ASB loan shows up in CCRIS
second & third-hand knowledge from:
http://www.howtofinancemoney.com/2012/08/c...ris-report.html
+
a few other stuff like wild_card_my postings in https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/4271313

This post has been edited by wongmunkeong: Oct 17 2017, 12:42 PM

to summarize my answer/respond:
My colleague has been kicking herself after 1st year ASB loan with CIMB coz she SHOULD HAVE DONE IT 6 YEARS AGO when i showed her the Excel / maths

kicking herself coz she didn't do it earlier
ie.
i showed her the maths 6 years back BEFORE she finally did it.
then, 1 year+ after doing it, she saw the results
and she wished she did it right at the beginning when i showed her the maths
coz she lost 6 years' worth of time & possible returns.

whether 8%pa or 6%pa or 7%pa, nearly free $ is nearly free $
IRR is ridiculously high.
BTW - i used 7%pa je to calc for her

This post has been edited by wongmunkeong: Oct 17 2017, 01:53 PM

look at it this way, if people dont buy the latest doodads (iPones, Samsengs, Toyokars, Hontas, etc.) - how would companies and in turn, investors make $?
and quoting some dodgy politicians (yes, they also have good quotes) - "if i can't take care of me & mine, how to take care of U & yours?"

thus, we ourselves can be less materialistic / inflict less pain on our planet, thus able to save & invest
and since we can't control others' materialism, why not benefit from it AND use the benefits to help where possible?

just a thought ya - no absolute right/wrong

i'm not sifu, just an average joe that uses Flexi-mortgage, UTs and other vehicles, thus sharing thoughts only.

The Q of Flexi-mortgage VS UT itself is not too.. right.
$ in Flexi-mortgage is like $ in FD or Fixed Income (assuming your flexi-mortgage interest rate is 5%+/-)
VS
UT can be Equity Funds, Balanced Funds, Bond Funds - which one are U comparing to?

Bottom line: Flexi Mortgage can die die "save" or make U $ based on your interest rate
VS
Equity Funds can make 8%pa to 10%pa but can also make U -ve % AND COST U $ right-off the bat (ie U buy, U lose %)
VS
Bond Funds - er.. i'd suggest U keep your extras in Flexi-Mortgage if U are comparing against Bond Funds

Perhaps U should google Asset Allocation,
Emergency Buffer & where to put,
then only google about Unit Trusts or Mutual Funds, especially Equity Funds.
These will give U a good big picture and then drill down into details.

Just a thought

This post has been edited by wongmunkeong: Nov 3 2017, 01:58 AM

er.. boss, so U saying short IRR boh shiok for all except sendiri feel je VS longer/bigger better feel statistically?
<sounds so ... not right >

TGIF - poking fun ya, pls don't poke pins into that voodoo doll

Birds of a feather flocks together?
Geniuses think alike?

<fist bump>

This post has been edited by wongmunkeong: Nov 3 2017, 02:18 PM

what's your plan
or flying by the seats of your pants?

hehe - busta-rhyme
work your plan lar and plan your work.

tak kan every time move up/down a bit (yes, 2.6% is "a bit" relative to what i've seen), start second guessing pulak.
maybe that's just me, stressed if constantly second guessing self.

just thinking logically - though one can go "by feel" too, which may make more $, no absolute right/wrong

dont scare "virgins" la
maybe never see ghosts before in 1997-1999 & 2008-2009 + coming something butdunnowhen

i'd rather say "keep investing... as long as U can hold them for > 10 years"
coz the markets can be irrational longer than your holding power heheh

bro - repeat after me.. Asset Allocation.. ohm.. Asset Allocation.. ohm.. Asset Allocation.. ohm..

and Asset Allocation is between equities, fixed income + other stuff, not all just "which country/equity fund"
just in case la, being obvious

er.. shares VS equity funds here?
or shares VS balance funds + bond funds here?

asking coz.. equity funds' held assets are shares / stocks, thus not much difference from me holding a basket of stocks

Simplifying: Good investing is like good grocery shopping & healthy diet

i've been holding several "buy transactions" since BEFORE 2008's wild ride and will continue to hold as fits as part of my equities asset allocation.
So far, good ar - each of the transaction's IRR (or XIRR in Excel terms) is >=15%pa, inclusive of cost of purchase of 6% to 8% those days.

U see things in 3 to 4 months or several burro (donkey) years?
If U treat UT/Mutual Funds like flipping burgers, then your choice/call.
Me - i tend to take the lazy way and just OVER-REACT when market is down 20%+/- (over react coz i'll go into feeding frenzy mode 1, mode 2 is at higher "sales discount" )
Each of us buys for a different reason - no absolute right/wrong

urgh.. checked.
thought the 0% was a norm for investments >MYR5K per transaction but turns out only during promo.

i prefer to buy whenever i plan/want to, not based on promo by agent - thus, hard to leverage on the 0%.

This post has been edited by wongmunkeong: Feb 2 2018, 09:18 AM

hm.. that's good news rhumbe nandri

i did it about 2 years back, with FSM, switching from Affin-Hwang to AmInvest., took about 1mth+

Should or not, no idea, best to look to the man in the mirror

Other than SWITCHING / rebalancing (thus have Fixed Income assets to plough back into Equity assets),
some of us do save to invest +our emergency funds' generated FD.

Investments' growth will USUALLY be less than one's savings' growth until one has been investing for umpteen years.
Thus, know the game, have a plan, work the plan

yup, me too but not an "All In"/"All Out" thing, more of asset allocation / reallocation thing.

Unsure how your approach is - no absolute right/wrong ya

This post has been edited by wongmunkeong: Feb 7 2018, 10:40 AM

<deleted> weird double posts

This post has been edited by wongmunkeong: Feb 7 2018, 10:55 AM

Process initiated early/mid Dec 2015 BUT concluded 20th Jan 2016

However, transacted dates were:
12/01/2016 out of AffinHwang VS 20/01/2016 into AmInvest

Thus, only 8 calendar days in twilight zone.
Note - i did it only to refocus/balance my asset allocation, not for anything else. Thus, the few days transaction time or 1mth+/- execution time doesn't matter to me much.

when did the fellow become EPF director ar?
credit mau tapi.. typical

er.. last closing, S&P500 -10.16% ish only from the highest point, which was sometime last month.
so.. big deal yet meh?

technically, in their jargon, it's already a correction
now to see if it's going for a -20% or more heheh

personally, i'll start lelong buys at -16% to -18% and if fall more significantly from there, chunking in.
like my grocery shopping - Tesco give 10% voucher.. see la if i'm doing groceries anyway, use lor
BUT
if Tesco give me 15% or 20% voucher, i'd start looking for things to buy and stockup
Simplistic but clear

ah.. that's where one must buy only groceries/home stuff that LASTS & WILL BE USED
like stocks that are good / simple businesses & trust worthy management culture
right or right?

i aint buying no stinking shares of businesses ran by pirates that espouses religion & BS but robs customers & shareholders blind