hmm, tank seems like no space to tuck in later lol, and FOV a bit too low

shoulder would be a bit slanted to a side, and very rarely got people having shoulder mounts.
you happen to come across shoulder mounted vids? want to look at them for references

nice!

makes me wonder on the ignition timing range and tolerances hehe.

I think not much. I tried RON100 vs RON97 vs RON95. Same mileage, but "rasa" macam lagi power
Could be placebo though...

not really. the main criteria is engine heat/compression ratio and most important of all - ignition timing.
even carb (at least for cars, not too sure on bikes, but should be similar/same) also got distributor to adjust ignition timing.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroke_engine

basically, ignition have to occur on the TDC (top dead center)

low octane may result in pre-ignition/pre-detonation or more commonly known as knocking/pinging, which can damage the engine.
imagine the piston is traveling up on the compression stroke, a pre detonation occurs and pushes the piston down while it's supposed to go up, imagine the stress on the con rods

without using higher octane fuel, this can be solved by retarding the ignition timing (have the air fuel mixture detonated later), however the obvious downside is reduced power being produced.

if you can have even higher octane fuel, the opposite can be achieved, which is advancing the ignition timing, to produce more power as the air fuel mixture is ignited earlier so the compression's power stroke can begin sooner.

obviously, got a maximum limit on the advancement so you do not ignite the mixture before the piston reaches TDC

not really. the main criteria is engine heat/compression ratio and most important of all - ignition timing.
even carb (at least for cars, not too sure on bikes, but should be similar/same) also got distributor to adjust ignition timing.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroke_engine

basically, ignition have to occur on the TDC (top dead center)

low octane may result in pre-ignition/pre-detonation or more commonly known as knocking/pinging, which can damage the engine.
imagine the piston is traveling up on the compression stroke, a pre detonation occurs and pushes the piston down while it's supposed to go up, imagine the stress on the con rods

without using higher octane fuel, this can be solved by retarding the ignition timing (have the air fuel mixture detonated later), however the obvious downside is reduced power being produced.

if you can have even higher octane fuel, the opposite can be achieved, which is advancing the ignition timing, to produce more power as the air fuel mixture is ignited earlier so the compression's power stroke can begin sooner.

obviously, got a maximum limit on the advancement so you do not ignite the mixture before the piston reaches TDC

I think he means a lightbar like this. The guy in the video DIY his lights.

Eeeh. I'm not a fan of the underlight LEDs, just flashy really - no real purpose.

The only one I know that might is CSB-Pro Autolight; they do custom lighting for mostly cars but they can do bikes as well. Currently, mostly Z800s. But not cheeeaaaapp. Custom fittings, biase la.

Entah.... aku dok taruk RON97 at kereta & motor, x pernah pun rasa ada beza. So aku pilih yg murah je lah.

Tapi kalau diesel, confirm diesel biasa vs Euro 5 mmg berbeza. Busuk tengiknya kurang... lol.... teringat dulu tahun 90 lepas SPM kerja kuli tukang pam minyak Caltex, siapa datang kerja lambat kena jaga pam diesel.. alamat bila habis shift mmg habis baju satu badan bau busukkkkkk....

i ride R25 daily to work/everywhere as well.

i use xena alarm lock (without using alarm function even when it has it because imho too sensitive) for my front disc and the free disc lock from shop for my rear disc and of course the bike's built in handle bar lock.

my office is at first avenue (1 Utama), its more "civilized" so incidents are almost nil here.
a lot of riders leave their jacket/helmets on their bikes too so that says something.

if you're not so fortunate to park at guarded place with rich people/tenants, then consider getting another chain or something to tie the bike down to a pillar or something similar
or if you got colleagues/riders coming in/out at the same time, can consider tying multiple bikes together however can be inconvenient as must share key and if one leaves the other is a lone bike which needs something else to die down to.

this is to prevent people hoisting the entire bike up a pickup truck or similar methods.

then there's people stealing accessories, i've got 2-3 friends faced the same fate, replacements are in the 2-6k (one friend had to claim total lost because there's nothing left besides the engine/frame) because theirs are bigger/more expensive bikes with brembos.

the best way is still to park responsibly and prudently. try to park at guarded basements with guards patrolling to guard cars as well.

thanks bro, will look into it 

btw just 3rd oil change again on 2500 km, running on Repsol racing. holy crap smooth lol
http://www.repsol.com/es_en/productos-serv....aspx?JScript=1

first was 500km motul 3100 semi syn, second 1200 km yamalube full syn

videos of me playing around the engine revs to somewhat show it's smoothness in a bit hehe.

yamalube was a huge disappointment, even on just 1300 km mileage :/
motul 3100, being semi syn was for the most part, felt better than yamalube fully synthetic.

can you screen capture the viscosity chart recommendation from your manual please? just curious.

Saturday morning 8/9AM 2 April 2016 rojak rider/group(s) riding trip, any takers?
the ride will go on even if i am the only one, so rest assured it is on.

route/destination most likely Sg.Tua/Ulu Yam > Batang Kali > Gohtong Jaya mamak
gathering at Sg Tua Petronas station, checkpoints at Ulu yam town before batang kali, most likely bus stop slightly after the police station, then next checkpoint just after guard house reaching gohtong jaya, then destination at Mamak

please RSVP/pm if preferred.
May also voice out if having other preferences and we'll try to accommodate however majority rules preferred.

Hades76 RoyBlue Jylova
open to anyone regardless who i am pinging in this post

thinking 9/9:30am la.
pm me your contact if confirmed, i'll merge you guys into a whatsapp group later.

(assuming not "slow"), slow tak pe, asalkan sampai 

minimum? what lesson?

in the owner's manual, there got stated need to warm up the bike before riding it...
what kind of warm up?
let the temp rise up? rev for few times? ride slow2 early of the day when riding?

how i do is, start the engine, let the engine running for 3 minutes or so until the temp bar rise up to 3 bar.
is this the correct way to warm up bike?

I think so, saw one guy use Toyota long life coolant.
I wonder if could topup using distilled water on a bike?

but my R25 always on 1.5k rpm...from cold start until 3 bar temp...still 1.5k rpm...
3 minutes is what it takes to goto 3 bar temp...
if wait longer, the fan start running and can smell the paint smell...