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 Official Honda Civic 10th Gen Owner/Fans Club V1, Turbo kick in yo...

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Alternation
post Jun 28 2016, 08:35 PM

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QUOTE(reloadedprimus @ Jun 28 2016, 08:27 PM)
i'm very surprised that not many of the bodykit shops are doing the 10th generation yet.

Also not much accessories haha

guess have to wait awhile first
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Civic x looks great without bodykit. Its Modern, classy and bold at the same time. Most bodykit will ruin it, including modulo's.

Infact the more i look at it, the lesser i want to put on spoiler. Quite a few americans are trying to remove the ducktail spoiler on their ex-t.
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post Jun 28 2016, 09:36 PM

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QUOTE(Rudy76 @ Jun 28 2016, 09:25 PM)
Hi guys. My first post here. Just got my tcp orchid pearl white. 2 weeks of waiting time. Still in 'getting to know each other' phase with this baby. Nice +|- 50kms journey done with her. My only concern is the handling. Feeling 'gayat' when taking corner at speed. Feel like insufficient feedback from the rubber. Maybe it is just me... May need sometime to get use to the eps. Very happy though. Can't wait to drive her again tomorrow.
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Ur tire pressure is probably at 43psi. Reduce it to the recommended pressure which is 32psi.

U'll feel the difference in cornering, road noise and also ride comfort. Also allow the tire to break in for further improvements.
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post Jun 29 2016, 06:43 AM

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QUOTE(hihihehe @ Jun 28 2016, 09:50 PM)
can honda do that for us when collecting the car?
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Honda SC don't have tire shop facilities so I doubt they will.

usopkun I checked myself. I also went to tire shop to check alignment. Alignment and camber was off. Adjusted them and handling now is so much better and confident.

The only thing I'm still getting used to is the low end torque. It feels like slingshot. Fun! brows.gif

This post has been edited by Alternation: Jun 29 2016, 06:44 AM
Alternation
post Jun 29 2016, 08:55 AM

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QUOTE(pigin @ Jun 29 2016, 08:33 AM)
=( dash board rattling getting more obvious..
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Dashboard rattling could be due to broken clips or loose screws. It sure is irritating for a new car but its easily fix. Bring back to Honda SC and file a complain.
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post Jun 29 2016, 09:49 AM

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QUOTE(fooj @ Jun 29 2016, 09:43 AM)
8.4km/l at this moment.
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What's your mileage so far?

Mine is only 6.5km/l and mileage is 120km.

Using Shell V-power 97. No spirited driving yet.
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post Jun 29 2016, 10:11 AM

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QUOTE(berann @ Jun 29 2016, 09:54 AM)
6.5km/l? wow that is about the same fuel consumption with Nissan GTR 3.8Lit twin turbo  biggrin.gif
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If i go full retard it will match a veyron's fc laugh.gif

Soon it will drop to 14 - 17km/l once its properly broken in.
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post Jun 29 2016, 10:15 AM

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QUOTE(tenwei @ Jun 29 2016, 10:10 AM)
the front and rear tire pressure also the same 32psi ?
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Yes. but if u drive frequently at 160km/h, u'll need to increase about 2 psi.
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post Jun 29 2016, 10:46 AM

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QUOTE(unitron @ Jun 29 2016, 10:37 AM)
I think hard braking is a must to bed in the new brake pads. I do it everytime I change brake pads.
You want it to work at optimum level in case you need to do an emergency brake. Imagine suddenly you need to do e-brake but your brand new pads haven't properly bedded in, your stopping distance increase.

I would say keep RPM to max 5k... 3k is way too low.
For me normally I'll whack to red-line just before an oil change for new engines / re-built engines.

The only possible problems I see are the journal bearings... but with modern material, part tolerances, part design and proper engine oil viscosity. This shouldn't be a problem.
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In the instruction book, its stated new brake pads should be allowed to break in properly and no hard braking for 600km.

The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder.
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post Jun 29 2016, 10:49 AM

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QUOTE(lyc1982 @ Jun 29 2016, 10:43 AM)
what's the brand of sound system provided in this civic...?
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Cap ayam laugh.gif

Bro this is not merc / audi.

Its better than most c segment cars though.

Thinking of changing them to better ones later on.
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post Jun 29 2016, 11:10 AM

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QUOTE(lionking7791 @ Jun 29 2016, 10:56 AM)
Which part you plan to change? Only speakers?
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Speakers only.
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post Jun 29 2016, 01:57 PM

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QUOTE(whyip1988 @ Jun 29 2016, 01:22 PM)
bought almost RM1000 accessories frm tmall  rclxms.gif
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What did u buy?
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post Jun 29 2016, 08:27 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Jun 29 2016, 06:50 PM)
The Ecotint Ray Barrier lousy spec for the windshield... very low TSER for the price you pay.
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user posted image

Not too bad la.
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post Jun 29 2016, 08:39 PM

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QUOTE(fooj @ Jun 29 2016, 08:06 PM)
The modern steel buddy , I saw she took my car picture too 😳
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And let's hope she post it here since I haven't get the chance to see ur car brows.gif
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post Jun 29 2016, 08:53 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Jun 29 2016, 08:41 PM)
42% TSER for the front... Should be less than 70% IRR 😂 And windscreen is the most important.
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The higher the VLT, the lesser TSER. We can always compensate lower TSER in front windscreen by putting up sunshade when it's parked.
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post Jun 29 2016, 09:45 PM

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QUOTE(alvinchuah @ Jun 29 2016, 09:30 PM)
3m or ecotint raybarrier 4 better?
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The 3m horizon safety is sweat.gif . Literally sweat.gif in the car. According to the list, ray barrier 4 is superior in every aspects.

Higher spec 3m film should be on par with rb4 but will cost more.

For rm1.5k and jpj compliant film, rb4 is quite alright. But anything above rm2k, u can get better film out there.
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post Jun 30 2016, 08:19 AM

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Who asked if the armrest port can connect to AA, it can't. U need to plug to front port for AA.
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post Jun 30 2016, 12:46 PM

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Someone asked if driving in 's' simulates a traditional autobox shift. Answer is no. Unless u do manual shift with the paddle. Even that u won't feel much jerk during up and down shift due to the 7 speed ratios.

In 's' mode, the response is sharp. Almost too sharp for comfort in start stop traffic. Cvt delay almost unnoticeable.

It handles the hilly road better than traditional auto because it never gets confused on ratio selection.
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post Jun 30 2016, 01:49 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Jun 30 2016, 01:00 PM)
So, S simulated more aggressive ratio shifting but still CVT style. The traditional shifting method only during paddle shifting?

Was looking at a few 0-60 videos, noticed they set to S but it is shifting in paddle shift style... I remember during my short test drive it showed which shift in number?
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I just checked there's shift point in the 0-100 videos. the shift points
Is at 50+mph and the rpm at 5.7k.

I didn't go that high and sustain the acceleration, probably that's why I didn't feel the shift point. Wil try again once hit 1000km.
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post Jun 30 2016, 02:30 PM

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QUOTE(GeekinE90 @ Jun 30 2016, 02:23 PM)
The 2 tone tint looks sporty smile.gif
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brows.gif

I think it'll look sportier with big 555 ala wrx sti on the side body laugh.gif brows.gif
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post Jun 30 2016, 03:23 PM

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QUOTE(GeekinE90 @ Jun 30 2016, 03:00 PM)
Once the car arrives at the dealer, they need to organize the stock, parking/movement of the cars (as they receive tens of cars over a span of a couple of days).  Then only you will get the chassis number once the dust settles.  With the chassis number, they will have to prepare the paper work - sales invoice, insurance documents, payment settlement.  Usually the admin office will prep these docs.  Then only can register with the complete set of documents.  Takes a couple of days from stock arriving to registering.  After register still need to prep the car for delivery.
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Bro, my car turun trailer, I go inspect. They register and I got my car 2 hours later.

It depends on dealers.

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