Woooo...I too malas to submit to various banks. LOL~ Oklah the rate for me. Not too picky since loan approved as I have other commitments under my name and was concerned it will not go through.

sorry out of topic a bit ,

should i get bezza X or persona standard

why not ask Perodua or Proton?

Hi all, is that true that buying a brand new bezza wont get front winscreen tinted for security reason ? You’ll only get front and rear side windows and rear big screen. It is unacceptable that they cant simply put the blame on security film for not be able to break the windscreen for emergency because most new car only get normal tinted film instead of security anti-shattered film !!
And yet they gave away those ray-tech promo voucher to you where you only get to use when u buy from from them all full car tinted instead only the front big windscreen where they have left out un-tinted !! This is ridiculous !!
Does anyone are have such issue with perodua?
Need Help !!

This post has been edited by holyknight: Oct 18 2017, 02:39 PM

My advance version do come with security tinted (sahara x with 5 years warranty card) for all windows, front and back windscreen. My SA didn't give me any promo voucher and the tinted is done I believe direct from factory. By the way what version of bezza you bought?

Mine premium X comes with solar and security window film tint for all windscreen include front n rear side window, direct from manufacturer.

This post has been edited by jusbella: Oct 18 2017, 05:06 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

That's big difference on the interest rate!

30k / 3.45% / 4 years / PBB
domo_kun

I guess only advance version get the best goodie lol

What is your model ?

-edited-

This post has been edited by cheerybell: Oct 21 2017, 09:22 PM

total difference of 1k+- interest

Be aware of auditory masking. As you silence parts of the car, other parts will "become much louder". Take for example we are talking outdoors at a cafe located at a busy street with A LOT of traffic. At this point in time we speak loud enough for each other to be heard. As time goes by, the traffic disappears. Now we find that we are actually talking very loudly due to the silence of the street. Our loudness was masked by the 'background traffic noise'.

Same goes with soundproofing, at the end of the day if you are successful in reducing sound here and there, you will 'find' that there will be 'louder sounds'.

I have DIY soundproof on my bezza quite acceptably. Now i find the engine to be quite loud, and can literally hear the injectors 'tick' during running and dead silence during fuel-cut situation (above 60km/h let go pedal and real-time fuel meter goes to 99.9km/l) but the engine is actually not that loud and it was not noticeable in the past, just that now the rest of the car is pretty silent... so....dammnit need to visit a pro to get the firewall done AND after that i'm pretty sure the AC motor and vents will be too loud.

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Oct 19 2017, 09:10 PM

interested with your DIY. can share pictures and teach us?
I also planning to soundproof abit to enjoy my music

Sure, I can share pictures of the spare tyre boot area this weekend, other areas probably when i re-open again to do some improvements.

Not easy to do and if 1st time, do expect some broken or scratched clips especially those holding the boot area carpet.

The rear doors are pretty easy. The 'phone cup' area, just insert four fingers (except thumb) into the 'cup' and squeeze with your palm very tightly, then try to yank it out. Sometimes the clips get caught and you need to use force, whatever it is do not do too much front-back or left-right motion, only up down, otherwise you will break or bend the clips. After you get that out, two screws to remove + one more at the door opener handle. Remove the power window connector. Then just pry out the door panel from it's clips from the sides.

The front doors, you will need to remove the 'triangle thing' near the side mirror, just yank it out, again, it must be vertical 90 degree from it's mount point. The rest is the same. After you remove the cabin door panels, remove the plastic covering the inner door and you have access to the door skin. Beware of the black 'AC glue' when removing the plastic cover, it can become messy. Then, You need to cut the soundproof material smartly and apply it. Clean the door skin with some cleaner and dry it with lint-free cloth, wait awhile to make sure really really dry. When you apply the soundproof, try to be in hot weather and use a 'roller' to apply force on the material. I used my fiance's nail polish remover bottle, with force make sure you press and 'roll' thru every inch of the material. It must stick. I took 4 weekends with the door. 2 weekend to apply 2 pair of door (4 hours per weekend, 1 pair 1 weekend). Then remaining 2 weekend open again and use your 'roller' to press and make sure it sticks well. Maybe dont need to do this because on mine it stuck really well, but i did it for piece of mind. I used a combination of nakamichi q-pad (expensive but heavy and thick) and some green generic brand. Do it slowly and take rests, grab a beer, play a short game, chill... dont rush, it's not worth the lousy results. For the plastic door panel, you can apply a layer of insuflex or other closed cell foam before attaching it back to the door panel.

Boot, there is alot of clips, you need fingernails or a credit card/thin plastic ruler for the 'mushroom button clips'. The 'handle clips' are very hard to come out, you will need to figure this out with a flat screwdriver or some really hard thin yet long plastic 'screwdriver alike' thing. Insert into both 'handle', yank it out vertically to the mount point with extreme force really quick. This is where i got injured and literally blood sweat and tears Boot area 2 weekend. 1 weekend to apply, 1 weekend to re-press. Use CLD tile soundproof method but add abit more (google), dont need to overdo the boot. 'Knock' on parts of the boot and boot side body, find the most hollow sounding (tonnng tonnggg/dok dok sound) and apply it at that part. Don't use big cuts, use it in tiles but generously. If you knock and hear 'dip dip', that area is very strong already, it wont vibrate, no vibration=no sound=no need apply. You will know when you do it You need to remove the spare tyre, also need to 'climb' and 'sit' in the spare tyre area to reach some areas. Reason to not over-apply or cover the whole boot, you may create a new 'big panel' just with a different vibration frequency. If this frequency matches the exhaust/engine/road, it will amplify and make a loud bassy boomy note at that frequency.

Below the rear seat, youtube some tutorials, hard to explain with words...

I have not done anything in front of the rear seats. And this is really good enough already. On smooth road,pretty silent, on rough road, the thin front floor, side panels and firewall still make low frequency rumble. But overall much much better ride quality, if you have friend with bezza, do an A/B test and you will just smile... And after doing it, you know why you are paying so much for a pro to do it, the immense time needed, carefulness, brain and strength just doesn't justify business cost of doing it cheap I was foreman for a short while when younger, so i have some experience. Do at your own risk. Also, wind-noise rubber seal on all door, b-pillar and boot is a must.

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Oct 19 2017, 10:27 PM

holy, i thought it just simple trick. You are such a perfectionist. Like building a gundam. LOL

sooner or later i need to learn how to remove the doors to do some diy fixes
thanks for sharing. Saving this for future references

Very very worth the effort bro, Mid range Japanese car feel, just pay for material cost. Get to lose some weight as well Tho i think the floor panels after the rear sit toward the front, plus the firewall really need pro to do. If you are ofis kaki, no way unless you wake up at 7am on Saturday and Sunday to play with it. =D No problem, if you DIY can PM me, i may afk from forum from time to time but will reply when log back in

There's a wire that connects to your start system if I'm not mistaken. But the cable connection is up to you, whether you want to connect it or not.

As for the lock, the lock did not bother my legs nor vibrate during driving.

Perhaps you request Sh@rty 5 to share it to you as I'm not with my car now.

does the recommended tyre pressure (sticker on car door), make sense? 290kpa?