Bro Epo, lupa nak tanya at last thread...

Coolant Toyota you beli berapa rege dan di mana?
Dan you pakai berapa botol?

Perghh!! Dia punya statement macam matter-of-fact....
Tapi racun dia...huhuhu

Anyone went for this Merdeka Special promotion?
Would like to know if the discounts are real or just classic gimmick (i.e. hike up price before giving discounts).

Just as I suspected. Classic gimmick; harga kasi naik KAW KAW, and then bagi deep discounts...make them look so awesome! *puiii*

Thanks @superhero_123 for confirming this.

Thanks Bro Epo, for the good info.

Do keep us posted with your project.

Thanks.
Am keen to learn from you because you are very thorough and informative with your explanation

Btw, where are you from?
If you're living around PJ area, perhaps we can meet up for tea also...then can chit chat.
I'll invite a few other Forte kaki to join us also.

This post has been edited by rompers: Aug 13 2017, 01:27 AM

No bro.
Check thoroughly first via a trusty and experienced mechanic.

By order of precedent, check:

1) Engine Oil Level since last service - At times, it may be that the engine oil wasn't topped-up to the required level, hence giving the illusion of oil leak.
2) Oil Sump - Check if there are any leaks via the sump gasket, drain plug, etc.
3) Oil Filter Socket - Check if there are any signs of oil seepages around the connection.
4) Engine Top/Valve-Rocker Cover - Visually inspect if there are any seepages.
5) Assess the tail-pipe area - With your engine is on idle and on revs, inspect to see if there are noticeable black smoke emitted. Usually, black exhaust smoke is a sign of engine oil seeping into your cylinder valves via worn piston rings. Make sure your engine is on nominal operating temperature (not cold start) in order to be sure if there are black smoke.

Always keep in mind that an engine overhaul is the last resort for any engine issues.

P/S - If I've missed out on any other key areas, I hope other forumers here will be kind enough to add-on to the check-list above.

You're quite right.

Although I must say (to an untrained eye) Blue, Grey and White smoke may be difficult to differentiate.
I guess the best way might be for one to place a piece of paper/rag close (but not too close to obstruct, lest the engine gets suffocated by exhaust back pressure) and observe for any noticeable oil stains.

Then again, the exercise above is not very effective if the oil leak (into the compression chamber) is minimal.

Anyhow, best to send the vehicle to a good mechanic for a proper diagnostic (e.g. Compression test, etc.).

I believe all the items in the check-list can be checked together with any trust worthy friend/mechanic as it involves visual checks.
Only thing is, you may want to take your car out for undercarriage & engine cleaning so that you can detect any fresh oil seepages/leak.
Another way is for you to place a few pieces of newspaper under your car whilst parked overnight (repeated over a few days), and observe if there are any oil stains on the newspaper sheets.

Yes, my Forte's headlight beam is very much the same (except that the centre spot is not as intense compared to your photo).
I believe it should all be the same, under E-Code or SAE standards (i.e. Dipped Beam, Assymetrical Beam Pattern).

P/S - Sorry for not attaching a photo. I keep getting an error whilst trying to attach here.

Do you mean to say that the LEDs are better in terms of "reduced glare to oncoming motorists" or?

Between 2 headlamps means,

1) HID on one side vs LED on the other?
2) or HALOGEN vs LED?

1) This issue seems to be pretty common/normal with our Fortes, mainly due to temperature (e.g. weather) fluctuations causing the gaps between panels to widen or contract. If it is an absolute bother, you can try auto-foaming those areas of concern (but I wouldn't recommend it if it involves areas where the Seat Belts/Air-Bags are, as you wouldn't want anything to affect the safety aspects of the vehicle).

2) Sounds like worn Absorber mountings to me, or perhaps worn/dried out Stabilizer Bar Bushes, or both.

3) Perhaps detailed photos of the damaged area would allow us here to provide a better assessment?

So would you say, based on your own experience:

HALOGEN
Advantages:
1) No glare on oncoming road users.
2) Lower cost-per-bulb (for generic brands; could also be a disadvantage considering the short life-span).
3) Almost instantaneous optimum operating range.

Disadvantages:
1) Short life-span.
2) Higher operating temperature.
3) Reduced light intensity/light-throw/distance (for generic brands).


HID
Advantages:
1) Increased life-span.
2) Lower operating temperature.
3) Increased light intensity/light-throw/distance (when properly installed).
4) Aesthetics (subjective towards individual users).

Disadvantages:
1) Tendency to cause glare upon oncoming traffic (especially if retrofitted incorrectly).
2) High initial cost (also requires some modification towards existing system).
3) Higher cost-per-bulb (could also be an advantage taking the increased life-span into consideration).
4) Non JPJ compliant (for retrofits).
5) An increase in time required to achieve the optimum operating range.


LED
Advantage:
1) Increased life-span.
2) Lower operating temperature and low energy requirement.
3) Instantaneous optimum operating range.
4) Cost-effective (subjective to brand and model of system).
5) Reduced glare upon oncoming traffic (comparable to Halogens?).

Disadvantage:
1) Reduced light intensity/light-throw/distance (comparable or less effective against Halogens?).
2) Difficulty in securing a reliable/quality product from current market-place (where branded models are extremely expensive).

Would you agree with my summary above?
Do you have any other salient points to add onto the list?
Would you be able to provide your feedback onto the listed-points which ends with a question mark?

Thanks.

Great insight!

From the looks of things (photographic results), I'd say the 6000K LED Bulb seems to deliver the best outcome. Do correct me if I am wrong.

So, in your opinion..what would you opt for the Forte, going forward?
OSRAM LaserLight Halogens vs LED 4300K vs LED 6000K?

Where possible, kindly share the cost breakdown for the LED Kits (both 4300K & 6000K) please.

This post has been edited by rompers: Aug 25 2017, 05:04 AM

It's okay to use 215/50R17 tyres on the stock rims.
Only minor issue is that the front tyres may rub against the inner tyre well during full-lock turns (and depending on vehicle load).

IMHO, better to take Craxors' advice using Manual shifting.

Reason: Imagine this; you're driving uphill and there's an opportunity to overtake. You push the accelerator pedal, TCU downshifts, engine jerks forward due to engine mounting play/loosened, your gear lever drops to N. God bless.

*just saying, with plenty of touchwood on my part*

Engine Oil capacity = ~3.7 Litres

"Cit cit" sound?
Based on your description, highly likely could be your V-Belt (and/or Belt Tensioner). To be sure, you could try asking someone for help to press the accelerator pedal while you listen carefully at the Engine Bay.

What does DYC mean ya?
I tried looking it up online, but couldn't find the meaning to that acronym.
The closest was DYAC = Damn you auto correct

Try checking the fuses on your fuse box.
Also, could be a faulty switch; which is why I always ensure that I wipe the door switches dry whenever there's contact with water and on rainy days, I'll use tissue paper to cover them up before opening the car door to get out Yes, it's somewhat tedious...