All shots taken using : 350D, 70-200 F2.8L + 1.4x, CS2 (watermark, resize, etc)










ok, open fire!
MotoGP testing 2, aka the panning exam
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Feb 7 2007, 11:55 PM, updated 19y ago
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#1
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Senior Member
1,973 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: shah alam |
need the sifus comments on these shots, as in whats wrong with some of the photos so that can patch up my flaws for future events
All shots taken using : 350D, 70-200 F2.8L + 1.4x, CS2 (watermark, resize, etc) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ok, open fire! |
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Feb 7 2007, 11:59 PM
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#2
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Staff
7,529 posts Joined: Jan 2003 |
Nice panning...
now, borrow me your F2.8L for the weekend |
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Feb 8 2007, 12:02 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
1,973 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: shah alam |
yes boss
This post has been edited by andy: Feb 8 2007, 12:03 AM |
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Feb 8 2007, 12:12 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
1,045 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Sri Petaling |
boss... the shutter speed too high liao..
look like all bike stop at the track and let u shoot leh.. try low shutter speed.. |
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Feb 8 2007, 12:14 AM
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#5
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1,973 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: shah alam |
okok, what shutter you recommend? 350D ar.. if too slow sure the photo not nice one..
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Feb 8 2007, 12:17 AM
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#6
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1,045 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Sri Petaling |
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Feb 8 2007, 12:17 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
228 posts Joined: Jun 2006 From: Sri Gombak |
agreed with ahleong, slow shutter speed give better result , and the
expensive lens give very nice result too =) some picture leaving too much space behind the bike , hehehe just my 2 cents, no reach that pro level to comment much . |
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Feb 8 2007, 12:23 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
1,973 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: shah alam |
noted, I thought like 1/500 ok edi
which one? if you're talking about the wheelie ones, I deliberately compose it to the side so that can print and ask for autograph, which I did! |
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Feb 8 2007, 01:28 AM
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#9
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3,758 posts Joined: Apr 2006 From: Selayang |
Wahhh ... Ahleong Photography moving into motorsports already. Listen to his tips
To create more dynamism in your panning, go on a lower shutter speed to create motion blur for your bokeh and sense of speed with the bike rims still spinning when you capture them. Otherwise, your shots will look too stagnant with backgrounds looking sharp and grasses still faintly visible. |
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Feb 8 2007, 01:33 AM
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Junior Member
295 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
Good effort there brother..
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Feb 8 2007, 01:47 AM
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1,973 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: shah alam |
thanks diwant
ac, how to practice safe shooting at slow shutter speeds? I dunno if it's my hands or what but at 280mm and below 1/600 my shots become very funny.. ![]() like this one, shot at 135mm also it's a bit blurred? This post has been edited by andy: Feb 8 2007, 01:49 AM |
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Feb 8 2007, 09:32 AM
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VIP
37,028 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Petaling Jaya |
nice try andy
i like to see panning shots something different to look at take more take more |
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Feb 8 2007, 09:42 AM
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Staff
7,529 posts Joined: Jan 2003 |
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Feb 8 2007, 10:06 AM
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3,758 posts Joined: Apr 2006 From: Selayang |
QUOTE(andy @ Feb 8 2007, 01:47 AM) thanks diwant ac, how to practice safe shooting at slow shutter speeds? I dunno if it's my hands or what but at 280mm and below 1/600 my shots become very funny.. http://own3d.net/motogp/test2/t15.jpg like this one, shot at 135mm also it's a bit blurred? A about 1/60, even if you can handheld the camera, it won't be able to track the bike down at that speed with a frame that wide |
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Feb 8 2007, 01:03 PM
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1,973 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: shah alam |
Ehh? sorry sifu, I thought if wider means easier to track the object? and that pic was handheld, I thought I set the shutter to 1/100, no wonder the background so blur
panasonic, thanks This post has been edited by andy: Feb 8 2007, 01:04 PM |
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Feb 8 2007, 01:14 PM
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Junior Member
68 posts Joined: Apr 2005 |
Hmmm...
1st: Slow shutter speed, nobody can tell you how slow, cause you need to know the speed of you subject and adjust accordingly. 2nd: You need more, active space and not dead space. Active space meaning, the space in front of the bike to give it a sense that the bike is moving in. 3rd: Proper panning technique |
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Feb 8 2007, 01:21 PM
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Senior Member
3,758 posts Joined: Apr 2006 From: Selayang |
QUOTE(andy @ Feb 8 2007, 01:03 PM) Ehh? sorry sifu, I thought if wider means easier to track the object? and that pic was handheld, I thought I set the shutter to 1/100, no wonder the background so blur Well ... you're using what to track the bike? Focusing points? Or just plain closing down the aperture and hope that the DOF will cover the bike as it zooms across? At 1/100 the image is still very fuzzy, means the bokeh still indicates that your hand moved DOWN instead or only right to left. This post has been edited by ac98: Feb 8 2007, 01:22 PM |
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Feb 8 2007, 01:26 PM
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Junior Member
295 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
well i heard that using monopod for this kind of panning is useful too..
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Feb 8 2007, 01:33 PM
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3,758 posts Joined: Apr 2006 From: Selayang |
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Feb 8 2007, 01:37 PM
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Senior Member
1,973 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: shah alam |
AF not effective enough, so what I did was AF a specific point, then turn it to manual and wait for the bike to come, as it zoomed by I just capture when the AF point blinks, is this the correct technique?
and also, that specific shot was taken using my wide angle 28-135 because I was too near to use the 70-200 (attached with a monopod). but what I'm trying to ask you is, what do you mean by "won't be able to track the bike down at that speed with a frame that wide" |
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