Have you ever done any form of throttle/turbo cleaning with e.g. Threebond? Do you have an Oil Catch Tank (non re-circulating set-up) installed? If it's no to both, then get both of them done. First one will get rid of the gunk in the turbo unit, intercooler and throttle body if you spray Threebond through the Turbo. Second option will (or should) stop oil from collecting in the turbo and subsequently the intercooler and throttle body. Especially good if you like to go heavy on the throttle.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Oct 16 2016, 08:36 PM

I got mine replaced recently. Now just waiting for my seat replacement after proving that it has noise. Might have to return for another time though after replacing the base since I believe that the backrest is also exhibiting a bit of the same noise. Protong doesn't want to replace the entire seat in one go, plus their supplier isn't producing enough seats at the moment. Besides this, I've gotten almost every issue I had with the car solved. I also got my driver door re-aligned to reduce the gap during the last visit, and I'll probably get them to look at my boot's gap when I return for the seat replacement.

RM315 with installation

Centre of Excellence. You don't have to bring it here though. Just tell the SC to adjust the door striker. I'm not sure who did mine though since I remember someone driving my car off to somewhere but not into the parking lot or out of CoE. Perhaps they brought it to the B&P section.

Edit: Driving off to somewhere with the door still miss aligned, and coming back with it fixed

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Oct 24 2016, 01:49 PM

I also face rather excessive vibrations when accelerating a little bit harder after a stop or close to a stop especially up a hill. For now I take it as one of unfortunate things we have to accept for this car unless it's actually not supposed to be like this. Perhaps you could bring it to a service centre and ask them to look at the engine/transmission mounting for you.

Might be caused by the boot cover/board. There should be 2 to 4 rubber pieces that were pasted onto the boot cover/board from the factory. They are very poorly stuck on though due to the chosen surface, so perhaps they've dropped off somewhere. Don't know which idiot decided to stick the rubber pieces onto the board. If it doesn't sound like the boot cover/board rattling against the plastic surface it's on, perhaps try playing around with the folding rear seats.

Intercooler = lowers the intake air temperature before it goes into the throttle body.

Suprima's cooling system should be reliable. If you're worried about the turbo, just leave the car idling with the air-cond set to the coldest setting (and wind the window down) for at least 2 to 3 minutes after travelling for an extended period of time. This keeps the oil circulating throughout the engine and turbo, and it'll keep the radiator fan running as well.

http://service.punchpowertrain.com/product...il1e/id/79.html

Look up EA Autoworks on Facebook and look in their Notes section. You'll see something about Clutch Adaptation as well.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Oct 30 2016, 10:33 AM

https://www.facebook.com/zordaqmotorsports/...288035461230970

One less thing to worry about.

How much is the ps4?

Rm440 per piece? Much cheaper than expected.

I guess.

Nothing. As simple as shifting between and waiting in R, N and D.

I think what you're hearing is the operation of the electric water pump.

Bring it to a SC and ask them to check the gearbox I guess.

Has anyone observed their DRLs in operation? I just noticed that my left lamp's DRL colour is slightly more towards blue/green whilst the right side is white. Already did the conversion to Osram Xenarc HIDs so I'm gonna have to swap out the bulbs and the dust cover in case I decide to pursue this.

Asked an expert about this and apparently it's quite a normal occurrence. Their brightness still seem to be the same though. I really can't believe I didn't notice the difference until now as I always leave my car idling when I reach my office. Maybe it deteriorated over time..

Edit: Took a look from far and up close again, and the brightness is certainly the same, just that the left lamp has a cool temperature look whilst the right is warm. I guess I'll just leave it since it isn't exactly an eyesore.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Nov 3 2016, 08:40 AM

Decided to send an email to protong about my DRLs. Hopefully they'll be able to solve this for me as I can't stop thinking about the colour difference.

I don't know, but I certainly hope that the replacement is free since it's their fault in the first place.



Edit: The left headlamp DRL may look nicer in the picture above, but in real and up close they look a bit dimmer than the right and not so even as well.




0.20 seconds and onwards

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Nov 5 2016, 12:00 PM

Both look bright from a distance and on camera. My problem now is basically about the DRL's colour difference and potentially brightness as well, where the left headlamp DRL is slightly more blue from far and slightly blue/green and less even and bright up close, and the right headlamp's DRL having a pure warm white colour which seems to be correct one. I've watched the video I posted earlier and some others, and their DRLs have the same colour. It's easier to see the colour difference in person. Now that I think about it, I believe the problem was there since the day I got the car, but I probably brushed it off as I thought it was due to angle, plus it's a little hard to look at both DRLs at the same time.


Edit: I don't believe this is to prevent people from getting blinded since they go dim once the low beams are on, plus they're supposed to be noticeable during day time anyway. If the colour difference is due to the angle, I think it would make sense if the right headlamp's DRL also becomes bluer at a certain angle, but it's not the case for my car. Now I'm just waiting for protong to reply my email, plus I've also already book a slot at CoE to get the thing inspected.

Edit: More pictures



This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Nov 7 2016, 07:41 PM

I think Protong will only replace the brake pads if you're having problems like squeaking, juddering etc. Brake pad is not covered for wear and tear.

I find it sufficiently bright with high performance halogen bulbs like the Philips Xtreme Vision +130%. It's much better with HID (I'm currently using 4200K Osram Xenarc). In terms of light pattern I don't see any difference in height, and don't really recall the beam length vs the Xtreme Vision +130%, but it's very good for me.

Edit: The problem with the original bulbs is that they're too yellow and dim. I drove my car out of the dealership at 8pm onto a street with no street lights and could barely see much.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Nov 20 2016, 09:05 PM

Went to the SC today to check on a few things including my DRLs. Still no stock for seat, so nothing was replaced today. They ordered the LHS headlamp for me, so now I just need to wait for them to call.

RM650 at EA Autoworks, and yes, it is HID.


Edit: For anyone who's looking to switch to HIDs as well but cannot decide on the colour, 4200K still has some yellow in it (when viewed from inside the car). From outside it's white. Depending on the time of the day it could either be pure white or white with slight hints of yellow. The ideal colour for me is probably between 4400K~ 5000K, but too bad EA Auto only carries 4200K and 6000K HIDs.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Nov 26 2016, 01:36 PM

I don't remember hearing loud turbo spooling noise when accelerating over 5k rpm. Might want to bring your car to be inspected.

Edit: Also the rpm should go over 5k easily if you push hard.
---

Saw a silver suprima s today on the federal to pj/kl with a non functioning right drl I wonder if it's disconnected or defective

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 2 2016, 08:33 AM

I went with 4200k. It still has some yellow in it and will not always be as white as the DRLs. Not always because mine can also appear to be completely white depending on the time and weather.

I believe that the ideal temperature should be around 4500k to 5000k if you want it to match the DRLs.

Edit: not sure about the Oct because I haven't done my second service, but I don't expect it to be a problem.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Dec 3 2016, 01:03 AM

Stiffer than say a Honda City or Toyota Vios. It's still comfortable to me. I think the car would be ideal for you if it has telescopic steering. For me it'd be telescopic steering and electric seat for the minute adjustments.