Lately the quality of Tamiya masking tape is like shit. Almost no difference than generic masking tape sold at hardware. My MG Justice head looks like a dropped pie on the floor.
One thing I noticed with masking tape is the tape are less sticky to surface if you mark the kit and leave it for 1-2 days. Usually I mask my kits morning and immediately paint it afternoon.
Yes airbrushed. I did not top coat after painting, I wanted to top coat when I've snapped most pieces together.
Split the head, arms, legs and body for top coat is the fastest and cost effective way. Unless you having OCD that every pieces need to top coat perfectly...
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Trust me I did once for HG Banshee Norn my first airbrush kit, will never do that again
Not very OCD (maybe some??) but I wanted to top coat because some pieces will get scratches easily when I'm done painting and snapping the pieces together...
My experience with this is to airbrush the parts until it look wet but not overflow the paint/top coat to have better strength on resisting scratches. But do mind the part size will slightly bigger due to extra paint and top coat on surface especially for inner frame or joint you need to take note on it.
Is it normal though? I'm not experienced enough to judge the quality of the finish. But the gunmetal parts are super durable, the blood red feels tough too but the matte black...it feels rough on touch and it feels like it's very weak. Very prone to scratches.
Does top coating the parts mitigates this problem? Surprisingly the inner frame (gunmetal) is super durable. Only the matte black is very prone to scratches. Does top coating the parts before putting them back together mitigates the problem?
If you use your thumb gently/litter force rub the surface did your hand get colored? If yes that mean the surface is painted with too dry during airbrush (high pressure) so you might want to try airbrush it till look misty wet like suggested earlier. For movable joint between parts like Shauno suggest can sand down to make some gap between avoid direct contact.
Edit: Matte surface suppose to feel bit rough compare to gloss.
This post has been edited by ~C.W.S~: Mar 8 2018, 02:00 PM
I can't really bring myself to like scale of HG and RG (except for big kits like kshatriya). BTW, are older kits like Zaku II Johnny Ridden weaker in terms of plastic quality? I've did 2 MG (red frame bandai and strike noir (DM)), the dragon momoko was the first kit I've ever painted with a lot of mistakes. But it didn't really break or anything when I was putting the kits back together.
The plastic of the zaku seems very weak (post paint). Did the paint made it a lot weaker? I've so far broken 3 parts already.
Sometime old/aged plastic kits may not so strong but I have yet to encounter any yet, maybe you put too much force with your thumb ? And yes lacquer paint do have corrosion element same with panel line too, so it could eat and stick to plastic surface.
Better is not my point though. My point is my preference is MG. It's a personal thing, I don't mean other grades are bad. lol BTW, I only have 3 kits, so my taste my change later
Most of my problems are not on ABS though. It's the armor piece. Maybe it's my problem, cause I used too much force.
Take your time to play, I had same problem like you on first few kits painted build since no much experience things doesn't go really well. Once you get used to it you can make a nice and beautiful kits too.
It was... not very far/close....about 1 samsung note of distance? (sorry, can't really think of another way of telling the distance)
It's possible that I may have sprayed a bit too close.. since I think it was windy that day.........
I've since asked around and I was told to sand my primed surface as well. So since you recommended me to do this as well, is it safe to say that primer's surface finish affects the final paint coat? Like if the primer itself gives a very rough finish, the paint will came out very rough as well?
I asked because this is my 2nd kit painted kit and the first kit had similar finish albeit different color but same primer. Also, if the primer is rough, paint finish is rough, will the top coat be rough as well? As in, spotty finish...?
Yes the primer surface contribute majority of how good the finishing gloss or smooth result you will getting, having light sanded vs non sanded prime surface yield different result of smoothness and gloss.
Looks like bandai is releasing full metal panic model kits.....
Preorded the arbalest can't wait for painted build it . The M9 feel like can do some customization with orange color scheme might look good (aldnoah zero? ).
1) I use it on all parts of my gunpla with panel lines that needs to be cleaned, the part that cracked is the tip of my skirting rifle of my MG Freedom 2.0, the material is PS. My kit is genuine Bandai kit.
2) should be genuine Zippo, I purposely go buy in a tobacco/cigarette shop in Sunway Pyramid, RM13++
Probably few reasons 1. Too much panel lines accent applied and left too long before cleaned. 2. The plastic already fragile almost broken when assemble.
When cleaning the panel lines accent you only need very tiny litter bit of Zippo like dip it using cotton bud then good to go. Maybe take a piece of left over runners soap it with your Zippo see if it get dissolved.
Maybe because the design isnt appealing and not many know the existence of model kit. Before new HG and SDCS we got the old one made from 2001. Also Mazinger is mostly about action figure & chogokin toy.
Maybe only old folk like me who did like to play super robot wars series before will appreciate the mecha during old days.
Dont have mark setter yet. Not sure water decal can last or not without mark setter.
Will you play with it often? If yes might need minimal decal applied because it almost guarantee will drop off, especially those small one. To make the decal hold better yes can go for mark setter + top coat.
Ive a friend coming from overseas needs recommendation on gundam. Any favourite shops that i can recommend him when he comes over in end of April this year? Location kl only
Angle trend trading at batu caves my favorite, there have all bandai or 3rd party brand also plenty of tools supplies you need for building gunpla.