ECU reflashing SB100465 was applied to my SS when i send it in for warranty claims.
I did not specifically ask for it.

Anyways I found the CVT clutch bite and release is less noticeable. No more very slight jerk when I feather the throttle after releasing it.

So far so good. Didn't notice the throttle response as oledi running on "cheat box".

100% town driving = 10.6l / 100km

i dont get to do hiway or mixed driving on my general driving.

Hahaha...info from FB is now here. Only thing to note it only works on f/w 7.8x.
7.26 this hack not possible

I just buy any wiper blade from supermarket and cut to correct length and fit into existing wiper blade holder

Being a race chip user, there is a slight increase in pulling power from jz about 2000 to 4500rpm. Better midrange. Top end not much difference. Above 4500 rpm is noise up to 6000rpm.

I hear MBO will help with top end as it is a remap and racechip will work better with it.
Anyways I dont live anywhere near EA so I'm not taking up that option.

Now looking for 2nd hand Works open pod setup with CAI.

Haha, my car is a daily drive so I can't really afford to do that. If I have time when I make the trip down to KL I might visit his shop. I knew him personally for more than 10 yrs liao. RM500+ for remap is abit too much for me to spend on car for now. Have other priorities :)

My racechip also went back to HQ for f/w upgrade as I bought 2nd hand unit and it was a 1st gen design.

i also trying to find this out, cant find any guide anywhere. front door card seems to be stuck near the side mirror there

OCH get it checked to see if it has hardened and needs replacement, CVT oil if unsure when was last replaced, fresh engine oil + filter, clean air filter element, check for leaks at CVT cooler

thank you sir! that would explain why that part of the door card is like impossible to loosen. i found the rest of the screws you mentioned.

my car suffers from vibration on door panel due to CVT. if i put house keys in the door top pocket next to the window controls it will vibrate and its very irritating.

i've changed 1 set engine mounting under warranty and there is no difference before and after

however due to the mid bass speaker on the door, i found the plastic splashguard inside the door and the door wiring are vibrating according to bass beat

what i did was glue pieces of insulfex onto the existing fiber noise insulation pieces and it solved the problem

repeat on passenger side for maximum effect

it stops the plastic and wiring from vibrating against the metal

none that i know off due to the design of the front and rear sensors included into the LCD display

front and rear parking sensors you need to change as they wont work anymore
OCH is 40k kms or 2 yrs

Depends on your budget, there is different level of best based on how much you willing to spend

my 4.5 yrs old Suprima S has had engine oils ranging from Syntium 3000 and Syntium 800 depending and mileage of 50+k kms, CVT fine, OCH fine basically replace on time with the correct oils is fine. Alot of OCH burst cases is due to didnt change on time, used additives which clogged up the cooler raising the pressure or using 3rd party hoses or silicon hoses.

CVT gear oil must be the right spec, not any CVT oil to ensure longevity and do not creep on traffic lights. Do not hard launch from stationary always.

Turbo doesnt need servicing if the right engine oil has always been used, it wont clog but can inspect the intake vanes for traces of oil

check the a/c belt condition also if high mileage or car above 5 yrs

This post has been edited by laytiong: Dec 24 2020, 09:13 AM

no i only used proton OCH and changed every 2yrs, never failed never burst, and i dont use any additive in the engine oil

car sold at almost 8 yrs old