Ok, these r not models, but thought to post them anyways.

the AEUG MK II drawn out and rendered in Maya by my cousins (plural 'cause they're twins), based on the scans of the manual that I emailed to them.

This post has been edited by fyire: Jan 30 2007, 11:51 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

hmm.. seems that hand painting does use a lot less paint compared to air brushing.

I dun suppose there's any chance of a HG Destroy? I guess MG Destroy's kinda out of the question

Nice I guess that's the one nice thing about using an air brush, being able to get such metalic effects using gold or silver. The only way I can think of to obtain the same result using hand brush is to wash a very very diluted gold or silver onto the surface, but that's damn hard to control lar...

hmm... when I get back home, I'll take a pic of me tool box so your eyes can budge out in regards to how many cans of paints I've collected over the years

That's a rather common advice among those who do models actually, especially those 25mm metal miniatures. The reason is to wash off whatever chemical residues that may still be on the plastic. Those r the chemicals that allows the plastic to come off easier from the mold.

But yeah, scratch too hard also it will come off eventually

Well, actually I make sure not to cut my nails when I'm doing these kinda models. After finishing the model, there'll be plenty of cuts and scratches on my nails, from the razor sharp hobby knife when I'm trimming out the smaller parts (maybe its just how I hold the stuff lar).

But 300078's suggestion of wearing a glove is good too. Not just the preventing scratching with your nails bit, but help prevents any dirt or grease from your fingers from settling down onto any surface where you might to paint over, resulting in problems for the paint to stick better.

All of mine r currently done on water based acrylics (mix of Tamiya, Humbrol and Citadel). You'll need to experiment abouts to see what gives u better effects and so forth, as there's no one single correct way.

Well, its the most important to do the actual airbrushing work out in the open. But once u've done the airbrushing, you can always bring the parts back into your room to let it dry off. There will still be fumes I guess, but far less than compared to spraying inside your room itself.

I quite like the AC series actually. All in all its pretty good, but still cannot compare to Bandai lar... Once u're stuck on Bandai stuff, there's just no turning back.

The AC Mirage that I did? The plastic quality's pretty good. For something that size, its pretty detailed, more than a Bandai HG kit, but lacks the internal frame of the Bandai MGs. Only grumble that I've got is the knee joints r a bit shakey, 'cause the PC in them is a bit loose. Guess I'll take it apart later on to stuff some PVC glue in there so the PC stays in place better to fix that problem.

Hmm.. kit color dun make much difference to me though, since I tend to paint anyways

What kinda paint? Acrylic or enamel? For the acrylics that I use, there's a very effective paint stripper I use that's very plastic safe too.

Mix of laundy detergent, dish washing detergent and dettol. Put quite a concentrate mix into water, then dump all the stuff in there to soak for 12 hours or so. Then just scrub using a tooth brush under running water. You might want to wear rubber gloves though, as that kinda detergent mix can really get the skin on your fingers peeling.

For the acrylics that this can work on, its far more effective than using thinner. Thinner melts down the paint, hence needing hell of a lot of wipinng and so on and is damn messy, while the detergent mix breaks down the paint instead of melting it. So nothing sticky to worry about, and all washable by just water.

Its actually possible to produce the glowing eyes thingy without the stickers. Normally what I tend to do is to paint on the insides of the clear plastic for the eyes. You'll need to take the photograph at a certain angle, or better yet if you've got an external flash unit. The light reflecting off the eye piece can produce that glowing effect

Just got me next kit.. the Nu Gundam MG that I've been wanting to get for ages

Only RM155 from Diamond Comic (and last one too!).

Mixing me paints now, so I can start on it tomorrow.. hehe

Want both actually But well, for RM155 down from the RM280 that it used to be, its a real big bargain

Hmm.. just realized that the Hi-Nu is smaller in size than the Nu

Oooo.. nice.. that's the same kit I just picked up today Got any pics of your finished one?

Hmm... ever thought of going for the non Gundams? Maybe a Kampfer, or a Qubeley or a Gelgoog?

Depends I guess. The shortest time I've ever done a model is in 5 days. On average, it takes me about 7-8 days or so.

Check out Ace Hardware. They've got pretty good and affordable crafting knives and replacement blades

hehe.. nail clipper should be fine, as long as its really sharp. as for knives, even one of those razor sharp pen knives for cutting paper will do.

And well, no matter what kinda equipment u use, your fingers will still be hurting at the end of it lar... no avoiding that

Well, if there's a lack of a hobby plier, normal pliers and nail clipper can still be used actually, but only to remove the piece from the framings. Then the excess plastics will need to be trimmed down with a sharp knife and sanded if needed.

Just dun try to cut too deep with normal pliers or nail clippers