im driving that car, awesome.

got the ECU remap, super awesome throttle response and power (reach full hp at 4k+ instead of 6k rpm). i-stop shut off d
pedal shifters are awesome too. frequently play within 2nd (up to 80kmh) and 3rd gear (up to 140kmh)
deciding whether to change to 18" wheels to soften the ride and to save on the tyres cuz next tyre change is up ahead. 18' can change to 50mm thick tyres for better ride as the 19" is hard.
my friend had same unit, driven to 200,000km d. no problem at all, just usual wear and tear parts. (like belt tensioner, lower arm making sound that type)

only complain is the noise level is high, i've done some soundproofing on wheel arch and front floor to lower road noise. right now more towards engine noise. see when i'm free will soundproof the doors, floor and rear boot.

this car is a high spirited driver experience car, not like the unker camry/accord/teana feeling.
plus it's a 5star european NCAP rating. very safe

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 17 2018, 10:27 AM

i've checked with JDM chop shop, they hardly keep this model because very little problem.
infact i've checked with mechanics and they also say this car no problem

1. working great
2. 30-40,000km i think, must change la, now manufacturer getting greedy. mechanical parts will last longer if the lubrication is clean
3. nope, havent clean valves. but i'm considering doing SeaFoam on it at the moment
it's sprayed into intake manifold to burn carbon deposits in engine block. i've done it on my old car with 190,000km and when change the engine oil, WALAO the oil was literally like BLACK INK darkness. can get it at AceHardware @ RM 58
if want to do must do it right before service oil to flush out all the dirty things.



watch this video where he rejuvenate his old engine with seafoam and LucasOil additive




i've read that all direct injection cars will get the dirty valves as it's by design the back of the valve will get dirty.
but that wouldnt affect performance so much. walnut valve cleaning is in my to do list too.
saw on FB got ppl doing it. find in FB

my tuner friend told me that for SkyActive model must take care of the engine oil, will cause vvti problems if engine oil not taken care well. perhaps it's better to shorten service interval to 7,000km instead of 10,000km ??

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 21 2018, 11:13 AM

whats that AC service called flushing oil and gas ??

nvm, got it. thanks

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 21 2018, 11:47 AM

If not mistaken, Mazda opened their spare parts distribution centre in Thailand.

Can get parts cheaper from there cuz they are SEA distribution centre

86k.

get ur car tuned, i-stop turn off.
u'll love the throttle response, the current programming is very dumb, around 70kmh already 6th gear. no power at all

PM me. I give u his contact.

im a heavy footer so i cant comment on that.
my friends car can go 650-700km on single tank (RPM never goes beyond 3500). mine goes 500km cuz i like to overtake (sometimes go 140kmh, or maybe cuz use semi-syn oil)

overall if u can tolerate the normal slow pick up, then no need tune i guess.
but if your driving method is floor down a bit to skip the turtle pick up, then go for ECU remap.
yep Mazda purposely tune the gearbox to be below 1500rpm.
the ECU remap also remove the engine jitter when in traffic jam, can off i-stop, speed autolock (going above 20kmh)

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 21 2018, 09:22 PM

u did before ah ??
what effect does cleaning the back of the valve can do ??

Alright, if you got find good contact pls share.

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 22 2018, 04:37 PM

i found this, never visit them before. they got walnut shell blasting, EGR cleaning services as well.
looks like they service a lot of mazda 6 and cx5

let me know if u done it ya, thanks


https://www.facebook.com/carproautoservices...hU5aTFw&fref=nf


can do these maintenance if reaching 100,000km
1. AC compressor service
2. engine decarbonizing + intake valve + EGR valve (do all these the car feels like new d, clear piston, exhaust, intake)
3. transmission filter FZ0121500, strainer they called it
4. engine mounting
5. spark plugs (if not mistaken is rated at 80,000km)

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 22 2018, 05:38 PM

injection valve cleaning without walnut blasting method......

near to 40,000km already super dirty




This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 22 2018, 09:23 PM

remember do ECU remap after nice service.
u will feel like driving different car. step a bit it's already 100+, no more sluggish feeling anymore.
just now on NKVE behind a beemer was thinking why he's going so slow. see my meter it's already 140+kmh. dint realize it until see meter

the ATF filter need to change as usually when it's due warranty is long over d.
outside mechanics might dont know service interval as it's not done so frequent (80,000km is 3-4years)

let me know when you're going

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 22 2018, 09:49 PM

consulted my friend (the one with 200,000km on it) what thing he use to service the car cuz his one tank can go 700km. mine only 550km.

so conclusion is a lot of things (my engine should be super dirty with oil deposits, so the whole car is not responsive, and not so fuel efficient)
this service interval i switched to Liqui Moly full synthetic + engine flush + additive (to reduce friction)

this is what i did with it, first spray Seafoam valve cleaner into intake and rev everything to clear valve.
then drive to workshop to ask them do engine flushing.

OLD engine oil (7000km) after adding flush and running it for 10minutes. like KOPI-O



then because i watched some videos that do flushing on cars that never done it before (run 100,000km never flush) they had to flush - drain - add new cheapo oil to run 2nd round (run 10-15min) then drain. THEN only add in LIQUI MOLY.
Basically DRAIN THE OIL TWICE if not the new oil added will be instantly dirty !!

this is the sacrificial cheapo 4L engine oil (new engine oil just run for 10min) that i added in after draining the oil.
pour new oil in immediately turn dark, dirty like teh O.




after that add in LIQUI MOLY 5w/30 and additive.
now the car is very responsive, can always feel the acceleration even step on the pedal a bit !!!!!

Steps
1. seafoam clean intake valve
2. pour in engine flush and run for a while
3. drain 3month old oil
4. pour in new sacrificial engine oil and run for 10min
5. drain 15min new oil
6. pour in new LIQUI MOLY oil and additive (MOS2), change oil filter.

so much better response. step a bit power immediately come

Many types of cleaning can do. Fuel additive, intake valve, engine oil additive (these are without opening engine top cover)

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Oct 31 2018, 03:13 PM

if got budget just do walnut blasting + engine flush and add oil catch can.