man that sucks...my old car drive almost 13 years still stick to the initial tensioners and chain cam...either yours is a lemon or manufacturers now like to make things less durable for more return purchases...

The default level is so damn low, even i requested to adjust during the service, still ended up almost no difference. I just adjust to my comfortable level. I compared it against the recent mercedes my relative have, mercedes ones still has higher light throw even after i adjusted my mazda to my liking. At least i know i'm not blinding the oncoming side or blinding the car in front of me.

Just get better tyres, but realistically speaking, 99.9% of our driving, we never reached the limits of the grip of our tyres. Most of us too chicken or the roads don't allow. But if changing to wider and larger wheels/tyres give you better peace of mind, there's no reason stopping. Just remember about scrub radius, wider doesn't always mean more grip; suspension geometry is king when talking about grip.

Can try play around here : http://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=215...wcl=30mm&sr=0mm

Not really bro.. i dint change.. i told the shop let me think about it. As i walk away, he told me no need change tensioner and just change belt.. more convinced i should just walked away

I got the knocking sound like knuk knuk on early 2000km. they told me that they change something like washer part near absorber , probably around mounting ...the stock part is not good enough i think cus they said it came originally from factory...

and it fixed.

I think you better get another opinion. It could just be a matter of tightening the air-con belt.

so now no more kruk kruk sound? which sc you change it?

Exactly my thought..

Collect my car this sunday, anything to take note esp for M3?

Common pre delivery defetcs/etc?

ok....found in 1st post

This post has been edited by Monkey King: Sep 16 2016, 10:51 PM

check for those scratches and make sure all the lights are working and tyres is in good condition

the car is generally problem-free beside the knocking sound from suspension

so syok

After driving this, i felt those with budget around 90-100k... Should stretch a bit more to get this ride. GL will be good enough w/o the premium features.

Did you manage to test drive Civic X? If you did, what is the pros and cons for both?

Changing albums on long drives is a chore so here's how to create playlists for your MZD infotainment. All you need is a Windows PC. Plug your USB drive containing your MP3 files into your PC. Start Windows media player. Now use file manager to make a selection of songs from your USB, right click and select 'Add to Playlist'. Browse and continue to select and add to playlist until you are done. Now in media player click on the icon in the top right corner and select 'Save Playlist as' and save on your USB drive root directory. It will be saved as a .wpl file. Done!

never bothered btw..

1. CVT
2. steering button feels cheapo even compared to my wife jazz
3. engine wiring harness is so messy vs M3
4. insulation material around firewall does not seems to last
5. Loud engine rattling noise compared to mazda 3 (both is DI btw)

thumbs up for NO CVT

the insulation material at firewall there is visible from engine bay? never notice it

and what you mean by engine rattling noise?

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anyone selling their original 17 rim?
mine are previous gen mazda 3...

any recommend place to find?

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Can anyone recommend a decent workshop around cheras or ampang to inspect my 2010 Mazda3 GL hatchback? I suffer from difficulty to start. Usually i have to put key inside 1st ignition turn before I can start engine.

If I try to start too quick like i forgot to wait etc, Ill get crank no start or even sometimes i hear like belting running but engine didnt start. Really weird and frustrating. This is not a faulty battery since battery has been changed and inspected.

Halppppp

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Anyone heard of the new Mazdasports 3 from Paultan?