Yes, you have to be careful pulling out the back module as the speaker wire to the PCB is very short and risk ripping it off the woofer. I've said earlier, I didn't take many pictures so I'm unable to show exactly how to remove the panel. If I remember, there was some difficulty because they put some epoxy adhesive onto the connectors. I reckon these measures are to prevent tampering and repair. Spoilt?..throw away buy new one!.

The sponge (as seen in shop) comes in some colors, 1" thick and about 18" x 20 something inches...unsure what its actual purposes at a DIY hardware shop in Taipan USJ. I've seen some at tailoring supplies shop but its too thin.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Jan 6 2007, 01:16 PM

About 3 months ago, my VS4121 developed a problem....

I get microphonic effects when I touch the cables. The effect mainly comes from the cable that connect the sub module to the stereo speakers. Any ideas how I can solve this problem? I am guessing a rounding point probably came loose.

Jason

ps-by microphonic effect, I mean: when I touch or cause the cable to rub, I get an amplified "rubbing" sound coming out from the speakers too.... weird?

Jason, since you're handy in DIY, you can remove the amplifier module and inspect it closely if there's any broken or dry solder joints at those connector areas. There's 2 modules inside, namely the amplifier board fastened by 4 screws and the PSU transformer assembly above it also fastened by 4 screws. The manufacturer has used some epoxy glue to fasten up some cables and areas for obvious reasons. You may have to use some ingenuity here for removal and its of course not impossible.

Here's a pic of the main modules.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Aug 29 2007, 11:45 AM

bloody hell.. the 4121 suppose to come with the Y-Adapter but there isn't any in it.. Ban Leong says we're suppose to buy it ourselves.. bloody con job if you ask me.

Hi guys...
can help on this VS4121...how you dismantled the subwoofer taiko. can help me?
I have problem to switch on my 4121...why is it ya..i bought it about 4years++ already..

hmm, it is true that vs4121 black edition is the newer version of vs4121??
and the newer is the cutcost version?
the first time I bought these I'm kinda dissapointed, it just doesn't sound like what in the review.
I even thought that it's fake speakers or something like that..
mx5021 have dropped its price from 210$ to 170$ also!
but some tells its a cutcost version too..
ahh, is that for real or just a bad business campaign from the competitors??

oh.. and in previous post some say they found vs4121 in yellow LED?
vs4121 with yellow LED is never exist! except if thats some kind of modification though--

This post has been edited by radi3tz: Sep 28 2009, 12:45 AM

yellow LED.

and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G94RaybZ1Kw

This post has been edited by nismo91: Sep 28 2009, 02:21 AM

looks like green

ohh, sorry for the misinformation..
according to the video on the youtube (that nismo tells us)
the earlier(first time) vs4121 are using green LED. .
then it changes to blue.
at the 70th anniversary of AL, they create the black edition with red light..
also heard that the earlier version(with green LED) are better.
the new ones are cutcost product.. but I just heard it somewhere, not a fact yet..

real Altecs use BLUE
after some time, they change to green(yellow) then new black body with red LED.
i saw many blue lite VS4121 still running fine in old-skool cyber cafe near my home

erm... i did my altec by replacing the 2 satellite output cap (either 2 sticktogether 1000uf for most models or 470uf for atp3) to 16v 2200uf according to the datasheet tda7370b,tda7375 and tda7377
you can also improve the bass by replacing the 16v 220uf cap right before amp ic(tda73XX)
replace the china,taiwanese 'samxon','capxon','gluxon' whatever cap to better ones

i've got mine 16v 2200uf elna re3 for rm1 at KE electronics jln pasar
you might find 220uf for your smoother bass there too i think
and if you are there, you might want to buy fake elna lp5 4700uf for rm5 for your power cap beside the transformers (nnot in pic)
forget the sponge sponge thingy la.. later your amp overheat no space to breathe

small price for your rm200 speaker but goes a long way =)

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Jul 26 2010, 10:18 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

Try see carefully for burn marks on the chips.

hye, i have problem with my 4121, sometimes the sound at high level, then sometimes it decrease the level, i think its probaly the wire connection with the cpu, but i not expert to fix, anyone can guide me how to soft the problem...?

Yea my old VS4121 is blue colour too then lately at shop i notice why become green light di

i'm no expert, but i can try to help you since i'm an altec fan and i have a collection of most popular models
your problem description is vague, do you mind to explain it in better detail? like eg. i've tried changing the input cables, it only happens when i crank up the volume?

common altec problems:

if your 3.5 jack is oxidized, cleaning with lighter fluid (zippo) and a rag would suffice, also look for deforms on your input cable

if the volume drops at a high volume like it has not enough power to boost, then probably you should replace the caps i mentioned above with better ones because altec cut cost use lousy caps.
also you will get significant sound quality boost after mods/repair

also, i guess you don't have a soldering iron and skills, you can purchase it for a cheap price at your local hardware and learn the skills from googling.
remember to practice before attempting to repair/mod your altec..... altec comes with cheap pcb and the trace easily gets ruined =)
and if all fails, buy a new one =) i hoped i helps

the problem am seems to face with the speaker is, when the problem occur as stated before, the only thing i do is by adjusting (a lil bit of twisting) the jack until its fixed. its like the wire of the jack sumkind of loose with the speaker. do i need like to do the soldering to fix the problem permanently?
btw u really help me a lot.
thanks alot... XD

buy a new 3.5mm to RCA cable

your 3.5 cable has oxidized OR your soundcard ones has oxidized have you tried with earphones, other devices?
you can buy a new cable =) or you can clean your oxidized 3.5 by using an emery board (to file your fingernails) gently rub the contacts and wipe it with wet cloth would suffice, if its in your soundcard, you can try using an cotton earbud soaked with WD40 and poke poke the contacts inside
wait it to dry up then try it again, if fails... do what power911 tells you to do =)

i suggest you change TDA7377 (30w) to TDA 7375 (35W) this ic amp also used in old batch atp3 which widely know as the best speaker sound to it price. deep bass will never make you regret. by changing caps it sound better but how better it be? it worth to pay? the core bussines here is IC and driver... after all has been mod capacitor will be the last part you should play with. (fine tuning ur taste). good luck

This post has been edited by kubing: Aug 6 2010, 01:58 PM

heh, all comes down to taste, personally, i prefer tda7370b more dirty more old skool