This

If you didn't pay for anything, then is free package la....

If free package and they still give you the remaining bottle of new oil, very good leh...

Wa....your side so good one....

Do you mind uploading the image of the receipt/work order for this warranty work? (you can black out your personal details)

Shorty is a reputable accessories shop in that area. You can click is banner/facebook link to see their products and installations.

When using I-Stop start, the engine starter has to work harder and faster to restart the engine in order to resuming commuting. Imagine the embarrassment when your car needs a few seconds to restart at the traffic light.

The slightly harsher jerking is normal.

That method is patented under Suzuki, so i believe Mazda have to make do with the starter method. The starter motor is heavy duty type, not the normal type, definitely can handle much more stress of repeated start cycles. The wear will be more focused on the engine internals, whereby the lubrication is paused the moment the engine stops running.

So far, cars with start/stop system is rather recent and there aren't many engine tear downs to really study the wear levels on such engine internals. But if my memory serves me right, i did read an article many months ago regarding a toyota prius in UK running for almost 700k miles (that's 1.12million km), the car is still running fine. Even the battery also doing ok. With the modern advances in material sciences and engineering, the materials simulation should hold for at least the car model lifecycle, meaning about 7/8 years till the next replacement model comes.

Another factor which contributes to the jerkiness is the gear engaging the moment the engine started. So now you have the initial jerking from the engine start and immediately after that, the transmission gear engagement. If you ever driven a manual transmission car before (or still remember the days of driving school), it is almost like shifting your gear to 1 and starting the engine. The result, the car lurches forward quite violently.

Just that the stop/start mechanism is more refined with electronic controls and timing, so not as harsh as the manual transmission example. Remember, the system has to do 2 things in less than 1 second, restart the engine and engage the transmission gear.

The starter is definitely involved. Smooth or jerkiness is depending on the cylinder position, sometimes it is optimum, sometimes it is not.

I do however agree that with the current start/stop system where it turns off everything other than the electronics and ICE, our climate is just too warm for the air conditioning to be off. Hopefully, more models in the future will come with electric air conditioning compressor rather than the current belt driven type. But then, this will require even stronger power reserve requirements, meaning even more power denser batteries required....

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Jun 29 2016, 09:09 AM

Thanks for the info on that, i stand corrected of my assumptions.

Wa...quite good...

The rumours saying banks that focuses more on muslim community offering lower interest seems true.

If change different brand of petrol settle your issue, most likely the engine has "indigestion" towards the fuel additives used by Petron. I use BHP 95 most of the time and also pumped Shell 95 and V Power Racing before. No such issue like yours happen before.

You can try the advise given by hz428, V Power Racing has additional cleaning additives, maybe able to cure the "flu". If got any component issue, the check engine light will show up on your dash board.

Would suggest you drive it a little longer until the market brings in more aftermarket products for the current Mazda3, unless you want to spend some money and adventure through overseas sellers.

Take your time with the car for now, find out more about it that you're happy and not happy about, then only you can speak to the workshop more specifically on the things you want to improve upon. The suspension setup is already quite good considering the size of the rims together with the balance of handling vis a vis driving comfort. Only the Ford Focus is competitive in this aspect.

Regarding performance tuning, i presume it is related to engine tuning. The platform is relatively new and rather complex, so the options are rather limited for now unlike old platforms which are thoroughly hacked and trial tested in many forms. I do know someone who can help you with this if you're interested. The tuning mainly to enhance drivability on lower engine revs and some areas where the torque is a bit flat, nothing much of power improvements in general. If you interested, you can PM me.

Anyway, your money, your car, your call, just want to give a piece of what's in my mind

Unlikely that there will be more rebates unless you can still find any 2015 car sitting around. Due to UK exiting the european union, the currency markets are in havoc and the japanese yen has been appreciating against all currencies.

All major japanese brands have raised prices since the last round of RM depreciation, if they can still maintain price, consider it a bonus. There won't be much other than around RM1000 rebate + normal tint. You can get more than that, another bonus for you.

More likely facelift will launch 1 year from now. Our timing is usually at least 6 months later than international markets. If the economy goes bad, it will delay longer as the pre facelift CKD kits can't be consumed as cars aren't selling in showroom. A good example will be the Peugeot 208, facelift with new gearbox has been launched more than 1 year ago, but our market still stuck with the pre facelift. That car was actually pretty peppy, i test driven it and found the engine responding well (probably due to light weight), better NVH against the Mazda3, quite nice to move around town, just that i don't like the old school 4 speed gearbox. I was actually thinking of getting the facelift due to the better gearbox, but sick of waiting. Hence i looked elsewhere

The non turbo version of the engine is pretty ok, the turbo-ed version is the worrying one.

I would suggest that you weigh your desire against your budget. If it is too much a stretch, better not take the Mazda3. Not only your installments will be higher, so will be your insurance, petrol usage and other misc costs.

Another way is be a little patient in looking for a nice 2nd hand mazda3, can be found slightly above the price of a Mazda2. If you can't afford it, better not make a decision that you may regret unless you make a very calculated move and know that your financial position in the near future makes it affordable.