List of issues with mine so far with "possible" solutions..
1.
Gearbox pvc leather cover got hole - SC have already ordered but not yet received since the last 4 months.
2.
Small dent on rear left side of car - not noticeable unless you really look and search for it
- did not complain to SC about this as god knows how long my car will be kept there to replace the rear boot panel.
3.
Rear seat backrest latch problem after un-latching. - causing rattle sound
- right latch cannot be re-latched. left side have to slam my rear backrest into position to lock.
- SC ordered right side latch only since 1 month ago.
4.
Steering wheel alignment off center. - meaning for my car to move straight the steering wheel must be turned slightly counter clockwise.
- SC said can't help me with this as I've changed my stock rims but this issue existed before I changed them.
- Have to do outside shop alignment then. Hopefully it will fix it but some say that this is one of a known plague of proton whereby the steering rack bush got issue.
5.
Rattle noise like "stones in a glass jar vibrating" when going over uneven surfaces coming out from my glovebox area. - Highly likely is the latch and striker causing this sound as when I drive with glovebox opened, this issue is non-existed.
- temporary solution is to tape the striker to reduce the sound but sound still exists (less often)
- SC have no solution for this and also followed my method.
6.
Absorber thump thump sound when going over bumps. - Very audible when driving without radio on.
- Both front absorbers
- SC have checked it twice (added some lubricant to the absorbers) but problem still persists. 3rd time go SC will request them to change both.
7.
Highly likely drive shaft axle has gone bad - I'm really disappointed with this.
- Refer to
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/4180043 - SC already confirmed drive shaft issue and order right side driveshaft. But I am having this issue when I turn left or right over bumps/sudden change in floor level.
8.
Really poor performance & response when driving under 2k rpm. - this is when the engine is at operating temperature. When my engine is cold, performance is good and snappy most of the time (I'm not really sure is this all the time or not). Could be due to ecu pump rich a/f ratio during cold.
- Also when driving at low speed and moderate rpm, when the aircon compressor kicks in, can definitely feel my rpm dropped and a braking force exerted to my cars engine. In other words it sorts of jerked. In a manual...
- Also, sometimes when shifting back to neutral and braking towards a stop. rpm stays at 1.5k and later on drops. refering to this (persoan vvt group)
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/4011234/+1540 , could be due to faulty brake stop switch. Will check with SC on my 3rd problems trip there.
9.
Metal rattling sound coming from engine bay when engine is under load or at a hill and warmed up below 2k rpm (could be during cold but mostly during warm). - Sample similar sound here at around 00:10s (sry duno embed)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCbi3FnuhTM...rLLRr-Q&index=1 - At first really worried as this might be pinging or pre-detonation sound coming from within my engines combustion chamber as in the short/long run will cause serious damage to my engine. I've researched that this is a common issue with campro engines especially during gen2 era (No one has a solid solution for this yet).
- could be due to engine too hot and the mixture detonated before piston reaches top dead center. could be knock sensor problem. could be ron95 not compatible. could be bad cooling system. could be ecu problem. really lost here...
- However from the video sample shown with similar sound, his solution was actually looking into the exhaust heat shield that was found to be loose. Thus this could be whats causing the issue. During my next trip to SC I will have them check this out also...
- PLEASE BE EXHAUST HEAT SHIELD ISSUE...
---------------------------------------- End of issues currently with my Saga VVT manual 2016-------------------------------------------------------------
I will get myself an obd2 scanner as well for myself to diagnose my car to check if everything is supposed to be running as it should.
Again, car drives great but this issues (especially issue 7,8,9) must be solved asap before it gives birth to other issues. I guess in my case, its true that when u buy a proton u learn more about ur car and will have regular visits to the SC....
I am still keeping my calm as the car is still drive-able and not staying in SC emergency ward overnight....
I won't surprise what you faced in item 8 above. Proton VVT has the official torque and horse power figure same as campro iafm, with no official dyno chart release to differentiate these 2, i doubt VVT is much more superior than IAFM. No doubt you will feel under power for anything lower than 2k since the max torque come very late at 4k rpm. The jerking during compressor kickin is exactly what happen in BLM/FL/FLX due to the oversize compressor used in this small engine (i believe it still the same Sanden unit in saga VVT, which is piston based compressor), the compressor can seize up to 30% of engine torque during operation, but the outcome is cold aircond in cabin even in minimal coldness setting. Furthermore the engine braking jerk can only be felt.in manual especially in gear1 and 2 due to direct coupling of clutch to the engine, you won't feel in 4AT and CVT due to drastic torque seizure masked by the less efficient (compare to manual clutch) torque converter/wet clutch.
I would say overall new proton did improve alot in safety and assesories, but the engine compartment still lack the refinement and lag behind the competitor.