sc should have the capability to recalibrate the meter in a good workmanship standard. but they likely to turn down your request as you modified the rim size from the original spec, in which OEM not advise to do (but they like it because they no need to honor the warranty for related parts LOL)

or maybe some established workshop might able to do that as well.

i think you need to find outside workshop to do it for you.

always happen? or only during cold start?

cold start is kinda normal, once it heat up then it should back to normal idle rpm, btw, yours is Saga VVT 4AT or CVT?

yes, it could be the clutch adaptation issue.

petronas syntium SE should be the cheapest authorized selling item. anything cheaper i think you may need to go buy online which you have no idea on the authenticity.

need to ask proton customer care, and get their written reply to safeguard yourself

this is cheap! cheaper than syntium 3000 SE

also plenty of bezzas on the road as well, heard bezza FL outsold saga vvt FL. anyway, it's all down to your budget and what you want bro. saga and bezza, though they are same segment but own has their own advantage and disadvantages.

i had a bezza pre fl in my house and i agree to your point.

million dollar question will be, is the refrigerant pressure ok? checked?

by the way, the engine coolant cool down trigger and aircond cooling trigger works independently, and not necessarily after a long drive the coolant requires cool down. because if you having a long drive lets say highway, the coolant is actually cooled down quite well, unless you whacking it hard all the way.

For a start, check reservoir level. If overflowing then reservoir level should go down.

Next thing to do since now is MCO period you should have more time to do it, Fill up the reservoir to full level, start the car, let the engine run until the "optimum temperature" i.e the 3 bar, pop up your engine bonnet, and observe whether the fan turn on or not. If you see the reservoir boiling, then check the temperature bar, 3 or 4 bar? if still 3 bar and boiling, maybe faulty radiator cap or even faulty (dumb) temperature sensor. If it raise to 4 bar and the fan doesn't switch on, need professional advise already.


atf change is every 60k km if i remember correctly.

if fan relay spoil then by right the fan won't start turning when you switch on the aircond. Maybe you should pay a visit to car sparepart shop if you don't mind spending some money for a new radiator cap. If changing the radiator cap works, then it is the problem. Else, it could be others. I have a wild guess is that the coolant system might behaving air pocket. Something that is common for persona vvt, but then the temperature will shoot up to 4 bar and the fan will keep on spinning non stop even you off the engine.

questions:
1. have you been servicing your car at sc? or outside?
2. what is the colour of the coolant? any sign of rust?
3. check the radiator, is there any foreign debris inside?
4. how old your car?

i think 60k km service interval is pretty common, mazda skydrive also 60k km if not mistaken. I think during the atf change it is draining most if not all of the ATF out, because you are paying 2xx plus for ATF change.
yeah, go test drive before you decide to buy it. your own feeling and interaction with the car is the most important thing.

looks like you got a really bad lemon unit to be honest, had you escalated this issue to Proton Customer Care HQ level? If not, you better do so. Don't expect SC able to do something for you.

Bro, that's a smart fix! Can i ask you something?
1. is this done by SC?
2. they wrap the whole power steering cooling hose? Or just the portion where the metal clipping?
3. Is that a rubber padding? Or something like a foam?

I wanted to collect this info and talk to the sc i'm visiting after MCO during my car service.

hahaha

nak tau la, kalo tak tak buat dan tulis dalam system, HQ akan tanya punya lo. hahaha

normal, typical malaysian way of handling stuff. as we malaysia doesn't have a strong consumer law to protect the consumers.

1. because the meter is calibrated based on R13 circumference, when it changed to R15, the actual travel distance on the meter doesn't match the one that actually travel
2. the powertrain is calibrated for R13 size, change to R15, surely not that suitable, unless 95% on highway driving, if 95% city driving and change from R13 to R15, good luck.

mine wasn't cvt so i wasn't sure is it common for cvt to move until 2k rpm, but it sounds weird, i feel it could be due to the start up clutch of your cvt unit, maybe requires clutch adaptation

heard is cannot adjust due to safety concern. Imagine you have an elephant leg and the brake pedal and the throttle pedal is on the same level, what gonna happen if you meet an emergency and your instinct is whack on the pedal? which pedal you end up pressing?

seems like this part is famous for the breakage.

Guys, been seeing a few cases of radiator hose loose on the fb owners community, you guys has to take care as well.

the equation doesn't goes such way. i never heard of B segment cars surely last longer than A segment cars though.