The Tecware uses standard plate-mount stabilisers, you can swap the stabs without removing the plate/top chassis, just need to remove the switch.

Well, typically, unless you're OK with Black on Black (which is actually Black on very Dark Grey), most PBT sets would not have black/dark shades as it's difficult to dye-sub a lighter colour onto a dark colour, typically ABS ones have such combo coz the lighter colour is a separate piece of plastic.

Have not seen any dark coloured SA PBT sets.

I offer build commissions. Assembly starts from around RM80 for the most basic one, of course, the pricing adds up when including tuning and tweaking (lubed switches, tuned stabs, foamed plate etc) as well as if there's any LED involved. You could always drop me a message on Facebook Messenger if you're interested.

Personally have not used the stickers type before, but I've used the film type before, it would not affect the lightning as there's nothing over the LED slot.

Also, according to some of my friends whom had used the sticker type before, given the minimal price difference, they rather use the film type coz it's a lot easier to work with.

It would not be in the way at all, to better illustrate the idea, I think a picture would do the trick. This was intentionally taken with various different colours so you get the idea better. Teal films over SMD switch over purple background.

Possible, but not ideally. Best is to get whatever tuning done to the switches before soldering.

Yeah, without the right tools, it's a bitch to remove the switch tops while mounted inside the plate. Not to mention because of the slots in the plate, it also causes the switches to be a little loose fitting within the plate.

That iQunix seems like a pre-build though. Around RM600-700 depending on where is it bought from.

TADA68 Minimal




What better way to kill time over the MCO period than to build some keyboard projects? It involves some experimentation of a new method to lube the switches without desoldering them. While it brings improvement over the stock switches, I still reckon properly desoldering, disassembling, and lubing before putting everything back together as the better way to lube switches. Also, only recommended to do this ghetto lube job for linear switches since you don't have full control over where the lube goes.

Meanwhile, in terms of looks, I just really like how clean and minimal the entire setup looks. Black case, Black-on-White keycaps. So clean you can eat on it.

Switches: Gateron Red
Keycaps: Black-on-White Cherry-profile PBT
Case: Standard TADA68 Black ABS case
Tuning:
- Clipped, lubed & band-aid mod Cherry plate-mount stabilisers
- Ghetto-lubed main switches (Dripped Dry PTFE lube onto the sides of the sliders without de-soldering, definitely not :3ildcat's somewhat crazy, spray-everywhere, mess-everywhere style)
- Stabilised keys lubed with Krytox 205g0 and switch-filmed (including right SHIFT, despite not stabilised, for a more uniformed feel between left and right SHIFT keys)
- Fully foam-padded case (multiple layers of anti-slip mat to make sure the entire space is filled, not just one single layer of foam)
- Stock firmware flashed to VIA firmware

Shameless plug: I build, customised, and repair mechanical keyboards. Contact me on FB Messenger if you had any questions.

This post has been edited by GRexer: Apr 29 2020, 09:29 PM

Oops, typo.

Probably a better proof-reader

Neoprene isn't quite compressible, if you really want to use neoprene between the plate and PCB, I would suggest going for 3mm instead of 4mm. Good luck trying to cut out holes on it to fit the switches and stabs though. A sharp knife and a lot of patience is required. (Patience that even I give up on )

Neoprene is good for in between PCB and case though, they are dense and heavy enough.

I would recommend EVA foam in between the plate and PCB as horns had mentioned.

Chisels too take a very long time. I ever went to the extent of trying to get a square punch, no luck getting it in the right size.

Does seem like it would be a tight fit.

Great job!

Well, it's REALLY likely because you haven't opened them up.

Those Polycarbonate top housings are like erm, virgins, once you open up, they stay opened up.

Doesn't really look like an actual Ganss to me, typically Ganss costs more. Looks more like built up from an OEM (while I don't really like the way this word is used in the industry, coz it's often mis-used, it's the easiest way to explain it) board. Uses Outemu supposedly hot-swap switches. And the brand is clearly written there as "YMKB".

Best keycap compatibility would be handsdown the Magicforce 68 (even a standard 104 kit fits, last I checked), then the RK71, and lastly, the AK33 (coz those 1.25U keys all over the board isn't helping)

Can't really say about the "bang per buck" coz, they seemed to be wildly different in pricing with the MF68 being the most costly one, but it's also one of the "more decent without too much work" ones.

Certain TTC switches come with black bottom for SMD support (one big gaping hole underneath), but the top housing does not support normal LEDs as there are no holes due to the bottom housing
SMD support.

It's possible, but, the question is, "is it worth it?", I would say if there's another PCB available that natively supports Kailh/Gateron hot-swap sockets, just get a new PCB.

There are 2 ways to make a normal solder-only PCB hot-swap
1. Use copper eyelets.
Pros: CHEAP and somewhat easy to work with
CONS: They fit loose, like REALLY loose, basically you can almost hold on to your plate and the PCB will fall off. Also, switch pins would need to be bent in a certain angle before inserting so they make contact with the copper eyelets and makes the switch/keyboard work.

2. Use Mill-max sockets
Pros: Solid connection, fits tight just like Kailh/Gateron style hot-swap sockets.
Cons: EXPENSIVE, might as well buy a new hot-swap PCB. Also, fitment is PCB to PCB basis, some PCBs work very well with it, some, might cause the switch to sit a little less flushed to the PCB.

Comparable? Can't say that GMK stabs are 2-3 times better though(coz the price is 2-3 times more). Won't say "Get C3 stabs" coz they are a GB item that's not necessarily easily obtainable once you missed the bus. C3 v1 stuck keycaps is a case per case basis, as horns already put it, just file the stab (instead of the keycap) with a nail file.

I would say Cherry screw-in should be good enough for most builds. Better than the push-fit ones since they are more secured on the PCB.

File, I forgot to state that "file the stab is better than filing the keycap as keycaps may cost a lot while stabs are easily replaced".

Keyboard commissions opened for June 2020

Hi all, am providing mechanical keyboard related services such as keyboard commissions (building & assembly), tuning (lubing, stab tuning) and repairs and am based out of Puchong.

Current collection schedule for June 2020:
Week 1, 3-5: Every Monday and Thursday (June 1, 4, 15, 18, 22, 25, 29)
Week 2: Tuesday and Friday. (June 9, 12)

Let me know if you're looking for some loving for your mechanical keyboards ya?

More details HERE

OK. That's some good info there. Will at least check out the VETUS first. Haha..

Glad you manage to get the DZ65RGB in stock. Though, in a hind sight, might want to ask KBDfans if you can top up a little for Cherry screw-in PCB mount, the ones in your picture seems like standard clip-in PCB mount. Also, in case they missed it, do let them know also that you would prefer if they pre-mod the case for the PCB (but might not be an issue for the V2, not entirely sure, it was an issue with the V1 PCB where 1-2 of the hot-swap sockets are nudging onto the case mounting posts)

This post has been edited by GRexer: Jun 3 2020, 01:36 PM

Build of Material. A bit of an industrial/specific term.

I do sometimes wish more people spend some time to understand "the need to build a custom" like you do. That's exactly the reason for going custom, to go into specifics into each and every detail, of course the price will balloon, but if someone "just needs a mechanical keyboard" and thinks that going for a custom build is cheaper than buying a pre-build, that's the wrong mindset. Often than not, customs would cost equal, if not most of the time, MORE, due to all the work done that can't exactly be done without going custom. Like lubing the switches first, specific plates and foam under plate, etc. Stab tuning is possibly still easy to do on a pre-build since it's only like 5-8 switches to desolder.