But didn't expect it to be this thin. Guess that after 3/4 years need to repaint it again. Coated unable to really reduce the chip mark. That is why for m3 I never opted for ceramic coating unlike my others car. I thought that my 308 and HRV lacquer paint already thin enough but looks like m3 is the thinnest.
If you're that concerned, apply film/wrap, cost similar to coating, but protection level better.
Anyway, with more cars and lorries and developments around, instances of stone chipping is going to be more than what you experienced years before. I'm so used to it that i don't bother about it anymore other than a monthly car wash. I also can't be so bothered about water marks and bird droppings developed down the road.
A repainter workshop that my family frequently visit is kind enough to offer us RM300 for a complete recompound and polishing with full car stone chip pathcing. So i go there once every 2 years for this service.
Was looking between new honda civic and new mazda 3. Love the handling of mazda 3 but wanted to know, is it easy to get spare parts replacement for Mazda cars? Sorry, has been a honda user for some time so not too sure for spare parts for other cars.
QUOTE(hamsterr88 @ Mar 16 2018, 02:58 PM)
ahh thanks!! nola.. coz i've only dealt with honda cars.. and their spare parts (2nd hand) is quite reasonable and sometimes can get cheap.. Not sure bout mazda lolx.. so wanted to ask befre i commit myself into a new car ahha Thanks for your opinion..
Just don't expect got plentiful supply of "OEM"/replica parts compared to toyota and honda. Other wise, as long as the car is officially sold here, definitely will have parts supply. Even very unpopular brand like ford and peugeot also can find parts, what more for mazda right
Hi Sifus, went and try Mazda 3 in puchong showroom (sadly no soul red). As I was driving i realise the car is not as insulated and was abit bumpy when going into uneven roads. Is that normal or was i being too overly sensitive? I read a review that it was intentional as they said have less "insulation" gives a better sense of driving to the driver. Apart from that, I am not a stickler for RV, but is it true that Mazda's prices generally drop about 30% for the first year --> is not the biggest concern but just wanted to factor in. Ohya, was looking at the HB =p. And i do agree that some said Bermaz not giving attn to Mazda 3, i asked the showroom why I can't see much HB Mazada 3, they cant answer too lol!
1st of all, what car were you initially from? I presume you test driven the high spec version??
You feel bumpy because of the suspension tuning. Usually, good handling cars will have firmer suspension. But, it really isn't that bad, or that you really prefer really damped suspension cars like those from toyota camry.
Your view on insulation is partially right. Those considering mazda cars will need to understand a little bit about their brand philosophy. It is not that mazda is cutting corners and lazy but Mazda engineers cars so that driver and car are one, meaning that the driver will be very engaged and connected to the cars. So you feel the road surface on the pedals, you hear the sound of the road surface, the body both light and rigid for on road agility, the suspension tune for balance and stability at speed. When you try a hard corner on a mazda, you'll get to understand this compared to other makes. But still, your preference apply.
But since quite a lot of feedbacks regarding the NVH, mazda engineers did start to dial in more refinement for 2nd generation skyactiv range starting with the 2nd generation cx5. 1st generation facelifts also have some little bits here and there to improve situation a little. After all, more buyers are getting spoiled
QUOTE(studentsurvey @ Mar 31 2018, 02:04 AM)
Just roughly checked with an insurance agent, they charged 2.5k for a 110k value =.="
Around there...unless you really manage to find an insurance company that can really go lower. For myself personally, i just go with berjaya sompo for the time being, as i still can't find quotes that are better than them. Some quoted almost doubled what berjaya sompo charged.
and no they dont drop 30% on the 1st year. more like around 5-10% per year.
Yes, it does.
The moment registered into JPJ system, gone at least 20% regardless of what car brand. Don't refer to 2nd hand car list price, in reality what matters is the transacted price.
Also, can i ask any Mazda 3 owners here how is the feeling of the brakes. Particularly the brake pedal feel. Is it pretty solid and linear pedal pressure when you press onto the brakes or is it that squishy mushy type of pedal feel. I hate the latter as it doesn't give the confidence when trying to stop. Another deal killer for the car as i have yet to driven a test drive unit yet.
DAMMIT!!! why is buying a car so hard.
Go test drive and play with the brakes on your own.
As an owners perspective, if the car is loaded with 3 or more adults, the braking pedal effort will require 50% increase....but my car is after all almost 50k mileage and 60% city driving, so my brakes are used more often. There are times in my mind of thinking to upgrade the front brakes or pads as the seats are usually 50% occupied 90% of the driving time...
One of the best brakes to benchmark in my opinion is the 1st generation vios, love the linearity to max. Missed it very much....
If can wait, just wait till the next generation mazda 3 with skyactiv-x engine with further improved suspension and NVH.
QUOTE(KnightSports @ Apr 5 2018, 02:46 PM)
That is, as i said unless Honda Malaysia brings in the hatchback. Then, those things can be overlooked.
the only civic hatch you're going to see is the civic type r, normal civic will not have hatchback option as it is not a general malaysian preference.
This post has been edited by wkc5657: Apr 5 2018, 03:00 PM
While this is most probably not going to annoy most people. I am not 100% sure if it is caused by firewall flex or just the nature of their brake master cylinder. After driving around, i can say that it does not really lack in braking power whether loaded and unloaded. 3 person including sales advisor in the car at the time i drove around, didn't drive it hard nor did i do a hard stop. But, in my own opinion it is not really my preferential feel and especially during emergency braking it will be very unnerving when you slam on the brakes and then it suddenly sinks further in towards the firewall.
Handling wise, very composed although a little excessive body roll for a car of this size. The car's weight is not helping i guess. Their implementation of lane departure warning is way better than Honda's sensing, i think it is audible rather than a shaking steering wheel on the CRV. Blind spot monitor is a plus that is not available on it's rival the Honda Civic. The rear cross traffic alert as well but that wasn't tested.
Not sure what is your type of brake preference, but i just hazard guess that you like it very grabby at very little pedal travel.
There's a short point of pedal "numbness" right after the point that you feel that pads are grabbing, but after that, it is alright, just not very linear. But rest assure that at moment of emergency braking, it is more than sufficient. I experienced a fair number of times, and some how with electronic brake force distribution system nowadays on most cars with VSC, the system seems to pump in more pressure than usual if detect very fast pedal movement/travel.
Wa....if this car excessive body roll, don't know what to say lor...but again it is preference to suspension profile. The civic is just that little bit lighter only, so weight is not the main factor. You may prefer the civic's response as you sit lower, likely closer to the centre of gravity, but getting in and out will feel a little reminiscent of the proton wira.
Please go try out the civic and share your experience Regardless of your choice, both of good cars on their own right.
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It is actually not a grabby touchy pedal feel that i am looking for. I don't need the pads to be biting hard onto the rotors and faceplant the driver into the steering wheel as soon as you push down on the pedal.
The thing with it is that it should have consistency on the pedal feel throughout the stroke. When driving it, you can feel when the pads engage which is why i say it will very highly and likely not be something that annoys most people. If they are lucky, they would not even notice it the entire time they own the car.
The problem with is it is that once the pads bite and you push down harder, the pedal stroke and feel of it is very mushy. It is not the braking force not being linear, but the perception of your brake input vs the braking force that is going to be the issue here. This is why i bring up the point of emergency braking where most people will just hop onto their brake pedal when it happens. Yes, the brakes bite and you feel it through the pedal stroke resistance at some point throughout the stroke, but the subsequent travel when the pedal sinks further (like it has 2 layers of resistance) is a little bit unnerving.
Again, maybe not everyone but it is certainly for me. Once you feel the pads engages, the pedal feel should remain as firm or at least consistent as more pedal effort is put in. Having the pedal sink further might and i say just might make the driver feel the car is not stopping even though it is braking at it's maximum efficiency. The feeling of it is almost akin to a brake pedal when the brake fluid is almost at it's boiling point.
It is hard to describe the feeling in words. But, it is something i noticed quite immediately upon pressing on it once i got into the car before it even moved off. To be frank, i had a feeling this was the case as i watched an episode of hot version which featured the BM chassis Mazda Axela and i noticed they seem to be trying to gauge the pedal as they set off into the gunsai loop on their individual impressions and it was apparent they did not do this as noticeably on the other cars that was driven on the same episode. As again i mentioned, it is not that the car is not stopping properly. But, it is just not giving you the feel of doing so against your pedal input. I believe a hard stop would most probably be more interesting to find out how it reacts.
I too like you think that it was something to do with the ABS / EBD modulator but later realized it is unlikely the case. Not all ABS / EBD cars have pedal feel of such as there are some examples that are pretty well done. It is as far as i found out possibly the characteristics of the brake master cyclinder or there are some flexes somewhere on the firewall where the brake master cylinder is mounted. Which is why this was introduced for the Axela Brake Master Cylinder Stopper
As for body roll, i might have exaggerated by using the term excessive. But, it does seem to have slightly more body roll than i expected given that GVC seems to promise a smooth ride by manipulating the power output of the engine during turns. Also, if my numbers are correct, the civic is slightly below 100KG lighter and only a 50mm lower than the Mazda 3 with the same wheelbase . Given the fact that it also had higher sidewall profiles it should in theory be worst? I don't know, i haven't driven it yet. So, it is not fair to theorize on it. But, i am basing my feel on the sedan version which is more of a direct competitor to the Civic.
I have climbed in a Civic before in showroom floors and it has pretty decent ground clearance. I'd say it won't be like a proton wira with saggy springs even though it looks like a low car with the fastback design.
So, please do not get me wrong as i am not here to diss any cars but just to share my perspective on how the cars ride. My hopes naturally was high for the Mazda 3 as i mentioned before i really really liked the fact that they decided to put the tacho in the center of the gauge cluster and it has a floor mounted accelerator with a sequential shifter done right. But, going into buying this car. I also had a very critical requirement which is not to have brakes that i have endured from my last 2 cars which i in one way or another dislike.
Be it Mazda 3 or Civic i choose in the end, i do give this car a two thumbs up and i would even say that it is actually beating the civic in many aspects for being in the exact same price range. I just wished it did not do the one thing i did not want it to do wrong and it would have been a sure purchase without even the need to test the civic.
So, don't get me wrong ok. I am here to make friends, not enemies.
p/s: here is the video, 4th segment in the video. Try comparing the footwork on the pedalcam with the other cars
It's alright, everyone has their preference and tolerances. Good write up anyway, learned something new from you.
Seeing that you can describe the issue to such detail, i understand your concerns. This arise the question of why don't the car makes reinforce that area since it has noticeable flex....
Anyway, 50mm height is quite a lot of difference to centre of gravity. Weight wise, i'm not too sure about the numbers given from honda malaysia's website which seems unusually low. So i looked up singapore website to compare both and the kerb weight is still at civic's advantage but by around +/- 50kg.
Anyone changed their stock 18" rims ? I think mine got slight dent. Can feel steering wheel slight vibrate when going high speed. Tyre shop say too little bent can't be fix.
Thinking going down 17" for cheaper tyre and more comfort ride.
Any suggestions?
Just go to tyre shop and have a little check, pay a little to redo wheel balancing. If need to, recheck the alignment at another shop. Mine also have slight vibration but not due to bent rims, despite going through 2 instances of very horrendous pot holes and a bad kerbing incident.
You can look for hankook v12evo2, quite good performance and refinement from some driving kakis in this forum.
Avoid replica (or sellers that use words like "ori cutting", "thailand/taiwan ori", "ori design"...etc. Just not worth the risk for their dubious construction.
Thanks bro for the reply. Just to check with you is the advanti rim you show good rim ? Seems quite nice..Are they reliable as per ori Mazda rim or better than ori Mazda rim ah ?
I got mix feedback from different tyre shop..Some say 1 is slightly bent some say two some say the slight bent no effect cause too small the bent and can't be repair..
Cause now I not sure my car is normal or not normal. Maybe it is normal for 18" rim to be more bumpy on high speed ? Can share your experience ah?tqtq
Instead of those replicas that taiwan is infamous for, advanti is proper brand, would be fine for normal use. Advanti also do some OEM work, so they have the know how to serve the industry. They licensed Enkei's MAT process for certain range of products. In fact, they even have a plant in malaysia. The storm series is quite well received because of the affordable pricing yet one of the lightest in the class. It should be equally strong (maybe better) compared to the OEM rims.
What happened in the first place that cause resulted your rims to be in such condition? Maybe you just drop by the mazda service centre to help you do a diagnosis. It's free anyway
I'm on my 3rd year of ownership, and still on the factory fitted wheels. It seems fine, steering a little vibration, especially during harder braking but i know that is mostly due to the almost worn off tyres the long overdue balancing service needed. Unless i driven your car, very hard for me (or other owners) to really ascertain what is the issue.
Any good and cheap 18" tyre to recommend ? the last time changed all to Michelin Pilot Sport 4.. costs me about 3.2k... sakit .. haha
Since the stock stabalised and novelty factor gone, the pilot sport 4 pricing has dropped quite noticeably. 225/45/18 can get around RM650 per tyre all in.
On a tighter budget, can consider hankook v12evo2, around RM400 all in.
Another tyre to look out is the upcoming falken fk510, very new in our market, pricing not certain yet.
any lesser road noise tyre recommend ? i heard michelin primacy 3 st is good 235/50R18 Michelin Primacy 3st RM579 225/55R18 Michelin Primacy 3st RM527
but with 235/50 or 225/55 can fit in for our car ?
also any other more budget option ?
235 could be too wide for the rims; 225/55/18 can fit, but your speedometer will be understating your actual speed by quite a margin. Just stick with 215/45/18 or the more common 225/45/18.
Not exactly sure about the performance of MC6 as relatively new and also very region specific product. But at least better assurance than those unknown china or thailand brands.
This post has been edited by wkc5657: May 11 2018, 11:12 AM
You know what, I'm experiencing the same sound when I head over bumps. The noise is louder when on a wet/moist or rainy day.
The sound is not prominent when its stark dry (or a hot summer day).
I plan to bring this to Bermaz to check in the next service and I'm only on my 20k
Is your behavior similar? I don't hear any "kruk kruk" when I floor the throttle. It is only when I go over bumps. The noise is more apparent when the weather is cold/moist/wet or rainy.
So could this be the damper top mounts that is hardening? It's less than a year and the part is wearing out so quickly?
QUOTE(KnightSports @ May 16 2018, 11:24 AM)
It is rubber, it is not wearing out really. Just that it is hardening and that produces some unwanted effects. Wearing out is where the rubber inserts starts to crack and disintegrate and then your bearing in the top mount starts getting hammered directly until it starts to fail
There are 2 possible scenarios with this issues when i went through the problem with a rather friendly small scale franchised dealer : 1) as mentioned, the mounts aren't good. In fact, after changing through warranty, i still have this knocking sound. Maybe the design/material of the mounts is just plain wrong; or 2) brake caliper play, the brake caliper housing is knocking against the caliper pin and the housing it self. The mechanic at the above mentioned franchised dealer found that out. After added a lot more grease in to the caliper pin chamber, the incidence of the knocking sound reduced a lot, but still happens once in a while. However, the improvements only lasted a few months and now it is back.
I was also given a set of coil spring protector/dampener to be placed at the top part of the coil springs where it will come in contact with the bottom of the mount. That didn't help anything.
So i really don't know which is the main culprit. The GVC/facelifted version did mentioned about some material and geometry changes on the suspensions. Likely they got it sorted out, but what are the chances that they will refit the whole set of suspension modification on mine despite still under warranty??
I'll still bring in for a check for warranty claim again. But if that doesn't solve it, i'm seriously considering to get after market front brake caliper set to reduce the knocking sound as much as possible, base on my experience of the above mechanic did with the brake caliper issue.
QUOTE(Lefty @ May 16 2018, 11:50 PM)
Yes using 225/45.. how is Yokohama fleva v701? Is it as noisy as ps4 and the stock Toyota tyre ? Is the hankook v12evo2 as noisy as the PS4 and stock toyo tyre ?
Based on european tyre labeling scheme, hankook v12evo2 has better noise score, so ps4 definitely noisier than v12evo2. The toyo is likely the worst of the bunch.
However, despite objective metrics saying that the hankook is slightly more silent, the tone/pitch of the tyre noise is more of a personal preference.
I think to set the "sound" expectation correctly, it isn't exactly a knocking sound. Its more like a squeak like when you're getting off the bed. "Kruk, kruk" is when the sound is made. Its hard to describe but I'll get a video recording if possible.
Its more towards creaking "kruk kruk" rather than a knocking sound. It does sound some rubber bushing/mounting that is giving way. If its metal, we can hear a more present sound rather than this creaking "kruk kruk" sound.
Or it could well be a absorber/spring housing at play. It only occurs when it goes over bumps.
I have the full lock squeak too but only when full lock left (I took this to Bermaz last service and it seems they only resolved my full lock right).
Alright, if squeaking/creaking (something like "ngeeeeek" sound), it is due to the front lower arm bushing. I got that changed i think 3 times, first one or 2 months alright, but after that, start coming back
If you have chance to sit in my car, you'll hear all sorts of suspension squeaks, knocking and juddering sound. I feel kind of hopeless now, start to even suspect something might be wrong with my engine mountings as i start to also hear some sound when the engine crank starts. Silently hoping that they will change the whole front suspension assembly to those used in the GVC version....
This post has been edited by wkc5657: May 17 2018, 02:23 PM
Is yours the pre-facelift model? I'm on the GVC model.
Noise abundant still.
How much is the original arm bushing from Bermaz? PM if required. Just preparing the right mindset before going in. Warranty claimable?
Yupe, prefacelifted CKD.
I'm not exactly sure how much just for the bushing, but likely sell as a set alongside the whole arm itself. Should cost about RM500/set, around 1000+ for a pair i suppose...not exactly sure because just reference from US parts base cost. But from my accident claim before, the billing price comes quite close to my estimates based on these type of websites.
As long as within the warranty period, definitely can go complain and evaluate for warranty claim. You GVC fellors are lucky, 5 years; we earlier suckers get stuck with 3 years warranty only....
So far what i claimed before : - rear light cluster - strut mounting - strut bearing - lower arm bushing - coil spring protector - bump stops
Feb 19 2018, 10:55 AM
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if based on previous Mazda3 trend lolx
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