A bit off topic here, but you can try using some external lighting instead of using the camera flash. That should give u better results when taking photos. Also, adjusting the color balance in photoshop tends to help a lot too in making the photos clearer.

hmm.. personally, me dun like the gold plating actually, gives it too much of a cartoonish look. Also, u're gonna get chips off the gold plating at the spots where u cut the parts off the frame.

beckzaidan's proposal sounds much better to me, DIY gold plating.

This pic should give clues on which model I'm currently working on

Actually, what I meant was at the spots where u do the cutting. The gold plating is only on the surface, so when u do the cutting, there'll be non gold plated plastic exposed already. Not to mention that all you can do is cut properly, as sanding is far more difficult to do

hhhhmmmmm... a 1/100 MG Whitebase So we can keep all our existing 1/100 MG models inside

oh damn.. just realized that I'm gonna need a far bigger house to store that 1/100 MG Whitebase in.. argh!

Version Kuda? How about this one instead?

U should be able to fit the pin into the pen grip of a x-acto knife

Hmm.. try submerging the can into warm water for a while then shake even more again?

The types of solutions will differ greatly, depending on the type of paints used. Basically, for Tamiya acrylic, washing detergent works wonders.

I tend to use a 50/50 mix of dish washing detergent and the laundry detergent powder. Soak the plastic in there for like 30 minutes, then rinse and scrub. The paint dissapears like magic, even those that's been painted for years already.

But that's not as effective against other acrylic types such as Vallejo or Citadel. For those, I tend to add in some Dettol into the mix, and soak longer. An alternative to Dettol will be PineSol (u can find this at Ace's Hardware), which is cheaper and stronger. PineSol's basically like Dettol but for cleaning floors lar.

Not too sure how well the detergent mix will work with the Mr Hobby colors though, can give it a try and see. Shouldnt be any harm, especially when the mix is confirmed to not harm the plastic.

Larger than normal MG EX-S... Likely to be a resin garage kit. Not for the faint of heart to do

No problems! I'm sure that a lot of those here will gladly do up your gunplas for you

Well, depends on what's causing the problems lar... If its the plastic surface that's the problem, then the primer will help a lot.

In height, probly not. In total bulk, hard to say lar... I would hate to imagine what the cost of a MG Nightingale will be like though...

hmmmmm.. anybody even considered before, the chances of a 1/1 scale MG Haro?

Ok, I've never used those markers before, so I don't really know how the finishing is like when used for coloring surfaces. But normally I suspect that you wont be able to get a nice smooth surface. Its one thing to do lines using markers, but its another for surfacing work.

Hmm.. if u do not want to put in the money into spray and airbrushes, its better to use hand brushes. Besides, the sort of detailed work that a SD model has got (from my experience doing the red SD Astray), u can't really do much spraying work, as there's too much details to be painted.

For instance, small pieces that comes in white plastic, but certain parts will need to be painted red, or red plastic, with some parts to be painted white. And better yet, the feet's black plastic, with certain parts to be painted red.

Also bear in mind that I've never used those markers, but getting a coat of red to cover black plastic is damn difficult, and its very rare that u can find paints that can do that nicely. So far, the paints with the strongest pigments suitable for such covering up of dark colors that I've encountered will either be Vallejo (damn hard to find here now, so need to order from overseas), or Citadel.

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Added on April 2, 2007, 1:02 amOr how about a Junior Mobile Suit, complete with the figuring of Mr Wong Lee? Gotta love the fellow's corrective methods

This post has been edited by fyire: Apr 2 2007, 01:02 AM

Or how about a Junior Mobile Suit, complete with the figuring of Mr Wong Lee? :) Gotta love the fellow's correctiv

Mr. Color should be pretty ok. I've never used it though. Hmm.. another trick that u can do for the coloring on dark surfaces is to first paint on white, then the actual color.

Hmmmm.. white.. the really dreaded whites

Actually there's a trick to it. Pure pure white is extremely hard to apply properly. So I don't bother with applying pure white. Guess what's the next best thing to do? Something that most ppl wont think of, which is to put a tiny drop of black into the white.

Having that drop of black will help to strengthen the pigment of the paint, + reduce the shade of white by a tiny bit (not noticable at all, unless u're to look really really closely under very bright light).

That helps wonders in getting a proper shade of white to go. The mix that I personally use is like:
- 50/50 mix of Tamiya White + Citadel White
- one drop of Citadel black
- one drop of Citadel dwarf flesh

I like combining Tamiya with Citadel. Citadel paints has got very good pigments, and the lighter base of Tamiya helps the paint spread over the plastic a lot better. Apply in thin coats, normally takes either 2 or 3 coats to get a nice even coat. Don't worry about the brush marks as you paint it on if u r to use that mix that I use, as the brush marks will even itself out before the paint dries.

My latest project ACGUY (also my first attempt at airbrushing)

Depending on what its for. For hand brushing, 1:1 is about right, but this depends a lot on the paint. To be more accurate, its at least 1:1. The general rule of thumb is that as long as the paint runs like milk, then u got it right.

Hmm.. something that I just discovered as well. If airbrushing using Tamiya, putting a bit of methylated spirits into the mix tends to help a lot.