Engine mounting is wear and tear part. Sooner or later u need to replace them when the car start to vibrate abnormally especially when you can feel it from the steering wheel.

Just chemical cleaned the throttle located behind the air filter. Lots of carbon accumulation in the throttle and after cleaning can feel the car more powerful. My car is already 4 yrs + never clean before.

Example of throttle opening in red circle after removal of hose and air filter.

Just to share, finally fixed my engine vibration issue happened everyday at cold start even afternoon and evening. The engine vibration can be felt from steering wheel and even can feel something loose from dashboard or in the engine compartment. The vibration only settle down after running the engine hot and even when it's hot can still feel something not right. Did throttle chemical cleaning but it did not solve the issue. Finally changed the gearbox (RM160+) and engine (RM170+) mounting and boom problem solved and now felt like driving a new car . It seems like the mounting only last me for about 4 yrs. Hopefully the new mounting from different Proton supplier can last longer compare to old mounting which was told that previous supplier provide low quality mounting.

No. Hopefully it'll last. The SC didn't suggest it cause they're still ok.

FYI just done recall replacement of flywheel, CVT damper, crankshaft bolt and including replacement of CVT oil free of charge. However you need to pay for alignment about RM26.50. If you want to proceed with the replacement, be prepare to leave your car for few days. So far felt little bit improvement like more smooth and more responsive when going up ramp. I was advised to temporary restrain from stepping drastically on the throttle.

Any place near PJ SS2 area can recommend to service brake caliper. I had service many time my rear brake still making noise just one side. Don't intend to change brake pad still thick. Complain many times at Proton SC only clean the brake pad. It only stay quiet for a short period of time than come back again the squeaky sound. The sound only happen at beginning use of the brake usually next day or park for long hours. I want to try service brake caliper see can solve problem.

Good for long term investment, just imagine I service the brake already RM60 labor. I'm trying a temporary solution by cleaning the brake using WD-40 brake cleaner about RM25. A lot of DIY effort opening the tyre and spraying it on brake disc and caliper near the brake pad clip. Had to be extra careful when DIY make sure block other tyre with brick to prevent unnecessary movement and gear in P. Put the opened tyre underneath the car just in case... Release handbrake if you want to turn the rear wheels. The rear disc is quite rusty and the caliper dirty. Spray them and wipe them with old cloth. So far so good no loud squeaking sound. There's a lot of servicing can be done with the caliper eg. clean brake pad clip, clean the brake pad, clean the caliper pin and even replace the caliper piston seal.



This post has been edited by merinyu: Jun 23 2019, 09:27 PM

I have the rattling sound on the left door. Can't pinpoint where's the source of the sound. Looks like something loose but when apply pressure on the door no sound. Don't know what else to do no visible screw to tighten.

Yes you are right don't spray on the brake pad instead use sand paper to clean the pads. I didn't open the caliper, don't have the tools to open and grease to lubricate it.

This post has been edited by merinyu: Jun 24 2019, 01:50 PM

Not cheap doing insulfex unless DIY. Saw a lowyat forum providing insulfex at RM600 - 800 for 4 doors(3 layers).

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=26353813

Finally bought the tools to remove the rear caliper pins and brake pads to lubricate them. Buying two wrenches would cost about RM12 but in the end I bought 8-24mm (14pcs) for RM24. I'm just short of 13mm and 15mm wrench. The 13mm is for the caliper pin screw and 12mm to loosen the handbrake cable so that you can open the caliper. 15mm is for the caliper pin itself just incase it rotate when you tighten the screw. There's a brake fluid hose and handbrake cable attached to the rear caliper. No need to remove the hose or cable just loosen the handbrake cable by removing the 12mm screw holding it. The caliper pins is quite short with no rubber attached to the end of it. Looks like the grease already turn black and dried up. Remove the old dried black grease with old cloth. Apply Toyo Australia - Brake Caliper @ Rubber Grease Fully Synthetic (RM24). Also cleaned the brake pad clip but can't perfectly clean it forgot to but metal brush. Put some grease also on the clips and brake pad ears. Sand the brake pads also. By the way the rear caliper is TRW brand.

Will see whether it'll stop the squeaking sound. Before that I just cleaning the brake disc with WD-40 brake cleaner but improve a little bit but still have the squeaking sound from time to time.

This post has been edited by merinyu: Jul 7 2019, 08:35 PM

Finally changed all front and rear brake pads with TRW brand DTEC model. Looks like the squeaking brake sound is caused by defective original Proton brake pads . After so many years of suffering hearing the squeaking brake sound which can be easily solved by changing the brake pads . Before that sayang ma to change the brake pads still thick and hardly used.

This post has been edited by merinyu: Nov 22 2019, 08:58 PM

Price include labour charges
Front RM160 for both left n right wheels
Rear RM120 for both left n right wheels

Just to share my SS reverse camera finally died after 5yrs of use. It costs RM280 for the original replacement part. Labour charge for installation at SC is RM50. Thought of DIY but don't dare to risk cutting wire and wrong connection might shock the fuse. If do it at accessories shop will be cheaper but not the original wiring maybe cut here and there.

The original camera looks simple but very costly compare to readily available cam in market. Only difference is the wiring.

Just changed 2 front tyres to new ps4 RM400 each. Year 2020 but made in China. My old tyres were also ps4 but it only last me almost 4yrs. Very bad condition had to change caused the sides bunga koyak like kulit peel off. Distant driven these tyres about 36K km.

Did alignment and was told to change camber screws both front RM150. Jaw drop tak jadi change.

This post has been edited by merinyu: Aug 23 2020, 07:05 PM

Today check my tyre pressure with 70mai Lite air pump was shock all the tyres was pumped until 40+ psi. Proton recommend 32psi front and 30psi rear. No wonder the steering was so light and I can feel the car like floating.

Changed my car out of spec battery causing weird warning light when start car. The battery is already 2yrs. SC told the battery was over power can cause electronics to fry. For pass few days having problem starting car and need to try 3 x only can start. Furthermore CVT warning light comes up. No low battery indicator at all.

SC scan and found lots of error most probably due to out of spec battery.

Ask SC about camber screw was told not to simply change the front camber screw as always requested by tyre shop. There's always some minor negative reading. It could be manufacturing design purposely not set to neutral.

If have warning light indicator on for both parking brake and ESC while driving then one of the possible cause is brake switch. It only costs RM24 at SC. So far no more that warning light which previously happened quite often.

Normally brake switch main problem is when you brake lights turn on even you don't press the brake.