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> LYN OFFICIAL VAPING THREAD V34, Salam Aidilfitri From LYNV - Bepon!

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Eiraku
post Aug 1 2016, 11:30 PM

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QUOTE(andyng38 @ Aug 1 2016, 11:10 PM)
I'll get one of those when it comes with a pizza slicer attachment! biggrin.gif

Yeah bro...me too. When local shops stock it, I'll be right there waiting with sweaty palms!
*
Lolz Bro pizza slicer.

Myself I'm gonna sit out the 75. I already got my DNA fix (which conveniently scratches my high wattage itch as well) and truthfully, my ADVing is fine with the 'lil Pico (even if the 'Cado never tasted as good as when I put it on the VT today).

ADV setups are meant to "just work" anyway, and as much as we like to imagine otherwise, DNAs really do need time sunk into them for them to really work well, even if just for the basic necessities (mod calibration, battery calibration, temp calibration, setting up profiles and materials...).

Now I'm just gonna sit and wait for Bluetooth ready DNA with eScribe App control.

On another note, I have *finally* cracked the Twisted SS TC code with the VT. Just generated a proper TCR for twisted 316L and my VeloV2 is now doing rock solid consistent TC (woo!). Plus that extra power on preheat is very much helping offset that ramp up.

Plus, with my seals and gaskets in place, I'm finally a bit more confident that the "juicy" VeloV2 isn't gonna end up juicing my VT to death lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 1 2016, 11:38 PM
Eiraku
post Aug 2 2016, 01:15 AM

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QUOTE(andyng38 @ Aug 2 2016, 12:03 AM)
RM350 isn't a bad price lah. Hope u receive it soon!

One thing about these auctions, I really have my doubts because there isn't any mechanism to safeguard genuine bidders from shills/joybidders. So I prefer to just look around for a shop selling at a decent price.
*
Back to the first rule of auctions then: Know the market value of what you're bidding for. This is usually enough to keep you from being burned, especially when "market value" is FT price (for hardware) or Shopee price (for juice).

Though people usually forget the second rule while in the heat of bidding: Never overbid. Set a max price you're willing to go for and stick with it. Shills can inflate the price all they want but once you hit your cap, just start no no-ing and let other people waste their money.

In the thick of the action however, I can attest that this is usually easier said then done, especially if you haven't had considerable eBay sniping experience. The pressure can be overwhelming lol.

Keep to these two rules and you'll be happy for days. Or at least until you squander all your monies away lol.

Which reminds me, need to prepare for my weekend auction resupply of ADV juices soon. I wonder what's on the menu this week.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 2 2016, 08:25 AM
Eiraku
post Aug 2 2016, 08:21 AM

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QUOTE(Banoque @ Aug 2 2016, 01:18 AM)
Bros..

I am going to Perth this Saturday..wanna bring my vape set..need advice.
Thanks in advance.
*
Ooooh Aussie. That's gonna be considerably tough. Not Singapore tough, but boleh tahan. TBH, I haven't been to recently though, so I can't give specific advice. General ones I can though.

First advice, bring a beater mod and tank. Why? So that if they DO confiscate it, you're not gonna feel it as badly as with a more expensive device.

Second advice, bring a "covert backup" device. I have one 510 flashlight attachment that converts mechs to flashlights (FT sells 'em) for this very reason, and I bring loose cartomisers for it. Why? If they raid you of all your primary gear, THIS is gonna be the one to tide you over for the duration of your trip.

Third, Google for means of getting stuff at the location itself, undertable or otherwise, just in case you *do* lose everything. Unless you wanna go back to stinkies, that is.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 2 2016, 08:26 AM
Eiraku
post Aug 2 2016, 03:29 PM

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QUOTE(roshen43 @ Aug 2 2016, 02:39 PM)
hi sifu sifu vape.. may i know what is the best tank for flavour?
*
Kepan, Taipun, Abokado, Hurikan, Torunado, Gobilin Mini Tiga, Asmaranizer V2/Superim, Piko.

At least but the comments here, the internets (and my personal experience) ler.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 2 2016, 03:47 PM
Eiraku
post Aug 2 2016, 03:48 PM

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QUOTE(snake1983 @ Aug 2 2016, 03:40 PM)
Hcigar vt75 nano or therion 75 by lostvape which one, FT is selling 99usd and 119 usd. single batt vs dual.
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LostBape better build quality and batt life. Nano cheaper and smaller.
Eiraku
post Aug 3 2016, 01:28 AM

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Ehem.... as much as I like to see both of my most trusted poisoners carry on in heated discussion, especially when it comes to Vape technicalities, I find that it's often more prudent when the parties involved ended up agreeing to disagree.

Vaping, as much as we like to think of it as something scientific with a deep body of knowledge behind it... isn't really. And much of it is still pretty much black magic and mambo jumbo... and it's just made worse by the fact that it's a very subjective thing that highly depends on personal preferences.

Like personally I always thought that the DNA hype was... you know... just hype (or justification from a bunch of folks who got duped into buying an overly expensive device with an overly rated chipboard). But if there's one thing I've learnt from my experiences with audiophilia, it's pretty much something that varies *a lot* from person to person... and there *was* still room for truth amidst the hype.

Hence, I got myself a DNA mod and was pleasantly surprised (I still am).

Back to the topic at hand, is many small coils better then two large ones? Is more airflow better then less? Well, while we can whip out tools to measure airflow... the end result is still *very* much debatable and subject to personal preferences.

While Atty A might be said to be capable of whatever watts (which, is really mostly just exaggerated manufacturers claims to me - though, as always, I stand to be corrected), it might not mean that it would run the said watts comfortably or optimally. To take a very distantly related example, the 213.

Similarly, for Atty B, it's not exactly fair to assume airflow from looking at pictures/diagrams alone. I mean I took one look at the GMv3's new spitback chimney and thought "shit airflow, shit flavour". Yet apparently, from reviews slowly hitting Reddit, it actually does quite well and apparently has comparative (or maybe even better) airflow and flavour vs the v2.

As such, unless someone decides to get both the atomisers involved and set themselves up (and, to make it fair, rope in some innocent bystanding vapers) to a A-B blind test, and prepare a bunch of tools for objective measurements; it's pretty much a battle of split hairs.

So, to both my long time sifus, please play nice. You're gonna scare the nubises.

Just felt like throwing my 20 cents to the fray. No offence meant.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 3 2016, 04:15 AM
Eiraku
post Aug 3 2016, 04:40 AM

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QUOTE(gunners_my @ Aug 2 2016, 08:37 PM)
Folks.. on TC, which one u guys using? All this while, I am on ni200... but, to coil it really tough compares to those days khantal. haven't tried titanium.. existing mod not supporting ss... so, any advice on which one is actually better if I am on the recoiling side (not occ)?
*
I'm doing 316l SS as of now. It's dry burnable (as long as you don't overdo it). It's vapable in power mode. It tastes relatively clean. It's readily available (in straight and clapton forms). It's easy to work (and play) with. Finally, most SS friendly TC chips are set for use with 316l as well.

Cons? It needs specific SS capable chips/mods for TC, and even if the mods are said to be SS capable, it needs to be sensitive enough for 316l's low ohm/temp characteristics... and often you need to run your coils spaced for "proper" TC.

That said, there IS a way to trick *some* Ni/Ti TC mods into TC-ing with SS. Here's something I pulled off Reddit:

QUOTE
Use Ti mode but with a lower temperature if the mod doesnt support SS. Works great for me on an IPV D2 with SS coils at 50j and 260F.

*50j is about 50w for other mods.

Ni only TC mods need to be run at 40-60f to be able to TC with SS, so it's gonna be quite hard (especially with the DNA40, which only does 100f minimum) but it might be doable.

Keep in mind, the "trick" isn't gonna give you "proper" or "accurate" SS TC, but at least it'll work.

For more SS info check out the spoilers below:

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

As for Nickel, personally I'm not a fan. It's hard to build with, you can't dry burn it without risking meltdowns and when you vape it in power mode by accident, you might get some weird toxic crap in your vape (generally still debated, but has some basis in truth).

Similarly, Titanium (TiO fumes = bad). But at least Ti is "dry pulsable" (you can dry burn it in very short bursts) and it's easy to work with so for me that makes it better than Ni already.

So yeah: SS > Ti > Ni for me. Either try out the SS/Ti trick, or just use Ti (but remember to ONLY dry pulse it).

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 3 2016, 08:28 AM
Eiraku
post Aug 3 2016, 11:52 AM

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Naked 100 Lava Flow review up: http://goo.gl/W91lTh

Direct link to my vape reviews so far are in my siggy for anybody interested.

Next up: the VT133.
Eiraku
post Aug 3 2016, 06:35 PM

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QUOTE(jameslionhart @ Aug 3 2016, 12:49 PM)
Totally agree on that part as I'm an audiophile as well. Is not about the price or brand. Is about personal preferences.

My experience is on DNA and SX. Fired the same tank (russian 91%), same homebrew juice at the same ohm & wattage (1.74 ohm, 11w). The taste somehow is better, more intense and warmer on SX350j instead of DNA200.
*
Hmm, interesting findings. I probably need to get a Yihi mod too one of these days just for the sake of SCIENCE!

That said, I pretty much vape TC almost exclusively nowadays, and it's been the TC performance of the DNA board that has been leaving such an impression on me so far. A smooth, flavourful vape at around the user-set temp - all the time, every time.

Compared to what the JT board in both my Pico and VTC is doing which is really just "temp limiting" rather than consistent "temp regulation".

Also, eScribe... which is both a blessing (endless tweaking woohoo) and a curse (why the eff can't I just adjust preheat ON DEVICE damnit... and calibrations, calibrations everywhere), but let's save that for another long post.

As for the difference in straight power delivery, that's maybe (maybe) because the Yihi chip is possibly more honest about its wattage delivery... as in 30J being an actual straight 30W/s rather than.... say 25.6W/s.

Or maybe it's the reverse lol: 30J is actually like 35W/s.

Or *maybe* it's just the differences in how they modulate their power.

Though in the end it really doesn't matter because personal preference are, after all, personal preference lol.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 3 2016, 07:37 PM
Eiraku
post Aug 3 2016, 07:18 PM

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QUOTE(ImSIEBEL @ Aug 3 2016, 06:47 PM)
Just bought a limitless colour changing rda from erico vape lounge. So far i notice they are the only seller in malaysia that sells original limitless mod/atty.

The thing is i bought the green colour. ( dark green ) and when it heats up it changes to a bright green. Mine did but its not changing back to the original colour when its not heated up. Asked the shop they say cant do anything. Do u think its worth emailing limitless cust care ? They have an cust care email tho.
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Is it still bright green now? Looked at a few vids online an while it looks pretty sensitive turning bright green with heat, seems that it takes a whole lotta time to turn back dark.

If it's still bright green after a few hours, try contacting their CS directly and see if they have any idea of what's going on.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 3 2016, 07:29 PM
Eiraku
post Aug 4 2016, 12:47 AM

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QUOTE(jameslionhart @ Aug 3 2016, 10:47 PM)
Didn't play with TC yet. Taking a step at a time. A friend shared that Ni is hazardous la after exceeding certain temp, SS need to wash with water first after the first burn before vaping la. So a bit takut la. Two things I have not starting to learn yet. TC and battery/output calculation (especially for mech mod).  sad.gif
*
Ni is hazardous exceeding a certain temp yes (which is kinda low, thus the no dry burn rule). Ti is too, but the threshold is higher (hence dry-pulsable). SS ALSO gives out toxic HexaChrome, but only at welding temps/melting point (which we never really reach, unless you short a coil hotleg until it melts.

Like everything else, use those three by the specs and they're pretty much harmless. Though Ni's extreme softness and the fact that it's not dry-burnable makes it a hassle (at least for me) to use for TC.

As for the wash SS with water part, that's just to clear out carbon particles that gets released when the SS oxidises. Sure, it's bad but it's a millionth to a magnitude smaller than all the carbon we get by just breathing while walking in the jammed up KL streets.

People usually wash it off anyway cause it makes the coils clean again... like we do with normal kanthal coils... so the point is pretty moot.

But yeah, one step at a time. Myself I only ventured into TC this year myself (after years of vaping) so taking your time is really not a problem. TC does help extend cotton and battery life though, which is really helpful.
Eiraku
post Aug 4 2016, 10:52 AM

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QUOTE(ZombieSeafood @ Aug 4 2016, 09:52 AM)
For you DNA board fans, Evolv is releasing a 60W and a 250W soon.

DNA 60

DNA 250


» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
Hmmm. No BT and mobile app control, not interested.

2A charging sounds dandy and all, hopefully they're implementing it without affecting overall battery health as batteries, especially dumb ones like our 18650s, don't like to be stress charged. Lipos can come with their own protection circuits though so it wouldn't matter.

That SS update sounds nice though, and it's quite generous of Evolve that us 200 users are getting it too.

6oLsh0i_6o0z3 Glad you enjoyed it. Will try to keep a steady stream of them going, but being the thrifty vaper that I am, updates will be... well... slow.

waqi953 The GMv3 looks like they have fixed most of the crap that plagued the v2, so it should be nice. I don't see the touted new JFC anywhere in it though, so that's a con. Whoooops it's there. Must have missed it somehow. Now I'm *sure* I'm getting one myself.

Another option would be the new Steam Crave Aromanizer Supreme Lite (fuuuuh). Think "improved Bellus" and you'll get an idea of what it is. Plus, it's not huge like the old Supreme was (23mm), and ALSO comes with an extended tank (you need to buy the GMv3 extension saperately IINM).

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 4 2016, 11:28 AM
Eiraku
post Aug 4 2016, 11:31 AM

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QUOTE(snake1983 @ Aug 4 2016, 11:09 AM)
something is on the way delivering to me today  rolleyes.gif  t h e r i 0 n
*
Hmmmmm moar Deenays. Henjoice Bro! If it's anything like the VT133 size, it should pair perfect with your V2.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 4 2016, 11:32 AM
Eiraku
post Aug 4 2016, 02:25 PM

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QUOTE(andyng38 @ Aug 4 2016, 01:55 PM)
Very cool! Maybe u could share yr profile settings with other DNA 75 users in here, esp those who are new to the chip eg snake1983? U guys could then compare notes/tweaks and make even better profiles.
*
What would be useful to share would be:

1) Chassis setup data (if the one provided isn't accurate enough, as per my VT133 - this includes mod resistance).

2) Battery curve data (25R5? HG2? 30Q?).

You CAN run calibrations for both if you want to though (batt cal recommended as not all batteries are born the same) but at least the mod resistance check requires either a bridge-soldered carto, a modified atty or a pure copper resistance test pin... all of which which is a bit harder to setup/get.

Or you can wait for a few folks to get it and test it and take an average from a few readings (common consensus for my VT seems to be about 0.004 ohms).

And that battery calibration test lol... didn't really have a lot of automotive resistors close at hand (lols) so I cobbled up a 1(-ish) ohm test rig from my Fodi with some kanthal:

user posted image

And no, you *don't* want to run that test with "normal" coils. Not even at low wattage. You will definitely melt something or another (unless you're running at 5w, which is hardly "representative"... and would take a whole lot more time to finish anyway).

Bloody test ran for the better part of 4-5 hours (at 40w) before it finished (and allowed me to go to sleep). Also, it read a tad lower than the expected usual, probably because it was a fresh set of HG2s and I haven't had time to put a few charge cycles through them yet.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 4 2016, 02:46 PM
Eiraku
post Aug 4 2016, 02:58 PM

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QUOTE(andyng38 @ Aug 4 2016, 02:51 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


We're gonna nerd out on the DNAs indeed biggrin.gif

Haven't run any calibrations yet. Gonna wait till the 2 triplets of new batts go thru 5 cycles of charging. Those married batts are solely for use in the Triade...so I guess u could say they're modnogamous. Did I just invent a new word?? biggrin.gif
*
No they're not. They're triplets. That's a real bad case of incestuous polygamy right there... laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif

Thankfully my Brown Korean Twins (sounds damn racist BTW) weren't tempted by the dark side and decided to keep themselves incestuously monogamous.

Have you heard about the stuff you need to do to keep 3 batteries married for the RX2/3 in 2-batt mode yet? Mooch is recommending that the involved parties take up swinging lol... laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 4 2016, 03:02 PM
Eiraku
post Aug 4 2016, 03:36 PM

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QUOTE(Tenggiling_Besi @ Aug 4 2016, 03:26 PM)
wow...reading all about DNAs in this tered is really making me feel like living in a cave...i have VS DNA40 but that was straight forward..DNA75 and DNA200 with eScribe sounds complicated rclxub.gif ...but makes me itching to have one...  tongue.gif
*
Don't worry, before April I was living in a mechanical cave summore, still trying to figure out why I should be bothering with watts back then lol.

And yes, to be comepletely honest, eScribing does make the DNA experience much more complicated. Flexible and versatile yes, but also at the same time you need to jump though THAR HOOPS OF FAIYAHHH to adjust some simple things you normally take for granted.

Like screen orientation (ugh). And preheat.... well, JT didn't even *have* preheat so I'm gonna discount Evolve a bit for this... but if there was ONE thing the Siglie-to-your-face 213 did right, it was the way they did preheat adjustment.

Not to mention you completely lose the ability to run custom TCR... if you don't have a PC anywhere close to you.

But firing is awesome. At least far, far awesomer then your normal, run of the mill JT chip. And (SS) TC so far has been an absolute dream. And being able completely configure a whole bunch of things... and then save everything into a file you can load up later (or share) is genius.

But will I switch all my mods for DNAs? Nope... at least not at this stage. Not until Evolve realises that plain 'ol MOAR POWAA isn't really the way to go.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 4 2016, 05:10 PM
Eiraku
post Aug 4 2016, 05:13 PM

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QUOTE(snake1983 @ Aug 4 2016, 05:08 PM)
What kind of battery profile you are setting? I read from the dna75 forum battery mod doesn't have much setting compare to dna200. So normally it just set it to default.
*
You still be better off with the proper discharge curves for whatever battery you're using Bro. HG2, 25R5, 30Q, VTC5 all have different curves, and the one provided should be just a one-size-fits-all curve.

At least that's how it works on the D200. Not sure if the D75 picked up discharge curve auto-learning somewhere along the way... but I don't think it did.

There's a battery test routine built into eScribe for you to self calibrate if you want to (with the proper rig, check out my previous post on that), but it's not gonna give you accurate reading on a freshly married pair of batteries anyway.

So you might be better of finding a curve for your batts online first and run with that. Also the proper WH setting for your batts (with the calculator provided).

And yes... all this *just* for a more accurate battery reading lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 4 2016, 05:28 PM
Eiraku
post Aug 5 2016, 05:25 PM

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Ehem...

user posted image

And before everyone goes ballistic, no I didn't buy either. Just felt like sharing. At VE SS15. Selling at 400-ish IINM (do check, I can't remember).

And yes, the Nano is *that* tiny. It's so tiny I'm vapelusting right now... just that I can't justify buying one AT ALL. So yeah, time to go no no now.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 5 2016, 05:38 PM
Eiraku
post Aug 5 2016, 06:47 PM

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QUOTE(snake1983 @ Aug 5 2016, 05:53 PM)
Somehow I prefer the vt75 instead of nano though. Quick update on therion battery life is improved full charge morning until now I have 75% battery life left. Cuboid should be 50-60% by now.
*
You prolly like your mods beefy. I like mine small so yeah, much vapelust.

In other news, my FT vs GB shipping battle is still going on... both hasn't arrived yet, as expected lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 5 2016, 07:18 PM
Eiraku
post Aug 5 2016, 08:45 PM

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QUOTE(andyng38 @ Aug 5 2016, 08:19 PM)
Size comparisons of the HCigar VT75 nano with other devices at 3:48.

Seems to be about the same as an Evic VTC Mini
*
Felt like it was built better, and fit better in the hands too. Otherwise it's about the size of the VTC, if not a hair thinner from the side.

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