The mm dimensions are thickness.
One 1/4” x 5/8” (0.61mm x 0.81mm) for 2.5HP
One 1/4” x 3/8” (0.61mm) for 1HP
Another four 1/4” x 1/2” (0.8mm x 0.8mm) for 1~1.5HP

The cost includes slimduct, wall outlet, coupler joint, and end fitting. Paircoil itself about RM1K.
Grey color should be UV type while white should be non UV based on picture sent by my installer.

Yours is a condo unit?

If its landed, i would advice to avoid internal water piping as much as possible, if it must be in the wall, use a removal panel/tile system...

Cause down the road you will definitely have water leakages... the hacking involved will bring tears to your eyes..

Installation still in progress. Cost not confirmed due to I made some amendment on the installation.

20A is main switch same like those aircond switches, to control 13A sockets.
2.5mm sufficient for my oven 13~15A. There is 4mm 20A ready for hob.

oh i though 1/4x5/8 is the pipe size (coz they come in set and brochure writes them like this).

which vendor you bought from that sells loose?

and just asking how many rolls of inaba insulation tape you bought?

coz i think i have to wrap up the white ones on the exposed end and i only got 1 roll of tape.

landed usually just route to nearest exterior walls.

highrise is the problem as management don't allow simply route the water to outside. must be to a drain. and most drain pipes preinstalled don't come with any insulators.

I will need to start using then only can tell. Theoretically you may check with halcyon27.
Or you may check those high power AC unit, it should be sleeved individually.

Understand the problem it may cause.
Concealed part only small portion.

This post has been edited by shadow_fax: Feb 15 2018, 11:23 AM

understood the difficulties.

My next place I will be re-routing everything to external. For those internal ones... all the joints will have removable panels, cause majority of the leakages are at the joints, pipes hardly break.

God bless us for time being.
I have 2 concealed drain pipe.

One at the back as shown in photo. Problem occurs then may route a new drain pipe external, drain hole just beside.Another one at the front car porch.

Minimal concealed inside house.

1/4 x 5/8 is copper size in inch. mm is thickness.
It’s not loose, it’s 5M pack, but non UV. I’m selling.

You wrap UV tape instead of insulation tape on exposed.
All paircoil are insulated. Just the matter or UV or non UV.
I don’t have any UV tape.

Prevents teh ais mug effect (condensation) on the AC piping and drain piping. That is not healthy as it encourages mould growth. The pipes are individually insulated which is the correct method rather than bundle wrapped with one insulation jacket. In SG, doing the way we do, installers will get fined.

Also helps to guarantee compressor runs at rated power and does not overwork.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Feb 15 2018, 12:19 PM

And the lighting, hope it turns out good...

Downlight
https://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/...1297_EU/product

Eyeball Casing
http://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/...0269_EU/product

Eyeball Bulb
http://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/...8808_EU/product

Eyeball Bulb
http://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/...5208_EU/product

I'm using Dialux to calculate the lights. seems 4 12W 6" downlight can't even reach center of each compartment? have you tried this software?

I use this http://www.charlstonlights.com/led-light-r...ment-calculator posted by someone else at another thread.
Anyhow it's subjective cause it depends on individual preferences. Some prefer warm feeling some prefer very bright.

seems from simulation those 6" Phillips 900lm aren't really bright.

but in actual when i install a 5" in a room, it looks bright enough.

so i guess only way to find out is after installing it and turn on light. but this mean cannot shift anymore since ceiling already cut. unless can find a way to "hang" the lights and do a test run before installing in ceiling.

Position of lights more or less fixed.
1 switch for 2 lights, and I go for 5” instead of 6”.
I can still change to 6” with higher lumen if it’s not bright enough.

where can i buy paircoil near kl area? anyone knows?

And this shall be the final... RM2700

Paircoil RM1050 (balance 4~5m)
Inaba ducting RM550 (balance about 40%)
Labour RM1100

5 units piping installation all non concealed except:
- Living hall drain pipe concealed ~20ft at carporch
- Ground floor room drain pipe concealed ~7ft at wet kitchen

AC unit installation yet to include, about RM100 per unit regardless of HP using the same installer.


Attached thumbnail(s)

It's confirmed easier to lay for ducted installation vs concealed. And also it's easier too using pre-insulated copper. Also it should be better using individually sleeved copper, but whether we can "feel" it will be another story.

Mostly if not all would still use normal copper and insulate with superlon/insulflex due to cost concern. I'm not sure how much it costs to purchase superlon/insulflex, but copper coil probably around RM100++ for 15m length, and paircoil costs at least RM500~RM600 for 20m length.

It all depends on individual (owner), and the installer.