i don't think there will be an obvious difference aesthetically from 16s to 17s, which is why MAZDA always jumps 2 inches but if you think 17s is enough then go for it. as far as costs are concerned, you'll find the costs more justifiable if they were 18s. comfort wise, it will be indistinguishable whether it is 16s, 17s or 18s because of how the chassis is tuned. it will be unpliant no matter which set up you choose.

not sure what you mean by "feel good" but if you frequent those speeds then my advise is for you to get the 2.0L instead because the engine noise of the 1.5L makes at those speeds can become very unsettling.

i don't think the stock Mazda3 suspension is adjustable (that is to say, to stiffen or soften at the tweak of a screw) without actually changing the parts like the springs etc.

could it just be a placebo effect since you asked the mechanic to "tighten" the suspension?

Suspension wise, stiffer and perceived built quality has been much improved. Gone were the infamous "knocking" sounds of the previous generation.

had it for almost 7 months now. what do you mean by "HP"?

nope. got the mid-spec 1.5. figured that it has less tech to fuss about.

you will be given the Japanese AP certificate during delivery of the car and in that AP, you will be able to see the year of make.

For date, used car dealers will only make reference to the year reflected on the JPJ registration card.

MPRO is a decent brand and if i'm not mistaken, they are associated with Autotrix and Ceramic Pro. By the way, who recommended you. the SA?

As for the tint, the car will come factory fitting with tint called "Skytint" - I find it acceptable save for the FWS, it is really quite bad so i just had my FWS re-tinted and leave the rest untouched. Just remember not to remove the original tint film from the rear window because it will definitely damage the defroster grids, just have the new film slapped on the original one but because of this, you will not be able to claim any warranty from the tint shop for the rear window film.

is your SA from Puchong?

there are indeed many things to consider installing on your brand new ride but let me just share with you (so that you don't get carried away) what are the things which i think you NEED to have:-
1) get at least the FWS re-tinted, the factory fitted Skytint literally does nothing to block heat;
2) coating is a must - to facilitate easier car washing (to reduce contact washes);
3) if budget allows, have the entire front of the car PPF wrapped (good ones, not the RM500 ones); and
4) have all the piano black interior panels film protected before you remove the stickers that came with the car.

the rest are pretty much optional.

yes, there is a Mpro outlet in Puchong.

I'll leave you to decide whether you want to take the combo package or just opt for the FWS only (like i did).

an obvious problem in just slapping another tint film over another is adhesion - they generally don't bode well with each other so premature peeling may be of concern and because you won't have warranty for the rear window, you won't get a free re-application.

the piano black panel covers the door handles as well.

Oh! before i forget. you might also want to consider getting film protection on the instrument panel and the infotainment screen.

Coating is NOT a must but is highly recommended if you are that type of person who likes to keep the car paint in pristine condition as much as possible.

Contact washes literally mean washing the car with physical contact (rubbing etc). One of the effects of having your car coated is that it will provide a hydrophobic layer that will prevent particles from adhering to the paint surface and making car washes much easier. For example, fresh tree saps or bird poop can be removed without much agitation. The more you do contact washes, the higher the chance you will introduce swirl marks / scratches onto the paint surface.

PPF wrap to cover the front hood, side fenders and front bumper.

Yes, i bought the films online and then applied them myself but be caution though because if you have no prior experience in applying TPU films then i advise you not to attempt. Come and join us in the Mazda group after you have collected your car, there is a local seller who sells the films and also provide application so fuss free but be prepared to splurge around RM180.00.

https://www.facebook.com/amoi.auto

You can contact them at their facebook page.

if comfort is the first thing you need to check off in your list then the Mazda3 may not be for you and definitely not for your parents. that rear torsion beam set up isn't exactly comfort orientated.

i think majority of Mazda3BP owners have at least their FWS re-tinted because the factory fitted Skytint on the FWS is rubbish. You would want to look for a high IRR% rating tint instead of a low VLT%. Darker tint doesn't necessary mean higher heat rejection.

the 1.5 variant doesn't come with keyless entry. Keyless start yes, keyless entry no.

i think someone installed the rear parking sensors for RM500.00 at GS Accessories (Mazda's Authorized Associates).

why are you asking others about the most popular color choices instead of asking yourself what color you favor more

there's no such thing as oddities when it comes to the Mazda3. the fact that you choose to buy the Mazda3 over its other more sensible competitors is already an odd choice in itself.

just pick the one that soothes your eye and in your opinion would be possible for you to maintain. for example, if you do not have access to a car wash at your convenience then avoid white or black.

Polymetal Gray ranks behind Soul Red, Machine Grey and Jet Black.

unless you are planning to have your car wrapped in exotic colors then chances are no one will be able to notice you on the road. you'll just be another Mazda3 owner.

the sedan looks revered in Sonic Silver.

here you go.

1. these i-stop disablers have been in the market for a long time, they basically work by cutting off power to the ecu that controls the activation of i-stop. nothing fancy but if i were you, i'd save the money and go through the "hassle" in pressing the i-stop button every time i start the car.

2. i-stop activation drains battery in the long run because it essential stops and restarts your engine. the only downside (that is significant) will be the cost of replacement of battery and batteries that support "i-stop" are relatively much more expensive than your conventional batteries. close in the second place would be the wear and tear of the alternator.

i-stop works no matter what battery you use, the only factor is whether the battery will last or not.

if you use a battery that does not support i-stop and you utilize the i-stop function, chances are that your battery will be dead quicker.

May God have mercy on your condenser/compressor.