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 MotoGP testing 2, aka the panning exam

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TSandy
post Feb 7 2007, 11:55 PM, updated 19y ago

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From: shah alam



need the sifus comments on these shots, as in whats wrong with some of the photos so that can patch up my flaws for future events biggrin.gif

All shots taken using : 350D, 70-200 F2.8L + 1.4x, CS2 (watermark, resize, etc)

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ok, open fire!
nairud
post Feb 7 2007, 11:59 PM

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Nice panning...
now, borrow me your F2.8L for the weekend
TSandy
post Feb 8 2007, 12:02 AM

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From: shah alam



yes boss sweat.gif

This post has been edited by andy: Feb 8 2007, 12:03 AM
ahleong
post Feb 8 2007, 12:12 AM

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boss... the shutter speed too high liao..
look like all bike stop at the track and let u shoot leh..

try low shutter speed.. tongue.gif
TSandy
post Feb 8 2007, 12:14 AM

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From: shah alam



okok, what shutter you recommend? 350D ar.. if too slow sure the photo not nice one..
ahleong
post Feb 8 2007, 12:17 AM

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QUOTE(andy @ Feb 8 2007, 12:14 AM)
okok, what shutter you recommend? 350D ar.. if too slow sure the photo not nice one..
*
start try from 1/250..
then try 1/200, 1/160, 1/125, 1/100, 1/80 .....

this is wht my sifu told me... tongue.gif
i oso start learn panning..
lancau
post Feb 8 2007, 12:17 AM

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agreed with ahleong, slow shutter speed give better result , and the
expensive lens give very nice result too =)

some picture leaving too much space behind the bike , hehehe
just my 2 cents, no reach that pro level to comment much .
TSandy
post Feb 8 2007, 12:23 AM

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From: shah alam



noted, I thought like 1/500 ok edi tongue.gif looks like should have asked before, now have to wait for F1 testing next month.. sad.gif *runs to roadside for panning* tongue.gif

which one? if you're talking about the wheelie ones, I deliberately compose it to the side so that can print and ask for autograph, which I did! biggrin.gif
ac98
post Feb 8 2007, 01:28 AM

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Wahhh ... Ahleong Photography moving into motorsports already. Listen to his tips brows.gif

To create more dynamism in your panning, go on a lower shutter speed to create motion blur for your bokeh and sense of speed with the bike rims still spinning when you capture them. Otherwise, your shots will look too stagnant with backgrounds looking sharp and grasses still faintly visible.
diwant
post Feb 8 2007, 01:33 AM

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Good effort there brother..
TSandy
post Feb 8 2007, 01:47 AM

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From: shah alam



thanks diwant smile.gif

ac, how to practice safe shooting at slow shutter speeds? I dunno if it's my hands or what but at 280mm and below 1/600 my shots become very funny..

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like this one, shot at 135mm also it's a bit blurred?

This post has been edited by andy: Feb 8 2007, 01:49 AM
panasonic88
post Feb 8 2007, 09:32 AM

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nice try andy
i like to see panning shots
something different to look at

take more take more laugh.gif

nairud
post Feb 8 2007, 09:42 AM

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QUOTE(panasonic88 @ Feb 8 2007, 09:32 AM)
nice try andy
i like to see panning shots
something different to look at

take more take more laugh.gif
*
something different to look at? lol

ac98
post Feb 8 2007, 10:06 AM

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QUOTE(andy @ Feb 8 2007, 01:47 AM)
thanks diwant smile.gif

ac, how to practice safe shooting at slow shutter speeds? I dunno if it's my hands or what but at 280mm and below 1/600 my shots become very funny..

http://own3d.net/motogp/test2/t15.jpg

like this one, shot at 135mm also it's a bit blurred?
*

A about 1/60, even if you can handheld the camera, it won't be able to track the bike down at that speed with a frame that wide tongue.gif
TSandy
post Feb 8 2007, 01:03 PM

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Ehh? sorry sifu, I thought if wider means easier to track the object? and that pic was handheld, I thought I set the shutter to 1/100, no wonder the background so blur tongue.gif

panasonic, thanks smile.gif

This post has been edited by andy: Feb 8 2007, 01:04 PM
jkcm
post Feb 8 2007, 01:14 PM

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Hmmm...

1st: Slow shutter speed, nobody can tell you how slow, cause you need to know the speed of you subject and adjust accordingly.

2nd: You need more, active space and not dead space. Active space meaning, the space in front of the bike to give it a sense that the bike is moving in.

3rd: Proper panning technique



ac98
post Feb 8 2007, 01:21 PM

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QUOTE(andy @ Feb 8 2007, 01:03 PM)
Ehh? sorry sifu, I thought if wider means easier to track the object? and that pic was handheld, I thought I set the shutter to 1/100, no wonder the background so blur tongue.gif
*

Well ... you're using what to track the bike? Focusing points? Or just plain closing down the aperture and hope that the DOF will cover the bike as it zooms across? At 1/100 the image is still very fuzzy, means the bokeh still indicates that your hand moved DOWN instead or only right to left.

This post has been edited by ac98: Feb 8 2007, 01:22 PM
diwant
post Feb 8 2007, 01:26 PM

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well i heard that using monopod for this kind of panning is useful too..
ac98
post Feb 8 2007, 01:33 PM

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QUOTE(diwant @ Feb 8 2007, 01:26 PM)
well i heard that using monopod for this kind of panning is useful too..
*

Of course it is! laugh.gif
TSandy
post Feb 8 2007, 01:37 PM

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From: shah alam



AF not effective enough, so what I did was AF a specific point, then turn it to manual and wait for the bike to come, as it zoomed by I just capture when the AF point blinks, is this the correct technique?

and also, that specific shot was taken using my wide angle 28-135 because I was too near to use the 70-200 (attached with a monopod). but what I'm trying to ask you is, what do you mean by "won't be able to track the bike down at that speed with a frame that wide"

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