seriously, i dont dare to plug them into my PC.....PC devices are really sensitive to fluctuations expecially HDD.......

although you can tap out 12V to form 3.3V , 5V, you still need -5V and alot of features which a normal PSU will have.....might as well get a better inverter and a back-up accumulator

Allngap should know he's an expert in this...

Of course.... the front end is no biggie but I like the remote... and its RF so you can hide the receiver.

http://www.soundgraph.com/Eng_/Products/im...u=1&leftMenu=12

---

Added on March 8, 2007, 1:31 pmYup... car's 12V output can fluctuate from 7V to 17V or something like that... huge fluctuation.

This post has been edited by sniper on the roof: Mar 8 2007, 01:31 PM

Cun!.... available here or not? you know how's the pricing?

err..on the contrary, my knowledge on electronics is actually little.......but basics must be strong in order to understand what is going on.....


first of all, our car battery supply is not always remain on 12V alone...

this depends on how strong is your accumulator(age, type, how many amps, load) and the things which you use, like audio system, aircond, lights, modified spark plugs.....

usually when you rev your engine, voltage will go up a lot and when its idle the voltage will drop below 12V, this also depends on the age of your accumulator as well.....

hence its not really economical to actually tap out from the DC source because there are way too many factors which needs to be overcome in order to gain a stable DC supply......

seems that percentage of fluctuation is high doesn't it?

sweet.........
the brothers screen actually i also wanted to buy, but nissan sunny have only 1 slot....
impressive work

Thanks dude..... you can buy the visor type though cost about RM 199 i think..

yea, i bought the visor type, but china brand ler, no brothers one.....

you reply to your topics fast, you stare at IE and just keep refreshing the pages lol?

No larrr.... have nothign else to do in the office...browsing lorr..eheheheh

Respect! What a good inspiration!

Thanks man...built one for your self and post it here...would like to see others oso..

have u try booting ur pc after parking in the sun in the afternoon?...can overheat a?

yess... no problem...the highest temp i got when i park under intense sunlight was up to 47 degress only...no problem didn't even hang...

hi bro, can u gv ur hp number to i contact u.. i want see ur diy pc in ur car.. actually i hv coustomize my pc n wanna put into my car, i still searching the best inverter.. surveying at jln pasar there hv much electronic shop so... my system hardware is only celeron 2.4ghz, graphic card is nvdia 5500 256mb ddr, RAM 768 mb DDR, msi mobo, but i juz use the desktop 40gb Hdd. i use svideo output at the graphic card. i juz try connected at my tv at home it can be done there but the display at the tv is not clear like pc monitor. I use 1024x768 setting resolution. if i use 640x480 its same still blur. Its that juz only at TV not clear o same if i buy the motorize monitor ..so what ur suggest ... do help me bro .. tq.. here is my hp number 013-6665696 zaly

I've been measuring power consumption of a number of PCs lately, I'll share it in another thread soon about how much power does a PC need. Learnt a lot from my experiences with PSUs blowing out. AMD does consume less power than Intel (especially on idle) starting from AthlonXP and Pentium 4 onwards.

Just FYI, my gf's PC which is similarly spec to your car PC takes ~120W on full load for the whole system except display. My own Athlon64 X2 AM2 takes up ~110W on full load (using onboard GeForce 6100 display) and ~70W on idle, both excluding monitor.

You guys are right about that, but actually I mean use the PSU to regulate the car's suppy. It DOES fluctuate like crazy-not that I've measred, but with all the stuff that draws from it I'm sure its not pretty. PSUs actually produce all the seperate voltages/rails from a single rectified (but poorly regulated) DC source, so I was hoping can adapt the circuit to accept the car ~12v as the DC source. To compensate for severe voltage drops I could even include a sealed lead-acid as a form of UPS (the grey ones you can find in electrical hardware shops). The problem is adapting the circuit in a PSU. I've been working on it for a while now but its giving me a headache. Should be able to get it eventually. Planning on a fully portable desktop with battery(meaning not too heavy to carry).

Btw allngap, if I use the method I think you're suggesting I doubt it can supply anywhere near the required current for a PC. Easy to find electronics that can handle <1.5A (enough for any fan available) but with PCs we're talking 10A++ even on a ultra low power consuming PC; parts that can handle that much are ridiculously hard to get and expensive.

unrelated: Btw, did you know ppl used to 'overclock' hard drives by increasing the motor voltage to make it spin and hence read faster?

This post has been edited by lohwenli: Mar 8 2007, 06:06 PM

if you over spin you hdd by adding extra voltage to it might reduce the motor life span and will make it heat more?

Correction to your statement, with current HDDs spinning at 7200rpm you will probably kill it almost immediately (try rev your car that much ). That was in the 3xxxx-5400rpm days (or perhaps earlier).

walao geng, u pro la... super wiring there. ya install GPS system then more geng

Thanks dude... but i have no use for GPS....