Which SC is that? So nice.

Mine rear absorber leaking. SC kept quite until I find out and send the car for warranty. Only 1 side is replaced and have to pay rm15 for inspection fee somemore when I'm the one who telling them which side is leaking.

Locate the starter motor and hit it with wrench for a few times. If you are able to start the car after hitting the starter motor, get the starter replaced or serviced. The starter motor is normally locate beside the engine above transmission box.

BTW, I believe the computer sound thing is fuel pump in action.

If anyone has ticking sound over the car pillar and can't seems to fix the issue no matter what you have done, try to look for the seat belt tensioner. An easy fix will be a small piece of thin foam or a crush washer. This happens to many cars not only perodua. Mazda, BMW, nissan etc.


Attached thumbnail(s)

It is the B pillar, driver side.

This post has been edited by therain01: May 9 2017, 09:04 PM

The stock combustion setup is indeed slightly lean. Just wondering if replacing the injector makes the fuel mixture alot much richer or just nice?

Try to adjust the striker plate at the car boot. Adjust it inwards (towards the car).

Yes the U thing.

Thanks for the very useful information. 2 Thumbs up.

Try giving pressure to the car door when you heard ticking sound. If the ticking sound is gone when you give pressure to the door, then it's probably the striker plate hitting the door latch.

This one is a bit harder to solve because the striker is basically non adjustable. What you can do is spray a bit of white Lithium on the door latch. It should get partially dry a few days later and sound might be gone, or you can wrap anything you could get on the striker plate to make it thicker (I don't like this method though). Otherwise, loose the striker plate with T40 and tighten it again. Redo if sound still there on the next time until solved.

Good luck.

BKR5E 11?.i thought alza use colder plug with number 7 heat range and 9 mm gap?

The best way to fill in the correct amount of ATF is to measure how much ATF was drained, provided no leak and no overfill previously. Just for your information you could drain another 1 litre+ if you left the car sit idle for 2 days or more after the initial drain. This is what I do if I know I'm not going to use the car for the coming few days.

You could check the ATF level at cold range (20 - 30C) when you first started the car after filling the ATF. To check at hot the temperature is within 70-80C. I normally use Infrared temperature gun to check fluid temperature. To achieve that temperature it is about 10 mins drive of 80km/h.

Anyway, from the way you describe I hope it is just one of the transmission solenoid faulty. I suggest you to go back to perodua SC BRANCH and let them diagnose the fault code produce by AT. I think they charge around rm15 for inspection. At the same time pretend you never do the DIY oil change and hopefully your warranty still intact. Good luck.

Try to call 1800 88 6600 to check your car warranty. They will have every record about your car and the warranty entitlement from their system. Just don't forget to jot down the name of the person you talk to for verification purpose in case if information mismatch from service branch.

By right your warranty should be voided but who knows? No harm checking since you will have to send the car for fault code by official or outside workshop no matter how. I remember I was able to claim the first batch myvi front disk wrap which was over 3 years period and with remarkable 100k km mileage many years ago. Now they don't allow claim that easy anymore i guess but might come down to service center and person in charge. Who knows.

1. To to check with perodua authorized service center. Sometimes their small parts are cheaper than spare part shop.

2. I think that one is bumper. Normally people confuse bumper and bumper cover. I might be wrong though.

No. Don't ever allow major aircon service if your aircon perform correctly. They will have to remove dashboard to properly service the evaporator coil. Blower and cooling coil does not require cleaning as long as cabin filter is replaced periodically. unless you smoke alot in the car, but that wouldn't containminate the system in 60k km.

As for condenser coil, leave it as it. To replace the drier they will need to Remove the bumper. Normally drier last more than 100k km. You just have to use water to spray the condenser coil whenever you have your car wash. That's it.

If you must service the aircon, then just let them vacuum and refill the system. Anyway for me it just waste of money. Aircon system is sealed so the oil and gas is always there unless there's a leak.

Replace the backup fuse. For some reason the backup fuse is not really for backup. And yes it is for HU and meter memory. I remember you won't be able to turn on radio without the so called backup fuse.

If the gear shift like it used to then guess nothing serious. Probably sensor fault. Get the car to read for fault code to be sure.

Well it could be just wiring connecting to sensor misbehave. The AT will flash even if you remove wiring not connected directly to transmission, for example the sensor located at the air filter box.

Anyway, just send the car to SC since u have booked the slot. The fault code should be still there until someone wipe it. Perodua SC branch (not dealer} charge cheap at about rm15 I believe. Don't assume everything is fixed even it does not show anymore.

P2 service is not expensive. I would go back to service center if I don't DIY much.

If you prefer outside job, the only concern is don't send the car to third party for ATF drain and fill. Only P2 service center offer D3 SP.

Anyone tried 185/60/R15 on alza?

Are you able to find alternative reverse camera for alza advance which fit the existing bracket ? Please do share if you can find one.

Otherwise, i could send you the alza advance camera supplier in rawang if you can't find any alternative.