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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, Q&A about tips and technique here

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TSVincC454
post Mar 11 2008, 11:45 AM

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its a coin
japanese coin that got a hole in the middle

this can prevent you from pressing the spray can too hard



This post has been edited by VincC454: Mar 11 2008, 11:46 AM
TSVincC454
post Mar 11 2008, 11:51 AM

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but if you see those tutorial on gunpla at you tube...
those japs use some sort like a super glue also to cover lines and then sand them...

they never use putty to cover normal seam lines...


Added on March 11, 2008, 11:55 am
QUOTE(noob4life @ Mar 11 2008, 11:51 AM)
Actually u dun need any of those... gundam kits are snap fit.  tongue.gif    You dont need any form of glue....

This being the reason is that you can remove the pieces later if u want to paint the kit... if u glue it then u cant remove it liao... difficult to paint...

But u can use putty or supah glue to cover seam lines...  AFTER you paint the kit then only you should consider gluing the kit or not...
*
he asking about super glue thingy because of covering seam lines...not because he dunno that gundam is actually a snap tight model kit

and also...usually ppl cement first then only paint the kit
cause cement act like a thinner and will remove your paint

This post has been edited by VincC454: Mar 11 2008, 11:55 AM
TSVincC454
post Mar 11 2008, 12:00 PM

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this method memang works one

the cement actually melt a bit the plastic and the extra will be out when you press the 2 end together...

and after sand it will cover the lines...

but you must add extra amount of cement

This post has been edited by VincC454: Mar 11 2008, 12:06 PM
TSVincC454
post Mar 13 2008, 10:23 AM

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QUOTE(chriswoo @ Mar 13 2008, 04:26 AM)
lol tot i post alot of time for this lacquer

but oh well not hurt if repost again to helps this guys

For best solution for handpainting lacquer are after primer it and painted 1st layer (Mix tinner retarder = ratio 1:3) then when come painting 2 layer u need to control your tinner paint (just put ratio 1:1 only) . For me after painting 1st layer gentlely then i leave it for 10 min for it to dry then paint 2 layer gentlely again then 3th layer time will cover all the surface without having the bottom layer dissolve.

i think vince need to stick this tactics for handpainting guide for someone use lacquer paint by dry brush. tested works great for me.

Most important thing is do not brush paint same area more than 5 stroke (must leave it dry for 10 min then only continue) that will surely avoid this problem .

Hope that will help you
*
i can do that...
but even if i pinned it later...people here still deja vu one...
they just lazy to do searching and all also wanna spoon feed one doh.gif

dont said me kukubesi...but think about it...what i said is correct rite
TSVincC454
post Mar 13 2008, 05:11 PM

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QUOTE(MechaHerc @ Mar 13 2008, 02:33 PM)
u mean this one
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


hahaha. i know its teribble hahaha.., it's my 1st time painting..  biggrin.gif

oh yeah about masking, mr hobby neo masking should do the job rite even i paint with brush..? i'm just using regular masking tape for this paint..
wat type masking tape in this pic? n how much?

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
thinner that 0300078(damn again ur nick doh.gif) means is not the one you show in the picture
what he mean is leveling thinner...yellow label with blue color writing...search at xl site for the pic

masking neo are liquid...while it really easy to use but it wont do a nice job if you want a straight line masking
you still need the yellow masking tape for it(like the one you post the picture up there) cost your around rm12 average and come in many mm size
depends on how thick you want

regular masking tape also can be use but not recommended as sometimes after paint...the tape can also pull the paint cause the glue on the tape are too strong...

using tamiya masking tape is the best...

one thing about masking neo that never leave it more than 24 hrs after apply it on ur kit...that thing can get very sticky and end up a sticky mess on your kit cause after long time applied it will some sort like melting and hard to remove properly

problem with tiny area to paint can be solve using a very fine tips brush...
can easily find this at time machine BTS..cost around rm14 tamiya brand
of course tiny place painting need a steady hand la...if you tfk too much...then cannot help lo whistling.gif

what thinner need to choose depends one what paint u use....this is deja vu mad.gif

if it write on the bottle the aqueous thinner(mr hobby green and blue label) - for water base paint

if it write leveling/ thinner only (mr.hobby blue and yellow label) - for oil base paint
TSVincC454
post Mar 13 2008, 09:41 PM

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^ cannot
this leveling thinner for oil/lacquer base only
TSVincC454
post Mar 15 2008, 11:06 PM

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QUOTE(boltguard @ Mar 15 2008, 09:41 PM)

btw, wuts teh diff between between white & gray surfacer? apart from one is paint & the other is spray .. tongue.gif lawl
*
you already answered it yourself biggrin.gif
both are the same..only that white one come out white and you can skip the white paint if you want to...but to me..its not really recommended and also to me white surfacer are useless...cause i still paint over it after i prime

QUOTE(pcomet @ Mar 15 2008, 10:09 PM)
Actually at KL where can buy those decal??
*
KL not much place got sell...
try here if you willing to buy online...their decal are the best and also cheaper than bandai official one

www.samueldecal.com

QUOTE(z3r0717 @ Mar 15 2008, 10:14 PM)
TM@BTS got sell them...
*
overprice too lol
TSVincC454
post Mar 27 2008, 01:05 PM

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QUOTE(temptation1314 @ Mar 27 2008, 08:16 AM)
AB - RM100++
Compressor - RM350++
Total estimated : Ready cash RM500 tongue.gif

AB is a must!!! doh.gif doh.gif

Nevermind, tonight I'm going brush painting and show my 2nd attempt... wakakakaka.... doh.gif lolz... I'm half awake....
*
this is not spam cause he at least provide with the price

QUOTE(MyKy44 @ Mar 27 2008, 12:59 PM)
Wat's this la temptation... Spam everywhere only.. Haha
*
but you are spamming...so watch it!

TSVincC454
post Mar 30 2008, 03:56 PM

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get bandai cutter the yellow one...cost around rm20-30 like that only
the best cutter after tamiya cutter

hardware one sometimes so teruk till cutting that time leave marks one
TSVincC454
post Mar 30 2008, 09:57 PM

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QUOTE(300078 @ Mar 30 2008, 07:39 PM)
one of the reason that leave nip mark on ur kit is tat the plier itself is not flat and sharp enough! Usually hardware shop one are not flat the space in between the 2 blade has a little curve which would cause nip marks on it!!
*
those tamiya side cutter are the best...it cut almost clean
but also damn exp..rm80+ IINM
TSVincC454
post Mar 30 2008, 10:31 PM

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of course...that the thing
rm80 better buy some decent HG la...than buying a cutter doh.gif
or better go eat victoria station doh.gif
TSVincC454
post Mar 31 2008, 02:03 PM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Mar 31 2008, 12:06 PM)
I know for most gundams i would prefer flat, but the thinig is I've never seen a glossy and flat patlabor so i cannot tell the difference. Most people use flat for Gundams so what about Patlabors? I'm just worried that making it look glossy might make it look abit unrealistic.
*
if you think flat just for gundam
then paint ur patlabor gloss lo
inside anime also gloss...somemore patlabor can consider as a police patrol car mah...so car = glossy mah
then patlabor also = glossy lo

easy
TSVincC454
post Apr 2 2008, 10:10 AM

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hard to get color then no choice but to mix
if you can buy straight then why not...make life easier mah
TSVincC454
post Apr 2 2008, 04:50 PM

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use leveling thinner or retarder to slow down the drying process

TSVincC454
post Apr 3 2008, 02:10 PM

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QUOTE(temptation1314 @ Apr 3 2008, 01:54 PM)
doh.gif Sorry if dejavu question again lar... just want to ask and confirm again.. Vince.. you can kuku anyway you like lar... my gundam more important... (lol) tongue.gif

Except tamiya neo masking and those liquid type ones... any other cheap masking tape is suitable for gundam??
*
you poking me like that you think im happy to see?
lucky i still doing my job ethically..if not i go delete all your post
joke can joke around...but never cross the line
TSVincC454
post Apr 3 2008, 02:21 PM

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all shop sell almost he same price of that masking
the only place bring this tape also are tm, tamiya 1u underground, afhobby and aunty lenny...all sell almost at the same price
and xl never bring any

TM selling supply not all overprice
only consider overprice are their spray cans...the rest are almost average price...
TSVincC454
post Apr 4 2008, 10:41 AM

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that because most of local shop only bring 1000 grade only mah

TSVincC454
post Apr 6 2008, 08:39 AM

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i told this last time already

only recommended to assemble once you done everything...u think spray on the runner are more easy and save your paint but you are very wrong

you waste more paint and also waste time as you need to do two times job.

and seam line are take care before you sand prime and paint...
TSVincC454
post Apr 7 2008, 12:36 PM

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QUOTE(KyoLee @ Apr 7 2008, 03:34 AM)
wan2 ask something..last time i grab a imej from here..dono who post it..
user posted image

according to the imej..i wan2 confirm..the black color weathering marker..is it water based?bcoz i buy seperately..not buy 1set..wan2 buy this marker and try the effect~biggrin.gif
*
think it oil base...and definitely not water base marker
TSVincC454
post Apr 7 2008, 12:53 PM

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QUOTE(Exiled_Gundam @ Apr 6 2008, 06:32 PM)
About Super Clear UV Cut, isnt is is suitable for non-white surface? Coz when i sprayed the on my MG SF Dragon wings, somehow they become powdery white. Not just me, one of my fren said this also happens to him. And whe I go to TM yesterday, there're also Super Clear (flat) but with no UV Cut
*
powder white or frosting is not cause of you super clear only...
this is can happen with topcoat

this happen when you spray it too close to you kit and also press the nozzle too hard

QUOTE(300078 @ Apr 7 2008, 12:47 PM)
the marker shown in the pic is the same i show previously!
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
in this picture...
left is water and right is oil(the one shown/used in the upper picture with exia on it)

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