Relatively easy to replace the battery when it fails.

There's so much chatter that battery power is so inferior to super-capacitor driven dashcams, yet countless millions of battery driven devices are being sold. Maybe it's the cheaper pricing, but not all expensive ones are capacitor-powered either.
For users here, does anyone have actual personal experience of batteries failing on their dashcam and thus ruining the dashcam?

Was it easy to remove the roof covering? Some pictures or explanation would be great!

Thanks, looks like you know what you're doing...

Hi, anyone done anything about the 70mai A800s heat issue? It gets really hot in use, but hasn't caused any problems yet, but it's worrying...

I am using the 70mai a800s, can also set video recording time to 2 minutes.

Strictly speaking, even if you use a fuse tap to power the dashcam, they can still claim that you are drawing power from an accessory line that is not supposed to provide this power. So it's not exactly "plug and play", it's drawing current from a source in the car that wasn't designed for it.
Strictly speaking... 😅

Try Kevin +60123298979
He has a place in Puchong, quite reasonable charges. But very busy, got to book a slot.

I have been considering putting in a CPL (Circular Polarising Lens) filter for my dashcam. It's not a cheap accessory, but I'm more concerned with the possible reduction of light in my recordings, especially at night.

Anyone using CPL have any comments or experiences to share?

For me, the very fact that the dashcam is recording continuously to memory every minute I'm on the road means a High Endurance sd is pretty much mandatory.
Especially when I'm using 4K recording which can get quite hot.

Not exactly.
Your SC can claim that you are drawing extra current from a tag which was not designed for that current on top of what the tag itself is supplying for its designed usage.
Like overloading a wall socket.

No problem.
Then again, I believe you can buy the stickers online too.

You mean you can't buy the Z40 front unit first, and add the rear cam later??

Well, technically speaking, a fuse tap to power your dashcam is not strictly innocent "plug and play". You are drawing extra power from a line which was not designed to supply another load. It's like connecting an electric iron to your home lamp socket and possibly overloading the socket by drawing too much current.

Does this void warranty? Especially if it causes an electrical problem? Which, with the large number of electrics in our modern cars, is very possible.

You tell me...

This post has been edited by kkm: Jul 14 2022, 08:40 AM

Recently my a800s giving problem. Rear camera not connected, if I re-plug, the camera restarts, still no rear camera.
Anyone else face this?