so during idle, does the air conditioning running at normal mode ? didn't notice this . also didn't pay attention to the bose speakers. Was too into the performance of the car. Also didn't notice that  there was a 'head up display'.

Yeah man, and using paddle or B mode to increase regen was quite fun and felt good when it charges up your hybrid battery so during red light the engine is completely off. No sound and harsh vibration at all.

I use it only for stop and go traffic so I don't need to slam on the brakes, which is doubly annoying...

For normal driving I much prefer D, because like you said the sudden loss of inertia is quite jarring, like someone using a rubber band to hold your car back  

how is the highway drive? saw many youtubers saying struggling to reach 160km/h.

I live in Penang so the stop and go traffic you have to switch lanes frequently, so ACC will totally suck here where people just come into your lane suddenly...

Best fuel consumption is 18.3km/L 90% city driving and 10% "highway" (Penang bridge)

Here comes all the complaints about steering rack issues by the owners:

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=1044996390687835

I think you'll need to join the FB group to read the content?

It's not the battery weight only, it's the engine. RS using NA-based Atkinson engine that is VERY efficient in fuel efficiency BUT has noisy and  weaker horsepower than even NA-based Otto cycle engine (normal engine). Then the otto engine added turbo in to increase even more horse power and torque than NA otto cycle engine.

So while both using 2.0 engine, RS NA (natural aspirated without turbo) engine can never match Otto-cycle turbo engine of 1.5T CRV in term of horsepower and torque once RS's Atkinson engine clutched in directly to the wheel above 110Km/h. Below about 110km/h, RS will mostly engage the electrical motor to the wheel thus the super smooth and strong torque coming directly from the motor with engine mostly activated to charge the battery rather than engage directly to wheel.

so better to get turbo version? but i dont want AWD ler. Also the wood trim like old ah pek car. 

If you constantly run LONG distance at highway MOST OF THE TIME with speed ABOVE 110km/h, then turbo might be the better option.

However there is a misleading condition when ppl say when using mostly highway, turbo better becoz turbo is better for highway run ONLY with the ABOVE conditions.

However if you spend a lot of time in City as well AND using only short distance highway like Klang Valley's Kesas, NVKE (from Klang to Damansara, etc), and run mostly at relaxed driving speed of 110km/h and below, by all means RS with it's full specs are the best. Occasional speed of 140km/h ok lar but when relaxed casual drive of 110km/h below, RS is better coz it will keep switch to EV, then engine turn on to charge....then switch back to EV. Generally motor drive and ecvt smooth acceleration all the way, very fuel efficient with strong torque at that speed and below.

If you concentrate only on fuel savings and efficiency AND long distance high speed highway run, then RS tak berbaloi.

IMO, when you buy Honda eHev, half is about fuel efficiency, another half is the semi EV driving experience you get with Honda eHev.

Honda eHev hybrid setup although are similar to Toyota Synergy in fuel efficiency, are quite drastically different in driving experience.

While Toyota Hybrid mostly engage motor (full EV) below 40km/h, it is mostly an engine assisted by motor drive with the very efficient planetary gear to switch between engine and motor. After 40km/h, it will generally be engine engaging the wheel assisted by motor with with complex switch managed by planetary gear. Top notch in fuel efficiency and much lesser gear maintenance required for the hybrid system vs Honda eHev.

Our eHev will mostly engage motor to wheel below 110km/h. So technically you are getting full EV driving experience at low and mid torque with motor directly engaged to the wheel below 110km/h. Engine are mostly there to assist charging the battery and motors especially during harder acceleration. It is only when you go above 110km/h, the engine will directly clutch in to the wheel. (Note : I believe below 110km/h, occassionally engine will also clutch in when going at higher end limit there and doing hard acceleration).

Of course it can't compare to pure EV, Honda seems to control the acceleration to gradual acceleration increment rather than Tesla G-Force type of full acceleration. Engine noise and vibration also makes it uncomparable to pure silent EV drive BUT the smoothness of eCVT acceleration (only make possible as with electrical motor), the torque strength with motor engaged to wheel is for me, way ahead in comfort vs normal CVT with engine acceleration. The micro vibration of motor even with the noiser engine (much muted in CRV and Civic) is much better than Turbo CRV.

You have to drive RS for at least 15 minutes and then immediately drive turbo CRV to feel the difference in vibration tho...Just like selecting LED TV, lower cost TV ok in resolution BUT when you put it side by side with higher end wan, then you straight away see the drastic quality difference between 2 of them but when use alone, still very good wan.

Value for money, we can't deny Turbo CRV is better with the drastic price increase of RS setup but you can't put monetary value on the semi EV experience that you can get with RS eHev. Just my own 2 cents.

When cruising when you feet release on the pedal, it can release engine clutch and switch back to EV but with only ultra small 1.3KW battery, with high speed, it practically deplete the battery in very short time. But in general, it will still be engine clutch in after 120km/h. At 110km/h below, it will be mostly motor with occassional engine clutch in (I think) especially during hard acceleration.

Ya, I am also wondering, initially I heard it is only up to 90km/h, then below 110km/h still got. Now you say 120km/h also got. Well, better then for eHev owners.

Where do you guys stick the RFID tags? I saw ppl posting on number plates but not sure about CRV.

I stick on my windscreen for my current car, but heard metallic tinted films would cause interference?

Metallic based tints can cause RFID signal interference. So no windscreen sticking if you use metallic-based tint.

Another official place to stick is on the middle of left (passenger) headlamp. At least 5cm from any metal parts.
That is where I placed all my RFID coz I used metallic-based sputter tints for all my cars.

What brand of tint and range that you use, based on the brands and range, we should know?

Not familiar with this tint ler..

But the name 3M carbon already says it....most likely carbon tint, carbon tints are usually darker in colour vs other tint.
So extremely likely NOT metallic. Can put rfid on left top side of windscreen.

Anyway I prefer to put on headlight, not just becoz of my preference for metallic-based tint but I am more likely to change windscreen over the years vs headlight coz I travel on highway everyday. Almost all my cars' windscreen broke at least once already but headlight, none of the car change it yet (crossed finger, no front impact that damage the headlights yet).

I installed it because my SA said there have been a couple of recent cases where warranty repairs were denied by HM corporate because customers installed dashcam on their own outside, and the hybrid RS has a more complex circuitry so it's better to err on the safe side.

It was RM1149 including installation and they tap it into the fuse so it has parking standby recording, which gets triggered when the G-force sensor detects significant movement. TBH I installed it for peace of mind since I was going to install a third-party dashcam into the fuse and that idea made me nervous since this is a new car.

The only downside of this Honda dashcam (aside from price) is that it's Full HD (1080p) when other aftermarket ones are actually 4K at this day and age.

The app is okay/usable since other Chinese dashcams like 70Mai and DDPAI have bad apps anyway. The app looks simple but is quite functional, it was easy to view front/rear footage and also to pull specific day's worth of footage out. It was better than the DDPAI app IMO (my old dashcam was DDPAI) because the DDPAI app makes you scrub manually to find the footage you want but the app here shows you based on trip.