The goodyear tyre no model name stated there, but the thread pattern resemble Goodyear Duraplus. Not hankook, I got Silverstone Synergy m3 with the car, yes only manage to use tilll 50k km then 1 tyre got bulge at the thread, then change 1 set to goodyear even the thread still got about 25% left.

Yeah maybe the rubber part still new, wear by aged maybe. I think as long as we not exceed maximum gross weight of the car and not using too oversize wheel the suspension part can last longer. 

Also i got obd2 reader, checked the fault code, yet no problem also. 

maybe lightweight car though.

Its just state ELM 327 at the reader. not sure what version.

Dear bro clan201,
for alarm and central lock system. everything else installation is the same as others car.
except these metal block need to use grinder to make the part smaller, else it will stuck.
FYI, alarm module sell for $30, center lock module sell for rm 20  at wwf accesory shop at bandar permaisuri.
you also need to buy a siren, and a momentary switch rm 8.9 at pasar road, pudu---- to open the door lock when your passenger want to go down from the car and you just drop them off and drive away. the wire tap to alarm side. lock/unlock output.

so for a mere less than rm 100 , e spec owner can enjoy the convieniet of other model without lock / unlock the door manually. so frustrated. our car maybe cheap. but if we do it properly it is as good as advance spec.  our e model is the biggest bang for the buck.

for rpm meter you have 2 choice 1) magician obd --- just connect to the obd port under the stering. it will show rpm, water temperature, battery voltage. i buy from kepong there is a acc shop beside pitasio bakery selling for rm 138. just plug and play

2) obd 2 elm 327 scanner. i buy from a malay guy in puchong perdana for rm 60.
it will connect thru bluetooth to your smartphone handphone. he will send you a torque pro app. and from the app there is various parameter to play with. the smartphone can act as a head up display too at night.

to make both device work simultaneously. we need a obd 2 Y-split cable. else u only can use one device at a time because our car only has one obd port. my cable i brought from johor. rm 50 it is still on the way. most of the thing i buy from mudah you just need to know where to find.

potent booster also buy from a malay guy in pandan. he sell rm 540. rm 10 installation only. try mudah. search for pb booster and select the cheapest supplier. his advertisement will come out. must hurry, because last time he tell me 5 drive is going finish very soon.

Guys I just found out another rusty part. Just next to the front wheel. Don't know what this call. Anyone have experience on how to prevent further rust?

btw your rusty part is which part d ya bro? isit the part near extractor?

i saw mine extractor looks totally rusty, macam used extractor lol...

gonna try complaint it during my 2nd service haha

Ic... What this part call?

look at you why dont you buy proton iriz mt? it is better than perodua myvi and axia in terms of everything except fc.Bro if you think that perdana is expensive, then go and get iriz mt. it is simple as that. it is also better than vios in terms of everything. it is not a milo tin car anymore. Go and get it. give up on axia and myvi malaysian chinese. get that car.i am even malaysian chinese. its qc has improved a lot compare to previous proton models

Many worry about rusty looking but these part are not stainless steel. Stainless steel are brittle and not suitable for all parts. Steel used on cars are mostly galvanized steel. The corrosion is on surface. It is normal. It should not spread deeper than just skin deep. Like steel water pipe. It is also galvanized steel. It may looks corroded but only skin deep.

If you look on engine manifold. It is also look rusty 

It is normal as far as I understand. Brake pad is not rubber    It is composition of abrasive material which includes metal shavings like steel , copper and also brass; hold together by hard resin. Different makers have different composition. So, during usage sometimes you can hear the shrieking noise but later may go away once the pads goes through wearing process, getting thinner and thinner 

Hope this is right thread. Tumpang lalu. Guys I'm contemplating a new axia. Anyone got an Axia G and convert to the SE headlights and bumper? If so, where to do and at what cost? I'm not that keen to spend the extra 5k to upgrade to SE (I'd rather upgrade better HU, tint, rims, etc myself at cheaper cost, better quality, and probably money leftover for the poisons I see in this thread). Though I've read this thread from V2-V5 and seems G more problems than the other models (e.g. headlight masuk air). Please advise thank you.

Actually for most people complain about problems is because they don't have friends or family that had the same car , so the problem they encounter they not sure is normal or what  , in forum like this people can share their experience and problem

So just let us complain our problem . If your car no all these problem we complain about then congratulation you get the best quality car .

Eh wanna ask. Anyway to keep the backlights for the tachometer and speedometer on all the time without turning on the headlights ah?

Yeah. The meter color is not illuminated type somemore. Totally cannot see anything sometimes.

If remove become ugly leh. Lol.

Replace the stock one with this..

Hi all, wanna ask, how much should i ready for first insurance and road tax? thanks.

Im using spec G manual. Thanks.

According to the seller l. This is direct from Japan and it Half cut. It meant for Toyota Agya. It very costly and limited.

im reffering to when crusing around 2-3k rpm while still pressing the pedal, will have random loss of gas/power/acceleration, the car will not accelerate even if i press the gas pedal max for 10 seconds, need to release gas pedal and press again then only can accelerate.
**
not only at 2-3k rpm actually at any gear and any rpm will have this random loss of power/acceleration