Personally I would use acrylic, as I find those easier and less messy to use. A lot easier to strip off the paint too if u make mistakes, where in the case of enamels, u can only use thinner (and there's the risk of the thinner melting the plastic if its too strong). There's those who swears by enamel paints though.

Anyways, what did u paint your RX-79 with previously? If acrylic, then its best to use acrylic again.

Hmm.. Tamiya white. Its got miserable paint consistency. One trick is to add a tiny drop of black into your mix when u're thinning down the paint. Its to reduce the color by a tiny bit into a very very very light gray. That'll be a lot easier to paint on nicely compared to pure pure white.

Well, the popular Mr Surfacer primer used by a lot of ppl here is lacquer based as well. I guess more towards the ease of handling that most ppl decide on using acrylic instead of lacquer or enamel.

The heavier bit can be adjusted depending on the amount of thinner that you use. But one thing about lacquer is that it dries extremely fast. I guess if u're just looking at simple coating of the model is single colors, then its alright, but when it comes to weathering work or shading, it gets more difficult, especially when u're using spray cans, where u're not able to adjust the spray velocity and also amount of paint coming out of the nozel.

For airbrushing, I'll definetely use acrylics, as its far easier to clean the airbrush than compared to using enamels or lacquer.

Then just go into seed mode and pwn the entire camp with your bare hands lor

But still cant beat the sastisfaction of doing up a PG Or the amount of headbanging that goes on should one mess up a PG.

Depends on the person's preferences I guess. For me personally, I liked the rugged Zaku bits the best.

Bah! Quite a lot of the new gundams looks like a stick. Skinny and all. That's why the MKII rocks!

I've been using acrylic paints all this time. Put on a good protective coating after u finish painting, and that's it.

I've seen a nicely done up (and real huge!) model of this once, at that hobby shop that used to be at 1U, near the cinema. Its not a bandai model though, but a garage kit type, made out of resin.

What I would do is to spray on black as the base coat, highlight with brown (optional), then spray on a matt gold finish.

Hmm.. then again, depending on the pigment strength of the gold paint, it might be a better idea to use a base coat of brown, or mix of brown and yellow instead of black. If the gold paint's pigment strenght is rather low, then it wont be able to fully cover the black base coat

This post has been edited by fyire: Apr 21 2007, 03:51 PM

Speaking of that, anybody knows if resin gundam kits r available in Malaysia?

Depends a lot on the asking price and also the model itself actually. Which ones have u got?

To be honest, there's no real one answer for that question. Different ppl has got different preferences, but method a) is the one that's least likely lar.

I do a slightly different variation of that. I apply the base coat to the pieces first. Then do a test fit on them to get a bigger picture of it, on where's the spots that I should darken and so on. Some areas, I'll dismantle for shading, while others I'll shade while partially assembled.

Wow.. how u managed to deform lar? probly used too much force there I think...

AB I guess will be the initial investment cost, a bit on the high side, but if u do these models regularly, then its a good investment lar...

controlling the AB pen isnt that difficult actually, as I had found out. The trick is to use a low PSI setting on the compressor, so that u get more control. And the paint has to be pretty dilute too.


Spray cans will be ok I guess for the base coats, but u'll need to proceed onto hand painting for the rest already

Enamels, really hard to say lar.. I guess the only way to find out is to try the different types of thinners that u can get from those hardware shops. Since u got a few deformed NG ones, u can probly scrap one of those, and try differnet thinners on different parts and see. U'll need one that can strip the paint, but yet not melt the plastic.

An invitation to DIY Ver.Ka?

Hmm.. the PG Zakus r kinda the same too actually.