BMW E90 LCI Model - Facelifted

Dear Sifu(s) / Beemer(s) / BMW Specialist(s) / Experienced People(s),

I would like to purchase a used/secondhand BMW 3-Series E90 Facelifted LCI Model, probably year made from 2009 to year 2011, as I'm a big fan of BMW and by heart, wanting to be a Beemer. As I'm inexperienced with the automotive world, I would like to seek help and advice from sifu(s), beemer(s), BMW Specialist(s), and experienced people in LYN to give me a better understanding and for me to be prepared to own one BMW E90 (I don't mind to come out for coffee, chilling session, or meetups, the treats on me). I understand that this car is not cheap to maintain by nature, and I should not expect this car (maintenance, road tax, insurance cost) to be the same as my Proton Wira SE '08. Thus, I will be as detailed as possible regarding my financial strengths and my potential daily driving usage of the new BMW for I would like to understand the potential outcome of driving a BMW, the UDM.

Objective of this Post
-Can I afford a used BMW E90/E60?
-Where can I find a good used car dealer/good used BMW car?
-What should I look out for (potential signs of bad car owner, resulting in bad car condition)?
-How much should I standby for the used BMW (from the initial stages of purchasing it)?
-Reliability of the BMW E90 LCI Model

*About Myself*
-Personally, I'm just a typical Chinese dude who works in an IT company that has no family commitments (girlfriend is not in this category, right? ), no car commitments, and no housing commitments. I would most probably drive this car (E90) for the purpose of point A to point B (nothing more than 5,000km in 2-3 months) and sometimes love couple weekend trip within Malaysia (Melaka, Penang, Johor, etc) and maybe once in a blue moon to Thailand and Singapore. I would need to meet important people like CEOs, COOs, CFOs, Directors, VPs, Datuks and the list goes on, thus, I need something of value like a E90 to ride with these people. My driving style is moderately relaxing (mostly in traffic jams with 10-80 km/h, highways at 110-130 km/h, and sometimes if empty road at 150 km/h and above). I'm not a heavy right footer, but occasionally when I need the power to overtake some stupid lorries, buses, or irritating fast lane hoggers, I would pedal to the metal. Given the fact that if it's a BMW, I might ride at 160-180 km/h on highways when I'm travelling far to places like Ipoh, Kuantan, and etc. I'm would be bias to and wants more of a comfort ride (wants great tolerance to bumpiness, dampings, and extremely low NVH, road noise, wind noise) than to performance driving (super cornering speed, drifting, pickup, topspeed, and the list goes on), basically, a guy who wants comfort and luxury driving than to a sports car.

*My Financial Strengths*

Monthly Income (without including annual bonus, deduction from EPF/SOCSO/TAX)

-Budget price for the car itself (including OTR, insurance, deposit, for the car) = RM105,000 maximum.
-Gross Monthly Salary (without bonuses, EPF/SOCSO/TAX deduction, etc) = RM5,000
-Monthly Side Income (non-deductable by EPF/SOCSO/TAX) = RM500
-Annual Bonus (let's ignore this for the time being, for best measures) = RM0

Total Monthly Salary (without bonuses, deduction from EPF/SOCSO/TAX) = RM5,500
Total Annual Salary (without bonuses, deduction from EPF/SOCSO/TAX) = RM66,000

Monthly Liability & Commitment (active and visible through CTOS/CCRIS)

-Personal Loan (2 years duration) = RM650 per month
-PTPTN Loan (10 years duration) = RM110 per month
-Housing Loan (none) = RM0
-Car Loan (none) = RM0

Total Monthly Liability = RM760 per month

I have a Proton Wira Special Edition '08 Auto (WiSE) 1.5 GLi, which has been fully paid off. I would like to trade in this car to support my initial deposit in buying the E90 as spoken.

*BMW Option Keen In* [\B]
-BMW 320i E90 LCI Model with I-Drive (ok ok lo)
-BMW 323i E90 LCI Model with I-Drive (my preference)
-BMW 325i E90 LCI Model with I-Drive (ok ok lo)
-BMW 520i E60 LCI Model (not my preference)
-BMW 523i E60 LCI Model (my preference)
-BMW 525i E60 LCI Model (not my preference)
-BMW 530i E60 LCI Model (not my preference)

[B]From the above, I am seeking knowledge on the the potential maintenance cost, parts to be in concern with (damages like oil leaking, mechatronics, and etc), as well as overall review of the car model mentioned above. However, I'm currently having my eyes on the BMW E90 LCI Model 323i with I-Drive with year made 2009 to 2011. In addition to that, I'm looking forward to understand is CKD or CBU better for this model. It would be superb if you may suggest me a workshop where I can check the secondhand BMW for potential damages (a BMW specialist, etc). I'm also trying to look out for a good E90 323i with I-Drive as mentioned above, so, is there any secondhand car dealer which I can try out for best results?

Thank you in advance for your assistance and advice which I am extremely grateful for and highly appreciated. Your support, advice, and guidance would be appreciated for me transitioning into a Beemer. Please give me energy to become a Beemer!

Yours genuinely,
Nikly

This post has been edited by niklys: Feb 8 2016, 07:21 PM

Well I have a e90 323i

Damages so far
Abs break sensor
Tyres
Fuel pump


Ran 49k only

To me this car can hit 180 no problem but it feels unstable and not very safe

I feel safer if I run 130-140

Maybe e60 is better for u?

And I service my car in auto bravaria glenmarie

BMWs being unreliable is just word of mouth, however you do need to look for one thats well maintained.

A dead giveaway would be the 'lifetime' transmission fluid. BMW malaysia recommends to not change but the supplier of the transmission ZF says otherwise, so if the owner did his homework and replaced it at around 80k km you can be sure he looks after his cars.

Ive also heard that the 2.0l has issues with oil consumption so best avoid, go for the 6 cylinders.

Experience: e90 320d 5 years 100k km zero problems with transmission and engine, only worn absorbers covered under warranty.

This post has been edited by student93: Feb 8 2016, 07:42 PM

Hi ,

I was told that ABS brake sensor on E90 is quite costly to replace, assuming if we were to take back the OEM one. How much did it cost you there? I like the looks of E90 compared to E60. The 180km/h is once in a bluemoon thing whereas 130-140 should be my frequent and common driving speed, so should be fine hhahahaha Though, servicing in AB glenmarie, how much does it cost you on average? 4 figures?

Hi student93,

I was told by numerous ppl that BMWs is unreliable in the sense of maintenance and consistency of the car condition. However, I genuinely believed that should a person knows what's under his hood and decides to learn through time to take good care of it, all the car are about the same in terms of maintenance (maybe cost varies a little).

Though I would like to understand this further,

-How may I identify that the owner of the used BMW car actually had replaced his ATF for his bmw?
-The 6 cylinders you're mentioning about is the 2.5L, right?
-Is your E90 320d noisy when it comes to guzzling the petrol pedal and hitting the highway at speeds of 160-180?

Thank you for your fair share of experience and thoughts, really appreciate it.

niklys

If I remember correctly 300-400 ringgit?

Service usually around 700-2k ringgit but I dun service the car often cause is a weekend car cannot reach the target mileage just every 6 months service once

I think just ask and normally will have receipt, thing is BMW malaysia actually implies that the warranty might be voided if you change the ATF so some owners are kinda confused.

Ya 2.5 all 6 cylinders.

Diesels only noisy when you are outside the car, only wind and tyre roar at 220kmh. When cruising cant really hear the engine too. Specced with m performance kit so 200hp out of factory, performance far above all the previous jap cars Ive driven.

However, from your post it seems like you are a car enthusiast, so I think the 325i would suit you more, the 320d doesnt actually sound 'bad', it even has a soft growls under accel, but its just not very exciting. I would get the 325i for the sound alone.

Why the 323i over the 325i though?

Hi ,

Apparently, 300-400 ringgit is not expensive i think though, i did get this comment from a non-beemer owner. hahh, non-beemer comments really do get exaggerated. anyways, 700-2k over 6 month stretch is still fine i guess. that's like RM250 per month? considering it's a continental, it's not that mega bucks expensive. better perspective on it now. what's the target mileage btw?

niklys

Hi student93,

I think if wind and tyre begins to roar at 220 km/h, I doubt that that's really considered as "bad", right? i mean, it's 220 km/h. even other manufacturers one would have some sort of noises like that too, right?

I was researching the 3 series model and figured that the 325i actually packs more punch (in terms of it's performance, overall), however, with more performance, generally and genuinely i thought, would come at a greater expense. so i was still floating around with 320i, 323i, and 325i. but in the end, after timely research (not lengthy), i noted that most of the beemer owners didn mentioned that for comfort driving, the 323i would be better in terms of the tuning, suspension and etc, whereas the 325i would be better in terms of performance while sacrificing some comfort for driving. that's why i opted for 323i. then again, i was told that 320d actually had the best reliability for the engine and transmission reliability, thus, now i might consider 320d.

i'm cant say that i'm a car enthusiast yet, as i had only driven a proton wira, and nothing else. though, there are ppl (my surrounding relatives and humans of the world) commenting that from owning a proton and now wanting to upgrade to a bmw, I would be suiciding. idk, such comments are pulling me back a little. but my girlfriend is really supportive, as she says "if wanna get something, get the best, or dont get it at all". so, yeah.

generally, i would want a great comfortable ride with comfortable experience. but when i need the punch of a sports car, i can always push it. so there, UDM sounds like the way to go. hahahahah, idk, maybe im out of my mind or something

niklys

bro if you need to meet important people and pick them up, you need to ask your company for a car. you cant work at the same company and fork out the money to own the car because to be honest - your salary cant make it

sure it feels nice first 1-2 months until reality sets in you are stuck with this car for years and bit by bit, month by month it will chew your pay out from road tax, insurance, monthly installment and worst part of all, replacement parts.

if i were you, i'd get a focus sedan or renault fluence or something like that....5 year warranty so you dont get burdened by parts after parts and cost after cost.

trust me on this, kid

Hi thefryingfox,

I also understand that the company would need to give me such a company car with decent quality in order to meet the "atas" people. The thing is, sometimes we dont always get what we want, thus, we compromise a little most of the time.

regarding the chewing out my pay from road tax, insurance, monthly installment and the list goes on, that's why i'm trying to understand the model of BMW which i had listed whether may i afford them now (with my current salary and financial agenda) for the next 1 year, at least. because, we get increment or more income in time to come. for that, i'm positive that after the next 2-3 years, i would have better income then resulting to me being able to withstand the punch to my wallet (assuming if the major part replacement and etc doesnt cost me 15k and above). i would also be able to purchase my first condo by then. just that, my current proton wira is starting to give me performance issue (not like it couldn't drive or anything like that), but when i go for long distance, hitting 100km/h on the road for a 400km ride is not fun, at all.

i was suggested to get alot of types of car models but i was looking for some attitude and character to my car, which i believe BMW was my favourite, by nature. it's like everyone has a hobby, right? mine is to have a decent looking car with driving quality, character, and driving pleasure, thus, UDM.

anyhow, by what definition that "your salary cant make it" that you are referring to? i was told that monthly commitment for the models mentioned above (as i can still have full loan at 9 years), i am paying about 1.5k maximum per month for the installments. are you referring to the maintenance and replacement parts cost that i cant sustain? if so, how much should i be prepared for this then?

your advice and sharing is much appreciated. would like to understand more on the replacement parts and maintenance part.

niklys

A BMW maintenance is not as expensive as ppl bad mouth right? but a BMW maintenance is not as cheap as you think as well...If you wan 2nd car which is not that old yet comfortable..maybe u can look for Japanese D segment car like 2013 CAMRY or ACCORD which should be <RM100K(not top range model).

The maintenance of D segment is definitely higher than your current maintenance of the WIRA but its definitely cheaper than a 3 series in terms of spare part. Basic service maybe more or less you can't feel the a different (eg. engine oil..gearbox oil)

Think carefully before purchasing then..previously I'm driving Ford Fiesta (very basic conti) and I'm earning slightly lesser than u previously and unforeseeable problems happens to the car and the car require major parts change and problem never really solve..that car makes my wallet bleed badly.

make it simple....you dont calculate and say you have 1500 for monthly installment. You need to calculate road tax, insurance, fuel ( say 400 a month seeing that you are driving less) and another 30 percent over the car monthly installment....that to me is a viable calculation. Though you dont use 30 percent of the monthly installment every month but when you have major service - you will need that money.

So if you do the math, is 1500 enough? I doubt. This is reality. When we look at the car, we assume we can afford th monthly payment we should be good. But infact, this is where it catches all of us.


If you have rm 1500 - i suggest you get an almera or a suprima. Its suave enough to carry you and your vip's....and it doesnt kill you in the upcoming few years. True, we intend to assume that our salary will increase year on year or even get a pay hike due to promotions etc...but at that time the taste will be different. We would want better models etc.

Its normal human behavior..once you drive the car for 3-4 year, you would want to change it. Also to note, you better dont take 9 year loan over a continental car. This car depreciates as it ages quickly so its best you dont push your luck. Only a year ago i was looking at a 325i that was in the region of 160k for a 3 year used model...and look at where it is now...115-120k already. Also note interest rate for 2nd hand car is a killer!

Ohh yeah, the 'bad' I meant was for acceleration, general consensus is that diesels are rough and noisy. Car is very refined during cruising.

I'm guessing in terms of comfort you are worried about the M-sport suspension being too stiff? If the places you are going to do not have alot of potholes, not really a problem, the suspension is actually very well-damped. Plus, if you use normal tyres instead of RFTs, even more comfortable (Less tyre noise and much softer, better grip as well). Less costly too, difference per tire I think around rm500.

I think your gf is right haha, no point upgrading to a 'similar car'. After experiencing conti, impossible to go back to japanese. In my opinion, if cannot afford, just stay with proton.

You should be able to afford the car easily with your current salary without the burden of a housing loan, unless you encounter a car that has engine/transmission issues, hence why you need to ensure that the car has a comprehensive service history + ATF changed.

Hi intel_centrino33,

I was advised and suggested by many, to get a D-segment car like you mentioned, Toyota Camry or Honda Accord. besides that, i was also suggested to get cx-5, mitsubishi ASX, and toyota estima (the older version) as well. it's hard to explain for the feeling that i have towards a BMW. the feeling of wanting to have it, so bad and for real.

regarding servicing matter, i did my research and after several workshop had confirmed, bmw specialist (not auto bavarias and etc) would charge me rm500, give and take, just for the engine oil and oil filter replacement. regularly every 80k mileage, to change the ATF. so, it would be similar to the japanese D-segments. just that, the replacement parts are the killer, like you had mentioned. that's why im still in consideration and trying to get a full picture on whether may i afford it or otherwise, for now.

regarding salary, i am expecting major increment by mid of this year (yes 2016/2017 is a bumpy year in economic terms, i know) to the extent between 7-8k monthly salary due to job expectation and role is different without any side income or annual bonus (with side income and annual bonus, im looking at 5, probably entering the early 6 figure stages). that's why only now and then im considering a used BMW.

though, the advice from you is taken seriously. i do note that 5k trying to attain one is hard and painful to my pocket for the time being, should the Beemer that im buying is a lost cause and disaster machine.

niklys

Hi thefryingfox,

From your calculation, i believe you are advising me to input monthly road tax, monthly insurance cost, monthly fuel consumption, and monthly installment altogether to be below 30% of my monthly income, right? if i were to pay higher deposit, would that solve my monthly commitment issue with expectancy to major service cost?

hmmmmm, i do agree with the fact that the interest rate is a killer there. the maths is crazy.

although, pushing 7 years with 20% downpayment is fine, right? the interest rate would be better then, like 3.1 or 3.2%

niklys

Hi student93,

Acceleration is bad? Though, the reviews are stating that the diesels are actually more powerful, thus, I do expect better pickup rate, am I wrong? Yes, the general consensus that I'm hearing and noting so far is that diesels are rough and noisy. With your experience, the car is refined during cruising? At what speed onwards it begins to get rough or uncomfortable?

Sorry, but i dont get what are RFTs. most of the places that i go to are places in KL, sometimes outstation (thus got potholes and etc).

i always listen to my gf advice when it comes to wealth and health matters, probably that's why i'm growing financially, mentally, and physically (physically sideways ). But yeah, after going continental and wanting to go back to japanese, it feels weird I guess in terms of reputation and driving feeling.

besides the engine/transmission issue, comprehensive service history and ATF understanding, i was looking forward to understand more on what could be a potential issue. for that, my odds of selecting and filtering the gem of all trades is better. i genuinely believe that maintaining is regular and issues wont succumb unless inappropriate driving style and careless sense when it comes to taking care of a car surfaced. salary perspective, it seems okay. just that, reassuring is what matters most to me now. hahahahaha! im such a silly diehard beemer fan

niklys

Again my bad for the misleading choice of words haha, the sound during acceleration in the 320d is not as exciting as the 325i, thats all, in terms of performance, very similar. At speed the car never gets rough at all, its only very rough (alot of holes) surfaces that upset the suspension.

RFTs are run-flat tyres, look it up, basically tyres that do not puncture.

Can't give insight on other issues as I've not encountered them myself, fingers crossed I don't think maintainence is that bad tbh, most of the people who say conti will kill you in terms of running costs has probably never owned one anyway. If really cannot tahan, selling it also not an issue because the car has already passed the 5 year mark and depreciation not that steep anymore. I say go for it, live life when you are young!

Hi student93,

I believe that sound is subjective, to a person preference. I like it when it's not too loud (i know it's a little feminine and not too man-ly driving hahahaha ) Hmmmmm, the suspension might be of a concern for me. Would prefer a more comfortable ride, even when there's alot of holes or uneven surfaces. is it possible to not get the m-sport suspension? hahahaha, i might be stupid here

Ohhhh, that's what you short form for run-flat tyres? hahahaha! okay, RFT would be good i guess. cost a little more and the upset to the comfort driving is not as significant as the suspension i believe. add some dampening acoustic material to the wheel arch and i guess the road noise would be better

yeah, finger crossed hopefully no problems occur for your end hahahaha! happy for you the fact that your beemer is healthy

The steepness of depreciation is true that after the 5 year mark, it's not as bad. moreover, i believe i would be keeping it for long, probably 10 years down the road (unless tesla decided to make super performance car with cheapo electric cost, then otherwise ). in addition to that, i agree that most non-continental owners do say alot about the negativity, but who am i to judge right? hahahaha! yeah, most probably will go for one, despite the fact that it might be painful for a little while

niklys

I was in the same situation as you 3 years ago, wanting to get a BMW so badly and it was a 323i. It was Rm179k at AB for a 3 year old model. Salary was almost like your salary then and I did not have any commitment. I was using a Satria at that time. Dad agreed and mum did not so plan was cancelled. I was lucky later on because my dad upgraded his car to a continental D segment and I bought over his Japanese D segment car about 2 years ago.

3 years down the road now, I think it was a good decision because after getting a house and funding for my further education, car seems to be less of a priority. Don't get me wrong, I would love to get the E90 (a 325i now) but looking at the depreciation and the condition of the economy, I think it can hold on.

So my advice to you, factor in your future house purchase plan, marriage plan, have adequate savings for any emergencies and then think of the BMW. At least you won't be caught in a financial trap