Coming from someone who has owned a unit of pre-FL FD2R and also FL FD2R, then swapped for a 2015 WRX STI, I can only say ... yes, it's faster, yes, it has more power, yes, it has more grip with it's AWD ... but it lacks character when compared to my previous FD2Rs. It's 6 speed shifter aren't as smooth as the FD2R as well. If you take it to track, the 4 pots are not effective. Brake fluids boiled after 4 laps. Then I upgraded to DBA rotors and pads, no issue for next track day.

During the 3 years of owning it, the car did not give me any issues but note that it was my weekend car, hence low mileage. My only complaint is the equal length header which removes its famous burble sound but nothing that can't be fixed with a Tomei unequal length header 
https://www.maperformance.com/products/tome...rx-tb6010-sb04a

Agreed, though in Malaysia, a majority of owners do not drive the car to its potential on a constant basis. Sure, it may be driven hard every now and then, but they're hardly driven to redline for extended period of time. Hence, enjoyment plays a big part in how we feel about owning the car whether it's a daily or weekend car, and the lessen efficiency is not that much of an impact in that scenario. Well, at least for me lah  coz I only took mine to track like only 3x at most over the course of 3 years. Whereas I would have love the "syiokness" as you put it, when I drive it every weekend. The quietness of the stock WRX STI is just so, 

Hi all.. had anyone here used after market radiator (SARD aluminium radiator)? Any issue?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
I won't use alu rads.

I had changed mine using SARD.. it seems like it eating away the coolant fluid.. it will change blue to clear color after few weeks, and i'm using distilled water...  this can't be good.. 

it's not leaking coolant. it changed the coolant frm blue color to clear color.

i also read an article saying aluminum radiator cannot add in coolant. Must use either water or distilled water only. Is that true? 

I am still having problem until today getting a good mechanic to do wheel alignment for my 2015 XV.
Any recommendation around Damansara/PJ/Kepong?

As above.

I'm in the last stage of my decision to get XV2 especially with the great discount now since crosstrek likely coming next year (don't know CBU or CKD) but definitely much higher price vs discounted price now.

In less than a decade I will be at retirement age thus this is likely the last SUV I'm getting. Cannot afford more. Money reserved for kid education fund. Still deciding either this or t cross. In almost ALL aspect, I'm leaning heavily to XV but one thing on XV still holding me back.

This car is going to likely last me 20 years (my current car is approaching 17, another 15 and 12 respectively) so you can I imagine I really took care of cars pretty well.

Just checked the govt data, this year xv registered 842 units with 6,668 for last 5 years while Cross has 10,990 this year with over 30K since launch (within 2 years).

Why the data? Coz I've already encountered issue of finding original parts for my 2006 City (17 approaching 18 years). Luckily easily can find good half cut and lots of other OEM parts for it. The price still ok coz got many half cut and OEM parts still available.

Now if XV 17 years later, don't know can still find parts in Malaysia and half cut will much extremely limited (can see the data comparison) if got will be much more expensive and not much choice (meaning half cut quality cannot choose).

This are likely a great concern for long term car owners including me.
I think I can manage the higher maintenance price after warranty but then after 10 years 15 years, they might be an issue for me, I mean in terms of parts scarcity and half cut availability.

So close to getting XV until this point comes up. One of my car is old good reliable Civic FD 1.8 thus for SUV at this price range XV seems to be the closest to good driving experience vs Cross boring drive and rear seat legroom. After drive XV, Cross driving exp is really so meh..

Now in last minute dilemma..Should I go get XV and enjoy the drive for next 10 years and suffer shit in parts and maintenance after my retirement age or just get Cross and get it over with (but Cross driving exp is really shitty after driving the XV). Not too say Cross is really bad but its just a standard SUV no feel ride with significant body roll, rear seat jumpiness (a bit dizzy) (feel a bit sick behind coz not used to suv). XV got not such issue.

If only someone can garantee no issue with XV car parts at fair price and half cut availability after 15 years...

Just releasing a bit of tension here on my dilemma...  

This is the weakness of Subaru market...such a good car (albeit can't match interior looks of Honda), yet nobody buy coz it comes back to these issues. A chicken and egg thing. Nobody buy coz they worry future maintenance but it is becoz ppl don't dare buy that the future maintenance becomes an issue..haiz..

ps. Now reading more possible issues like cvtf or engine oil getting in coolant and its not just blown gasket. Seems owning boxer engine really got way so much more potential headache vs T and H inline engines.

140k, facebook Subaru XV Malaysia, year 2016, should be 140K. Got owner asked what to do coz cvtf got oil mixed in...at least 1 response got same problem earlier with cvtf or engine oil (should be CVTF) leaked into coolant or vice versa..

This type of problem, I have not hear happening at least in Honda and Proton persona...maybe I'm not familiar enuf but with at least engine wise, I only deal with engine oil leaking, ignition coil failure, etc. Common issues, not the headache type like boxer possible piston wear, coolant mixed with oil, etc.

I'm not familiar with engine stuff to comment more...

With all the govt in world phasing out ICE by 2030 to 2035, I wonder should I wait a bit to see if go for EV although price still only for upper middle and rich ppl. Fuel subsidy removal is something we have to consider seriously, probably next year onwards.

Going thru the scheduled maintenance up to 100K, I notice there is no fuel filter listed. Is there no fuel filter?

The maintenance list is really not comprehensive meaning if ppl follow exactly, they might actually missed out crucial maintenance like 30K or 40K air cond maintenance.

Beside fuel filter (if any, when change?), any other maintenance items not listed in the SC maintenance list?
What compulsory items or required maintenance are NOT listed

Did you change your fuel filter at SC? What's the price?

Maybe they adopting wait and see on local market to see if they can bring in the eboxer next round (now that eboxer discontinued and Subaru likely using toyota hybrid tech for the next eboxer version). Bringing in Crosstrek now with CKD assembly reconfiguration might not be worthwhile for them now.

hi all sifu, recently i came across a low mileage (<100km) CBU 2018 WRX STI. it was registered in dec 2017 and owned by the boss of a subaru authorized dealer. basically just used as a display car and rarely being driven (according to the dealer), hence the low mileage. they are asking for RM250k, and they mentioned it will still be given warranty under the dealer itself. The condition is still good and is completely stock.

i'm wondering if this is a good buy or should i get a 2020 recon from japan instead, which cost around RM240k in total. some of the pros and cons i can think of if getting the 2017 local WRX STI is:
+ still have local warranty
+ low mileage
+ can inspect the car personally
+ it's a 2.5L engine (where else japan import is 2.0L) so the power potential is higher
- higher roadtax comparing to its japan import counterpart
- overpriced (i think) for a 5 years car
- higher loan interest (because buying as used car)
- not really a big issue but the car is not in the color that i would want to buy

i hope you all can share some thoughts with me and give some advices to help me make a decision
thanks!

I want to make mine a bit firmer, so that after going over a speed bump, the car doesn't sink too much and then bounce up
more compression damping, I suppose

what would be a decent budget to set aside?

Personally if you ask any Subaru group for forums, most of them will ask you direct get the 1 with STi if you can drive manual. (EJ20 engine with twin scroll turbo). if want automatic get the Levorg or WRX Wagon with the 2.0T engine. (Similar engine as WRX but with a Wagon body).

Sti - Generally more maintenance due to higher performance EJ20 engine. Need to change timing belt at 100k. Normal driving, it is recommend to change the engine oil around 5-7k with fully synthetic.

WRX - If FA20DIT engine. less items to maintain in long run (timing chain engine), also similar engine oil change interval as Sti. The expensive part might be CVT oil, as near to 6L per change for every 30~40k range. Aftermarket CVT oil depending on brand usually cost around RM50/L onwards.

To all Subi masters & sifus here. I’m not here to pissed off some of you... I just wanted to share my 5yrs experience on Forester SJ.
I followed the service manual and replaced all the necessary oils and parts (including wear & tear) but Forester was not meant to daily hard drive & it’s a very fragile car (compare to my previous ride) or  I might be the unlucky wan to get into all these problems.

Beginning of 3yrs experience (under warranty):
- I’ve collected my car, my first issue was reverse camera bracket was broken after 1mth driving it. And it took SC 2 weeks to claim and reinstall back
- After few mths driving, my air-con was not cold. Went to SC and they just top up the gas.
- Back light bulb was burn left… then after few weeks right side (maybe wear & tear) but only less than a year drive…
-      interior A-pillar case fall off on driver side, SC need to fixed few times until i complain and escalate up, only SC get it done properly (but now it starts to fall off again)

After warranty period (4th years). Major issue occurs:
- Front lower arm & bushes replacement (due to knocking sound when turning & go thru speed bum
- Replace rear wheels bearing, due to noise on high speed road
- Replace radiator due to leaking on top part because the plastic had turned into brown and crisp
- Replace driver side power windows motor
- Replace air con compressor
- All the squeaking sound from door panels and seat (had used 2 x cans of silicone spray) it reduces the sound but still there. Again, I’m comparing with my previous ride and one of the car I still own and does not have this issue at all.

Now the major major issue
- transmission solenoid problem … I had checked and it need to replace the valve body … will cost me 2K++

I think I’m really really the unlucky wan facing all these problems just within 5yrs. Or I need give more caring & loving to this car? 

As mentioned by all the sifus’ .. yes I do agreed that the parts used in CKD locally was bad and no QC… for me now already phobia with Subi .. will try to avoid at all course at this moment.. 

Already done the replacement, clean up throttle body, clear error code.. now back to normal and hope that no more issue for now.