"If it's not broken, don't fix it"

Can always just get a set of keycaps to replace your current set. Can cost from RM30+ onwards. If you don't really care much of the backlight, I would recommend going for PBT keycaps for more lasting stems, but, as with the case of most PBT keycaps, they are not "shine-thru", some are, but very rarely made.

Of course, no one really stopping you from actually getting a brand new keyboard. If you do really decide to get a new keyboard and wants to get rid of the old Tecware with the broken keycaps, do drop me a message.

If you're looking for TKL sizing, I might have something that suits you, but I'm a bit unsure if your #3 "No RGB" does it mean you still need single colour LED? Or completely no LED is fine? #5 I don't really offer custom made cords, but I can do #4 mod into any pre-builts using a cable by changing the cable into a Micro/Mini USB port.

This post has been edited by GRexer: May 2 2019, 07:50 PM

I offer repair/restoration/customisation/tuning services for mechanical keyboards and am based in Puchong. You could drop me a PM if you want to discuss further.

Lovely stuff. Everyone else can call it rubber domes whatever they want, but it's Topre or nothing when it comes to tactility for me. Well, BTC dome over slider too.

I do offer repair services and am based in Puchong. Drop me a PM if you're interested.

The "hate" is part of the hype. If you know what I mean. They aren't too shabby, at the very least it still uses Cherry-style plate mount stabilisers and can be tuned to less rattly. The only real flaw I feel about them is the lack of keycaps to be replaced, not even talking about customisation, but, in case the keycaps break (they really ain't too high quality and there are already people breaking them due to the small tabs used to secure it onto the switches) there's really no ready replacements available. Unlike the more common "CMX (Cherry MX) style" switches where you can get cheapo keycap sets from as low as RM20+ to as expensive as RM1k+

I actually own one, it's really not bad, but I have desoldered those Outemu hot-swap pins and soldered in Kailh Box Jades.

[edit]

Double posted as the website was down when I clicked "post now"

This post has been edited by GRexer: Jul 2 2019, 05:57 PM

I don't, but it's an observation that the keycaps are a bit of a poorer quality (and rather design) by having the small tabs to secure to the switches.

As for how does it break, some people would want to remove the keycaps for better cleaning of the keyboard from dust and what's not, it could break during removal or during re-attachment. Not sure if I heard of anyone breaking it in use.

Can't say much coz I pretty much don't own any Romer-G keyboards but have fixed a few.

Haven't seen any 65% keyboard with Kailh Box switches being commercial available yet. Custom built unit seems to be the way to go. If you would like one built, drop me a PM?

As for your Tecware Phantom, switch chattering is usually a switch issue, you could just change it to a new switch, should have some spare switches in your Tecware box.

Prefer using Messenger (Facebook) since it's a lot more convenient to reply there. (Thanks for noticing me. )

If you're into Photography and have a lens blower, you can try pumping a few times of air into the switch. Sometimes it could be dust causing problems with chattering too.

I however am curious why would you feel the need to change though if it's working fine, coz that Cooler Master QuickFire Rapid was and still is a somewhat decent board. Of course, it had a "flaw" (for some, not for me) that it doesn't have any lighting.

Could always do tuning to the current board, swapping the switches, replacing the less responding switches, lubing it, spring swap it for lighter actuations. Sure, while it might still end up costing almost half of a new board, you get a customised, tuned experience that you can't get from a brand new commercial mechanical keyboard. Unless, of course, your next build is a custom build.

You could always hire someone to get it done.

I've used TTC Black with their springs swapped out to something lighter, pretty smooth switches. Their silent switches are actually pretty decent too.

1. The exact model you linked supports all types of switches as they are using Kailh hot-swap sockets which is compatible with all Cherry-mount switches.
2. Those are for soldered builds actually, mounted inside the switches and soldered into the PCB so you can hot-swap your LEDs.


Yes, in this case (pun unintended), the plate is already integrated into the case.

Worse come to worse, you can desolder the blue switches and replace them with otherswitches. Although, personally, between these Cherry MX Red and Black, the red is a little too light (but acceptable) and the black is too heavy (definitely not acceptable but I know some people actually love typing on them), if you are open to other switch manufacturers, I do find that Gateron Yellow is the best "in between" weighting between Cherry Red and Black.

Do you need the replacement service? Or just the switch?

Tecware Phantom RGB can only hot-swap Outemu switches, Tecware Phantom Elite can hot-swap all types of Cherry switches as well as Gateron, Kailh etc

Yes, I'm around, just less active in forum these days. Lubing the switches and tuning the stabs is considered the first step for improving the typing feels of a keyboard.

With a budget of RM1k, I guess you can get a decent build 65% or 75% with an aluminium case, but depend on which keycap set you go for, might still be within budget or slightly more.

Lubing switches increases the smoothness of the switch, quiets down the switch (most of the time, depending on the lube used). As for whether it feels lighter or heavier, it also depends on the lube used. This is something you probably have to try out in real life to catch the difference.

Not all plates are designed for switch top removal, definitely not pre-builds, so your keyboard would not support switch top removal. In actual fact, I think switch top removal plates are being phased out nowadays and frankly, after building an amount of custom keyboards, those plates really causes the switch to not sit properly in its place.

As for switch openers, there are easier ways to open a switch if you desolder it.

I do have spare loose keycaps, but maybe a photo would be easier to determine the font and what's not as I don't seem to see you mention the model of your keyboard.

Bent can still bend it back, broken pin barulah

Lubing would almost always be worth it, but, because the switches you have are already in a built keyboard, the motivation to desolder the switches, lube them, then solder back is required.

Any reason why you need the K-type tip? I have the Hakko Presto, while it's not my main soldering station (since it's not temperature controlled), I got the chisel tip for it which works pretty fine. The Kasadi 936 is a somewhat decent unit for hobbyist, unless you're intending to go pro and offer commissions(where I would say get the Hakko soldering station), I would say the Kasadi is good enough, especially when you pair it with original Hakko tips.

Not sure what were you previously using, but when desoldering pre-builds is a little more difficult as it needed higher temperatures to melt the lead-free solder, that, coupled with the fact you might over-heat the pads could kill it. Personally I won't pull out the switch with solder still in the hole but prefer to slowly get all the solder out before pulling the switch out. It make take more than a few tries. A good solder sucker is also critical for desoldering lead-free solder.

That Kasadi is decent for a hobbyist usage.

Which type of housing does the Kailh brown you have uses? I actually often re-house my Gateron switches into Kailh switch housings to reduce wobble so this is kinda new to hear. The Kailh housings I used were the black Nylon type though.