My current car have been with me for around 9 years 200k km, still performing well but many of the parts started to wear, suspension noises getting louder so i am considering of buying a new cars.

Spotted second hand mazda 6 2.5 yr2015 (some manufacture yr 2014) priced @ around RM78-83k (Ori Price around RM190k), in term of pricing its quite attractive.

any sifu here know well baout this car can give some idea if this car is worth to buy?

good buy but second hand value is not good for this car, thus you are getting it at only 70k

3years used car Mazda for sell losss 100K🤣

Mazda no good for salvage

go for facelift model, much quieter nvh

May I know the reason the low resale value? Is it due to expensive parts? And does it apply to all Mazda models? Or only Mazda 6?

If that much of loss, isn't it better to get those entry level conti cars e.g. 3 series and C class?

I owned a 2013 mazda 6 skyactiv. One of the best purchase decision made. Let go at 100k mileage for upgrade after 5 years. The car still rocks like new but yea the RV is not good especially those early days specs with lesser gadgets. rv is by demand and hence market price (willingness of people in mass market to pay). I hope to see this improved in years time.

But RV was never my motivation in purchasing car. For me just buy what you want and by the time for me to change, with good financial habit anyone can get to what they want instead of betting on RV to cover their next purchase. But of course that is just me and my opinion only.

Parts, yes it can be expensive, start stop engine battery is around RM450 and major maintenance following schedule is rm1xxx (below 1500 figure). But considering i almost never had any issue with the car, with proper maintenance schedule your machine shud be alright

This post has been edited by electroboy: Oct 10 2018, 11:34 PM

How much you sold it for?

Yes, if you are going for 2.5 the 19" can be quite hefty. Go for 2.0 for 17" is an option you may consider if engine size + additional gadgets on 2.5 is not your concern. 17" shud settle you for less than rm500 each even for good tyres like toyo (mazda 6 stock tyres back then)

Just below 70k, while market value reference by insurance companies is 89k

Thank you for sharing with us. I agree with you. Buying cars are just like buying any other things, you buy based on the affordability, disposable income, commitment, etc.

I'm just surprised at the low resale value of mazda cars. The depreciation is at par with those entry level conti cars which are more expensive (generally more expensive cars = more depreciation).

High depreciation cars are a bargain to buy from the first owner. If you are buying a second hand car which has already depreciated highly and hence saved you a bundle from the new price you should not worry about further depreciation.

The thing about second hand conti cars is that they are cheap to buy but expensive to maintain. The Mazda 6 is cheap to buy and also affordable to maintain due to its reliability.

No more lah, Bridgestone now 400 can get

800 can get continental extreme contact same tyres as c43 AMG factory fit tyres

The expensive roadtax is another reason for the low re-sale value for large CC cars

facelift model is the one with standing middle dashboard lcd?

that one selling around 120+k and not much unit available...

yea, thats why i am kinda shock when i saw it at first, thought that particular car got problem or accident before thats why low price,

but after searching, its like almost all other seller also around the same price only...

This post has been edited by david9412: Oct 11 2018, 10:59 AM

one of my friend says that he had some bad experience with mazda suspension, noise very easily. is that true?
so as a ex-owner would you recommend of getting a second hand one ?

roadtax per year is around rm880. for insurance, i roughly calculated will be around rm2500.00 per year, so sum up around rm3300 per year still ok.

i calculated civic 1.5premium as well(was considering too), insurance itself cost around rm3400.00/yr already (without ncd), sum up with road tax rm90, roadtax + insurance cost will be almost the same for civic vs m6.

19 inch tyre are expensive, 17 is cheap but for a powerful car like Mazda 6, I suggest going for 18, you would maintain the grip and traction and stability , also aesthetics.

The 2013 Mazda 6 2.5L was one of the cars I considered, having tested the 2018. It has the best drive compared to Accord and Camry, giving the closest European build feel.
Yes, the 2nd hand resale value is not as good as the other 2 but thats to the used car buyer advantage.
I believe with on time maintenance and regular driving, the car would not give much problem. Wear and tear parts are parts and parcel of getting a used car, so set your expectations and budget accordingly.
Otherwise, you may need to fork out more for a more recent model with warranty still active.
Lastly, avoid used car dealer, shop patiently and wait for a low mileage with full service records from a direct seller.

This post has been edited by dudester: Oct 11 2018, 11:04 AM

For a more spirited drive, there is the rare 2.0 Diesel. But was given the impression parts and maintenance would cost more.

Yes correct

actually i am more into that model as well but i think only 2 unit spotted so far selling around 120-128k , private selling from kuantan and johor.

whats the difference beside dashboard design before and after fl?

never buy from used car unless they dont charge you processing fees. only a couple of used car dealers dont charge, mostly these dealers are not located at those LOT USED car space.

just walk away if they tell u rm3000 proc fees, lol.

never buy used car before, why is there a processing fees somemore?

mind sharing which dealer doesnt charge processing fees?

Suspension is slightly softer , but noise vibration harshness most improved and the dashboard can retrofit android auto and car play soon

You might want to consider that

Also facelift comes with spare tyre , early non facelift no spare tyre

dont know, they like to charge u for fun hahah......more profit?

400 I belip must be chaplang tyre if size 19inch, but if 17inch maybe decent. My tyre size 225/50r17 is more than 400 for good tyre one. Lower tier tyre such as dunlop d05, goodyear excellence/nct5 can get below 400 but I wont touch such tyre. Rolevo and viking tyre also can get cheap2 below 300.lol.

But imagine drive more than 120km/h with those tyres. Scary wo.

Bridgestone tyres as per factory is that price already

one of the reason is it is out of warranty. Only recently the warranty was increase to 5 years from the previous 3 years

im driving that car, awesome.

got the ECU remap, super awesome throttle response and power (reach full hp at 4k+ instead of 6k rpm). i-stop shut off d
pedal shifters are awesome too. frequently play within 2nd (up to 80kmh) and 3rd gear (up to 140kmh)
deciding whether to change to 18" wheels to soften the ride and to save on the tyres cuz next tyre change is up ahead. 18' can change to 50mm thick tyres for better ride as the 19" is hard.
my friend had same unit, driven to 200,000km d. no problem at all, just usual wear and tear parts. (like belt tensioner, lower arm making sound that type)

only complain is the noise level is high, i've done some soundproofing on wheel arch and front floor to lower road noise. right now more towards engine noise. see when i'm free will soundproof the doors, floor and rear boot.

this car is a high spirited driver experience car, not like the unker camry/accord/teana feeling.
plus it's a 5star european NCAP rating. very safe

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 17 2018, 10:27 AM

i've checked with JDM chop shop, they hardly keep this model because very little problem.
infact i've checked with mechanics and they also say this car no problem

What did the Mazda change for the major service which cost below 1.5k.

If it is accord, the major service is at rm800, which includes the oil change, gb oil, spark plug, air filter etc. The spark plug is the most expensive during that service

For tyre, can survey around the bukit kemuning area. I have gotten a 235 40 18 at rm530 per tyre (michelin ps4).

Wheres most tyre shop quoted me at rm800 per tyre

i used to drive potong iswara for the past 15 years.

just 2 weeks ago i got my m6 2.5 year 2013 model ...milage bout 89k {full service record}

I got it from used car dealer in KL

at first i also takut pergi this used car dealer....always got cheating and so on

then i make some calls to couple of my friends and found one reliable shop , recommended by friend.

went there , test drive{some shop they charge RM 300----for me they never did}.

car was ok . no accident , no court case and no summons outstandings.

my car previous owner was some girl {born in 1986} saw in database records

and this mazda 6 normally has no spare tyre....but the previous already owner fix one

tyre 19 inch....was change last year on MAY... LASSA brand ...found the receipt in the service book folder

they did charge me the processing fee RM 1000 .

vehicle price is RM 79k

once my loan passed, they service the car by changing auto oil and engine oil.

before i collect the car, on that day, they wash and polish/wax it .

so far no complains on my side here.

Can u tell shop name?. I want to hunting michelin primacy 4. Hope not too expensive. Most shop I ask qoutes a bit expensive compare to similar conti size. But this time around, want to try michelin. Had use conti for few cycle, all finish very fast.

I think rm530 for ps4 really worth it.

Believe the shop name is oscar bukit kemuning. After several whatapps asking around, this shop quoted me the cheapest price. So change 4 pcs apl together

As a Mazda 2 2014 owner, I can tell you proportionately that the spare parts of Mazda in Malaysia are freaking hard to find!! and cos 2-3 times more expensive that other brands.

My Mazda 2 started giving aircond problems in 2017 with on time SC maintenance. Had to do minor rehaul on the aircond system for RM3000 (recond compressor, wash system etc). Now 2018 problem coming back already. Imagine your cost for Mazda 6.

For other factors:
- FC is so-so
- Sound insulation is bad for 2nd hand car. Vibration unbearable.
- Engine mounting cracked after 3 years
- Aircond parts costs a bomb
- Paint job is good, last longer and shinier than other brands
- Handling OK


Expect to add quite some extra budget to fix all the misc stuffs.

I'm still looking for a reliable and experienced workshop that specialize in Mazda but most of them will just chop you, including official SC.

This post has been edited by longinusshortleg: Oct 19 2018, 10:58 AM

Change the tires la, that's lousy tires! People put such crap tires because they want to sell the car. Downgrade to 18' so you can afford much better tires and sell off your 19', surely got people want to buy at decent price coz lots of people want o show off with huge rims!

Good info!

Does the regular service guide on your Mazda include aircon maintenance like flushing the oil and the gas? If not then that's where the problem is, coz most people neglect doing aircon maintenance until its too late. It's better to do aircon service every 40k km. I just did on all of my 3 cars for a total cost of just rm220, surely better than risking thousands of rm repair work like yours.

Trouble is, there are many so called aircon specialists who work by feel and agak2. Sometimes servicing the aircon there will introduce more problems than leaving it untouched.
Example: how many actually know how much compressor oil to put in, even before taking into consideration of the remnant oil in the system?

Well normally they should have a machine to do that. If you never service then surely it will get spoiled because the compressor is just like a small engine with small pistons inside that requires oil to work properly. That oil surely also will have its lifetime. So not servicing or changing that oil is like never changing oil on your car too, definitely will spoil sooner and you'd need to fork out thousands to repair your aircon system. I'd rather spend rm60-80 every 40k km to maintain it in good condition rather than spend thousands later. Anyway for mine, I think the workshop did a good job at a very reasonable price. After service, the aircon of all 3 cars immediately feel colder until can fog up the window. By doing this I never have any aircon issue/compressor spoiled during ownership of various cars for the last 20+ years. The last time I had to replace my compressor was in the early 90s when I was like most people, before I knew that such maintenance is necessary.

Is Damn simple but lazy ass fucks don't bother

You just vacuum the entire system for 45 minutes to check leaks , remove moisture , drain all old gas and refill according manual by weight

Quick Google will tell the refrigerant amount , once reached thst weight , done .

Good advice.

They will tell you:
Vacuum for 45 mins - no need so long lah..your aircon still cold right? That means no leak.

Fill gas by weight? Hey bro, can check the pressure mah.

Google? Bro, when I turned pro, there was no internet ok.

Pressure dependant on ambient temperature , just rule of thumb by weight is fine

Actually rcracer is correct, there's a weight specification stated in a sticker inside the car bonnet so the aircon man will fill up to that weight based on the machine reading.

This is a good info. Does your a/c sifu has the equipment for the flushing and weighing of gas?
Do you hang around to see how is the jobs done?

For just Rm60- Rm80 for all the proper jobs done. It is definitely worth the money. Mind to recommend to a/c specialist. Tq

Yes he has the equipment of course. Yes I do hang around when having my car worked on by mechanics to see and check what they're doing and learning some stuff in the process.

The shop that just did aircon service for my 3 cars is in Setia Alam, JMD Automotive Specialist.

This post has been edited by 6UE5T: Oct 21 2018, 12:32 AM

Sorry to hijack this thread. It worth to know that there someone charging a reasonably price for a true detail job.

Everyone should be aware of the proper way of servicing of the car a/c and not to be just taking the words of mechanic.

Thanks for the recommendation.

TQ bro for the contact, came at the right time..... I used to do it at Ara Damansara but the competent mech has since left the shop. So that shop now only has a recovery/recharge machine without a competent handler.

Wow. Impressed with your friend's unit skyactiv already 200,000km d. Just curious, a few questions want to ask you.

1. how about the automatic transmission? Still works as good?
2. How frequently do you change the ATF Fluid? [Recently SC mentioned that the oil is lifetime and not allow to change as it will damage the gearbox.] So any idea on
this?
3. Do you clean the valves? Since the skyactiv is direct injection which suffers carbon build up over the time. [Looking for walnut blasting in Msia seems no one is doing it]

I am owning the skyactiv unit and hope to keep the car for long time. Thus want to try my best to maintain it.

1. working great
2. 30-40,000km i think, must change la, now manufacturer getting greedy. mechanical parts will last longer if the lubrication is clean
3. nope, havent clean valves. but i'm considering doing SeaFoam on it at the moment
it's sprayed into intake manifold to burn carbon deposits in engine block. i've done it on my old car with 190,000km and when change the engine oil, WALAO the oil was literally like BLACK INK darkness. can get it at AceHardware @ RM 58
if want to do must do it right before service oil to flush out all the dirty things.



watch this video where he rejuvenate his old engine with seafoam and LucasOil additive




i've read that all direct injection cars will get the dirty valves as it's by design the back of the valve will get dirty.
but that wouldnt affect performance so much. walnut valve cleaning is in my to do list too.
saw on FB got ppl doing it. find in FB

my tuner friend told me that for SkyActive model must take care of the engine oil, will cause vvti problems if engine oil not taken care well. perhaps it's better to shorten service interval to 7,000km instead of 10,000km ??

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 21 2018, 11:13 AM

whats that AC service called flushing oil and gas ??

nvm, got it. thanks

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 21 2018, 11:47 AM

Means you just sold it this year? What car did you upgrade to?

Yours is pre SkyActive model. Maybe that's reason. I think current gen not as hard to find.

LOL My ex-Proton Persona never service air cond except the filter. It never gave me issue for 6.5 years.

If not mistaken, Mazda opened their spare parts distribution centre in Thailand.

Can get parts cheaper from there cuz they are SEA distribution centre

Thank you so much for your quick information. Really good. What is ur mileage currently?

Wow change at 7,000km? Currently im out of warranty and using Mobil 1 extended performance 5w30 and maintain 10k oil change. So far so good la mileage 80k d

86k.

get ur car tuned, i-stop turn off.
u'll love the throttle response, the current programming is very dumb, around 70kmh already 6th gear. no power at all

Well you're lucky. Personally I don't want to risk it.

Mind to share the tuner shop? Afraid go to non experience tuner.

PM me. I give u his contact.

Does fuel consumption increase after tuning as I understand Mazda purposely tune the gearbox to be "dumb" so to save more fuel.?

im a heavy footer so i cant comment on that.
my friends car can go 650-700km on single tank (RPM never goes beyond 3500). mine goes 500km cuz i like to overtake (sometimes go 140kmh, or maybe cuz use semi-syn oil)

overall if u can tolerate the normal slow pick up, then no need tune i guess.
but if your driving method is floor down a bit to skip the turtle pick up, then go for ECU remap.
yep Mazda purposely tune the gearbox to be below 1500rpm.
the ECU remap also remove the engine jitter when in traffic jam, can off i-stop, speed autolock (going above 20kmh)

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 21 2018, 09:22 PM

Suspension is good and superb imo. The noise from suspension when it's wet is a known issue, some info i remember from mazda 6 group i read before is that mazda engineer came to malaysia and scratch their head seeing this. I lived in tokyo before and with the amount of drops everytime it rains there no suprise this caught them in unexpected way when it comes to malaysia heavy rain. And then mazda 6 in early days are all CBU units so there's that.

Other than that, i would still recommend second hand purchase if the car is maintained well

I think just do the walnut blast, no need to do that seafoam anymore.

u did before ah ??
what effect does cleaning the back of the valve can do ??

Not yet but I know that should clean the valves perfectly. Effect is depending on how bad the carbon build up already. If bad then your car power and fuel efficiency should be more improved because there'll be more air that can flow inside like new again.

Alright, if you got find good contact pls share.

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 22 2018, 04:37 PM

share with me as well if able to find a person able to do walnut blasting. Found one but only does continental cars specifically. Japs no layan. :-(

i found this, never visit them before. they got walnut shell blasting, EGR cleaning services as well.
looks like they service a lot of mazda 6 and cx5

let me know if u done it ya, thanks


https://www.facebook.com/carproautoservices...hU5aTFw&fref=nf


can do these maintenance if reaching 100,000km
1. AC compressor service
2. engine decarbonizing + intake valve + EGR valve (do all these the car feels like new d, clear piston, exhaust, intake)
3. transmission filter FZ0121500, strainer they called it
4. engine mounting
5. spark plugs (if not mistaken is rated at 80,000km)

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 22 2018, 05:38 PM

Yup that's the one I saw too, seems quite specialist in Mazda too.

injection valve cleaning without walnut blasting method......

near to 40,000km already super dirty




This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 22 2018, 09:23 PM

I see. Did a call to them and they do offer walnut blasting. They even did piston decarbonizing. Saw their fb that they did quite alot mazda 6. Im planning to bring my car for walnut blast next up 90,000km. Perhaps change atf filter as well and spark plug change. Will let you know the results after done. Do let me know as well if you done it first.

This post has been edited by incredibless: Oct 22 2018, 09:41 PM

remember do ECU remap after nice service.
u will feel like driving different car. step a bit it's already 100+, no more sluggish feeling anymore.
just now on NKVE behind a beemer was thinking why he's going so slow. see my meter it's already 140+kmh. dint realize it until see meter

the ATF filter need to change as usually when it's due warranty is long over d.
outside mechanics might dont know service interval as it's not done so frequent (80,000km is 3-4years)

let me know when you're going

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 22 2018, 09:49 PM

Just careful on gearbox

Already one reported case gearbox start slipping after oil change , before that no issues.

sure. I will go maybe few more months once i clock 90k as currently just serviced my car. see if you want to go along :-) is in subang airport there. perhaps can pm me your contact and keep in touch ya.

consulted my friend (the one with 200,000km on it) what thing he use to service the car cuz his one tank can go 700km. mine only 550km.

so conclusion is a lot of things (my engine should be super dirty with oil deposits, so the whole car is not responsive, and not so fuel efficient)
this service interval i switched to Liqui Moly full synthetic + engine flush + additive (to reduce friction)

this is what i did with it, first spray Seafoam valve cleaner into intake and rev everything to clear valve.
then drive to workshop to ask them do engine flushing.

OLD engine oil (7000km) after adding flush and running it for 10minutes. like KOPI-O



then because i watched some videos that do flushing on cars that never done it before (run 100,000km never flush) they had to flush - drain - add new cheapo oil to run 2nd round (run 10-15min) then drain. THEN only add in LIQUI MOLY.
Basically DRAIN THE OIL TWICE if not the new oil added will be instantly dirty !!

this is the sacrificial cheapo 4L engine oil (new engine oil just run for 10min) that i added in after draining the oil.
pour new oil in immediately turn dark, dirty like teh O.




after that add in LIQUI MOLY 5w/30 and additive.
now the car is very responsive, can always feel the acceleration even step on the pedal a bit !!!!!

Steps
1. seafoam clean intake valve
2. pour in engine flush and run for a while
3. drain 3month old oil
4. pour in new sacrificial engine oil and run for 10min
5. drain 15min new oil
6. pour in new LIQUI MOLY oil and additive (MOS2), change oil filter.

so much better response. step a bit power immediately come

Many types of cleaning can do. Fuel additive, intake valve, engine oil additive (these are without opening engine top cover)

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 31 2018, 03:13 PM

Anyone owned a 2.2Diesel here? Mind to share ur experience?

I was stuck in btw 2.2D or 2.5NA

Very helpful to existing/coming m6 skyactiv owners. I'm getting mine soon and will contribute some hopefully useful post here tks everyone here😊

if u r covering distance u can get 2.2D if u r driving for short trip get 2.5. Diesel need to work with distance else the dpf will be clogged then u will have issue. Also mazda 2.2 need to use euro 5 for the fuel.

he went for diesel

wise choice

excellent info.
thanks for sharing

if got budget just do walnut blasting + engine flush and add oil catch can.

Hi. Anyone driving the Mazda 6 2.5 2015 facelift? How is the reliability, maintenance, and fuel consumption?

This post has been edited by Mr Mercedes: May 19 2022, 12:50 PM

You're looking for Camry I think

Mazda is fairly reliable no?

Lol, yeah it is la, nothing special

Got my M6, like the drive, hate the tech, issue with ieloop.

Got my M6 2014 too