AFAIK,
1. Only the insured can cancel the insurance for existing car,
2. You need to contact your insurance company of the old car to cancel the insurance. You may have problem cancelling the insurance because they need proof of car transfer or they usually ask for proof of road tax cancellation.

When buying a new car and selling off the old car, you have two options w.r.t. NCD transfer:
3. days before selling your old car, you can "withdraw NCD" from the old car and transfer to the new car. Contact your old car insurance company and they will guide you. In my case, I only had to fill up a form and pay the pro-rated non-discounted premium for my old car. Your released NCD will be captured in the system and the new car can use the NCD straight away.

4. You pay full premium for your new car (zero NCD) like what you have done now. You can either:
i) do like point no.3 - but it's a waste of money since you have sold the car
ii) cancel the policy of the old car and withdraw NCD.
After that, contact your new insurance company and tell them you have NCD. They should refund you the excess premium paid. No need to wait until next renewal.

Indeed. It's one of the reasons high-rise building windows with aluminium rivets fall off.

Yes.

For my ride, the 3M installer only opened partially the top section, just enough to paste the tint film.

Now my driver's door panel makes the tik tik sound when I push with my hand and when I drive on curvy roads.

Guys, question about HIP again.

I received a few quotations from the Honda showroom where I bought my car last year. Second year V Spec insured value has dropped to RM66k-72k.

Only Liberty states Agreed Value. The rest either state market value or insured value. Should I be concerned if I choose the one without Agreed Value?

Liberty, which is not my preferred company.

Thank you for all your replies. I checked my market value online using the link dares provided, it showed RM66.5k.
Zurich: Sum insured RM66k, zero excess, ~RM1100
Berjaya Sompo:Sum insured RM70k, compulsory access RM400, ~RM1350
Liberty : Sum insured RM71k, zero excess, ~RM1250
Etiqa : Sum covered RM74k, zero excess ~RM1350

Based on the diagram provided by SMH, Honda says Agreed Value is 100% Sum Insured. Does it make economic sense for the 3 insurance companies to insure more than market value, if they are going to pay me 100% sum insured if I lose or total my car?

Mine was registered in Aug last year. So you are better off than me, especially considering yours is pre-FL (no offence, but later model tends to command higher price).

+1, IIRC the lower variants do not have VSA too.

I'd be cautious when it comes to verbal green light. I feel the SCs are worried about driving away customers, so they might anyhow say OK. We all know dirty aircon filter won't cause much problem (if it is really dirty, you'd lose the aircon flow anyway). If there is a need to claim, say, a blower, then it will be your words vs theirs.

Exactly my thinking. My previous Vios had market value of RM18k based on the insurance companies' online data base and I could not insure lower than that. When I sold it a few months after renewing the insurance, it could only fetch RM11k, so I had effectively over insured the car.

In the case of the City, the real trade-in value might even be lower than the figure derived, so I might as well go for the lowest reasonable coverage.

I've never claimed for lost of car or total loss from accident. I wonder how they come to the figure. But if I'm claiming for total loss, it means I'm alive and well so that itself would be a blessing. Who cares how much higher I can get, right?


The used car dealers will tekan you if you try to let go your hybrid to them. Heck, any car is not good enough to command the price we want, if we approach them.

My quotations are from Honda SC. I gave them a call instead of visiting, but that is the branch I bought my car from, so I just had to give them my car registration number to get the quotations.

How old is your car? My driving pattern is also similar, mostly short trips. My car is 11,000km, one year old. Battery looks ok as I checked with battery tester (state of health 100%, state of charge hovers at 98%). My last car battery managed to last 2 years until I traded in the car for this City. I have 2 dashcams in the car.
My FC is also 9-10km/L due to frequent short trips.

The battery tester can test the state of health of the battery. For your 12-month servicing, may I suggest you do it before the anniversary of your car so that it's still possible to claim a new battery if needed (12-month warranty for battery).

I once removed my battery to clear off the sulphation on the terminal. Only my clock got reset. Radio preset remained, probably because I only disconnected the battery for < 15 minutes?

To remove, remove the black (ground) cable first, then red cable. Installation is the reverse.

Do that note that the battery is much heavier than it looks

Can install those quick release or battery terminal connector to avoid issues of wearing off the soft poles.

Do you guys continually having to top up coolant? My ride is close to a year old, 11,000km. I topped up once when it was, IIRC, a few weeks old. Now it requires topping up again. Still above minimum line though. In all my previous cars, I never had to top up coolant as part of owner's routine maintenance, ever.

Does it mean your coolant level drops over time too?

It definitely depends on whether it's hot or cold when you check. Hot coolant expands, so you'd expect higher level compared to when it's cold. What I noticed is the coolant drops over time as I check it when hot and cold and compared to the previous recorded levels (hot and cold).
If it's lost due to evaporation of H2O molecules, then therein lies the dilemma: to top up with coolant or distilled water... If it's evaporation of water molecules, adding coolant will increase its concentration.

I was pretty alarmed during the first few weeks of getting the car as it dropped from max to a few mm above the min line. The drop rate has definitely reduced. All my daily drivers did not have such issue, including the ancient Mercedes W124 which incidentally uses pressured expansion coolant tank (yes, the coolant spare tank is subjected to radiator pressure as well.

As mentioned, the level drops over time which I find unsettling hence asking bros here whether they experience the same thing. Btw, you don't wait till the whole expansion tank is empty because it will mean sucking in air into your cooling system. There is a reason they put a "Min" line there. Air/oxygen brings corrosion.
And you will get more than max when the engine is hot, not when it cools. Liquid expands when hot, Sir.

If there is no internal/external leakage, the only way is to lose it through evaporation from the expansion tank (or spare tank as it's also known). If the level in the expansion tank can rise and fall, it means it's not air tight. When the coolant expands due to high temperature, air will be pushed out together with water moisture and that is where we lose water molecules.

I'm not sure how pure those drinking distilled water is. The only way I guess, is to check its TDS (total dissolved solids) and conductivity.

If there is no internal/external leakage, the only way is to lose it through evaporation from the expansion tank (or spare tank as it's also known). If the level in the expansion tank can rise and fall, it means it's not air tight. When the coolant expands due to high temperature, air will be pushed out together with water moisture and that is where we lose water molecules.

I'm not sure how pure those drinking distilled water is. The only way I guess, is to check its TDS (total dissolved solids) and conductivity.

As mentioned, I am seeking information on whether this small drop of coolant in our City happens to most of us here. At this low loss rate, it's unlikely to yield any results of pressure test. I'm trying to avoid having unnecessary test done because it will involve opening of radiator cap or disconnecting hoses - which may cause actual leakage over time.

I've owned various cars for over 2 decades and have never had to refill coolant.

The first time it happened, I assumed there were air pockets in the cooling system of the new car.
Thanks to you and others, I'm now convinced it's a normal occurrence because it happens to other cars too.

Battery water is supposed to be distilled water, but going by the price and how things are here, you and I know how subjective the quality is. In any case, I suppose either type is better than leaving it at the hands of SC technicians who for all we know, just top it up with tap water like how all outside mechanics do.

This is interesting, and worrying.