From most expensive to cheapest IIRC

SRAM 1x:
Eagle XX1
Eagle X01
XX1
X01
X1
GX
NX

SRAM 2x/3x:
XX
X0
X9
X7
X5
X4/X3

Congrats. Pictars please. Jom kiara soon.

Veli nais.

Just wear whatever you usually wear for sports first. No need to spend more until you are more serious about the hobby. Think about riding more on trails to build up your stamina and skill. Riding around taman can get boring fast.

Anyone using 165mm cranks? How is it pedalling/rotation compared to longer lengths? Am thinking of changing to this length from 170mm. BB too low and getting way too many pedal strikes.

Lol. Normal bro for first timers or those getting back on the saddle again. Once your ass get used to it, you won't feel it anymore. Getting the right saddle can help feel more comfortable also. You can google to find out which shape or size that suits you.

This post has been edited by thurtin: May 30 2017, 03:02 PM

Lol. This.

Just get a rack within your budget. You don't want to dirty or damage your car seats.

New Santa Cruz Nomad. 170mm front and rear travel. V10 linkage design.

Honestly, am not feeling this bike. It's surely a very fast bike, but it just look weird and awkward to me. Colour options also quite meh.




Attached thumbnail(s)

Dunno local pricing yet, but based on old nomad price complete bike should be between 20k to 30k. Frame only probably 12k+.

Yes. My friend using the local copy sea sucker. Can't remember the name. So far so good. He even goes more than 120kmh on the highway with it. Lol.

The brand that he uses is called SuckOn. Not sure if its still available. Can check Bike Market FB page. Don't have pic, but it like the pic below.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Sharing my experience. When I do night rides at kiara, I use two lights. On my bar I use a cheap China super bright cree light like the one below. It's like a flood light to light up the trail ahead. Not sure what lumens but it's quite good. On my helmet, I use a more focussed beam light with the moon light that's about 400 lumens. Good for when you need to look at where you want to point the bike. Both lights about 2 years now and still working fine.

This post has been edited by thurtin: Jun 9 2017, 01:30 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

If you ride trails like kiara or KDCF most of the time, 1x is ok for the average rider. Nowadays you can pair a 30t or 32t chainring with cassettes that have bailout cogs as big as 44t or 46t. Enough to climb everything really. Just have to get use to it. The only downside is you lose a lot of the top speed, but then again how fast can you go on the trail? Lol. If you have strong legs you can always use 34t or 36t chainring to go faster but you suffer more on the climbs.

2x systems obviously has easier gears for climbing and going fast, e.g Shimano's 34-24T or 36-26T double chainrings with 11t-42t cassettes. Good if you do mostly road, flattish trails or jamboree runs. Also if you are not that fit as well. If you ask some ppl, 2x has more redundant gears for trail riding and you are carrying more weight. Almost 400g more. Lol. I used to use 2x slx. Climbing was so easy. First time I use x01, I felt the burn when climbing, but after a few rides, you will get used to it. Make sure you get the right chainring and cassette combo for your fitness level.

At the end of the day, it really depends on what you like or comfortable with. Some ppl prefer 1x because it is lighter and simpler for trail riding. 2x is for going faster on flats/roads and easier climbs.

LOL. Too many people misunderstand the arguments of 1x vs 2x vs 3x. At the end of the day, its all about the USABLE RANGE that you want or can get.

How gears work is simple. To go faster, you need a big chainring with a small cog. For climbs, you need a small chainring with a big cog. In the beginning of MTB, people started out with 8spd and 9spd systems. Yes, they work but people realise that having more gears give people more usable range.

Think of 4spd vs 6spd automatic transmissions in cars today. 4spd transmission works fine in the beginning, but over the years car makers researched to give drivers better/smoother power delivery and fuel efficiency with 6spd transmissions. Same thing with MTB systems. The more gears you have, the less abrupt the shifting and your power delivery is more consistent. Granted that you may not feel that drastic change with 10spd vs 11spd, but 11spd does feel a lot better than 9spd and 8spd.

I've used 2x10 and 1x10 before changing to 1x11. If you asked me, the differences are subtle, but enough for you to see why 1x11 is better. At least for me la. You save a ton of weight (300g to 400g is a lot in the MTB world), simplify operation (one shifter, no FD or crossed chain to worry about), and get 80% to 90% of the same 2x10 range.

Most people still think 2x is better for XC or 1x is for AM, me included but the differences getting smaller now. Look at the possible combos now. I run a 32t chainring with a 9-44t cassette. This is great for my usual AM riding. If I decide to join races, I could go 34t or 36t chainring and still go fast and climb quite decently.

This is why i also think the Eagle 1x12 is a real game changer, not just a marketing gimmick. Now you can truly have 1x that covers all riding styles. You can do XC races with a big 36t chainring with the crazy 10-50t cassette, and still able to use it for AM riding quite comfortably. Too bad about the crazy early adopter price now though. lol.

More data for you to consider.

2x10 with 11-36t cassette
22t/36t = 0.61

1x11 with 11-42t cassette
32t/42t = 0.76
30t/42t = 0.71

1x11 with 11-46t cassette
32t/46t = 0.69
30t/46t = 0.65

As you can see, you don't lose much with the right chainring and cassette combo if you are really particular about stuff. Don't be afraid to try.

If you want to garu the itch, you can always buy those extender 42t or 44t cogs at a fraction of the price of a new 2x11 system.

Yes, SRAM cassette can't go bigger than 42t right now except for Eagle cassette, but you can try third party solution like One Up. Sos: https://int.oneupcomponents.com/collections...og-44t-sprocket. But you need to have X01 or XX1 cassette though.

I've been using E13 TRS+ 9-44t cassette that is compatible with XD driver. Can check that out if within your budget. Not cheap at RM1.5k, but good thing is that you can change just the last 3 big cogs when it wears out (about RM450). In the long run, it is cheaper than buying new SRAM cassettes (X1, X01 or XX1). Was using RM400+ GX cassette but couldn't last after 6 months or so.

If you are going 2x or 3x to 1x11, you will need a new 11spd chain anyways.

If you are going from 3x or 2x to 1x10, most of the time you need to shorten the chain to get the right tension.

Already invested in sram 1x ma. I'm not smooth with shifting. Last minute gear change, grinding gears. More wear on cassette.

I don't have RB so I don't know but the answer you are looking for is probably here: http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/comp...brackets-36660/

Don't buy a MTB if you think you will be riding on the road 90% of the time. A road bike is actually easier for steepish road stuff, and generally on any roads.

If you must/want to buy a MTB to try, personally i would suggest buying a cheap 2nd hand bike especially if you really unsure if MTB is for you. Check out www.bicycylebuysell.com for bargains. Don't spend all 2k on the first bike. Spend 800 to 1.2k on the bike. Keep the rest for helmet and other gear that you may need (pads, gloves, shoes, water bottle, etc).

Good luck.