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 -+♠+-LYN Proton Persona IAFM Owners Club V54-+♠+-, Welcoming new legacy Persona owners!

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SUSadvocado
post Jan 18 2016, 08:14 PM

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My Driver Power Windows failing, and i'm not eligible for the Lifetime Warranty. Is it broken or can still fix with silicone spray?

Started few weeks back when i press auto down it will stuck 2/5 way need to press again to fully down, press up no problem but everytime stuck when it closes will close hard.

Just now same thing happened except now halfway up it doesn't go up, wind down wind up again still stuck halfway, need to use hand to assist the windows to close and when closed it closes really hard. I'm not sure is the motor broke or some gearing issue.

If repair should go back Proton or my usual mechanic? Roughly how much and how long it takes to repair? And if motor fault is there any new design or only have old design?

Also my car squeeks when i brake especially during cold/wet days, any issue with that?

This post has been edited by advocado: Jan 18 2016, 08:15 PM
SUSadvocado
post Jan 19 2016, 12:07 PM

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QUOTE(kennywee92 @ Jan 19 2016, 11:46 AM)
Most probably power window motor. Can get it change within rm100
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some one mention might be the plastic bracket, i can see this is not a common problem for persona...
SUSadvocado
post Jan 19 2016, 04:03 PM

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QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ Jan 19 2016, 03:46 PM)
Not sure if the Persona Elegance has a different design, but the window regulator for mine is metal. The symptom I have experienced so far for a failing power window motor is that it only likes operating once under hot weather before going dead. It comes back to life when it has cooled down a bit. Replacing the window motor is a very easy DIY task.
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is yours pre-facelift? mine is pre-facelift. so the problem is motor not bracket?

replacing is easy, but how to take the door panel apart? and to put back need use glue right?
SUSadvocado
post Jan 19 2016, 09:04 PM

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QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ Jan 19 2016, 04:08 PM)
Yes, mine is pre-facelift. The door panel is held on by screws, all of which should be easily found (5 for front door, 3 for rear). Once you remove all the screws, you just need to slowly pry the door panel off the door. I would suggest running your fingers along the door panel to slowly release it so you don't break the door clips. You can start by pulling the door panel off from the top.

The only thing that you need to worry about is sticking the weather sheet back. I would suggest buying windscreen sealant as well because the butyl strip that holds the weather sheet has probably dried up after so long. Also, be careful when you remove the power window motor from the regulator. The part where the power window motor sits on the regulator is spring loaded.
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hi, do you have any picture or seller that sells the bracket+motor? only one i found is the motor i don't see the bracket:

http://www.lelong.com.my/proton-persona-po...6-05-Sale-P.htm

btw where can i buy those windscreen sealant? Mr.DIY only has those weather stripes, will shops do that for you or if the stips dried out they just leave it?

BTW Motor, Regulator, Bracket are all separate? your problem was the motor or regulator or bracket coz someone say maybe bracket broke i don't know since you say Prefacelift Persona are metal brackets.

another thing with removing door panel, what about the wires connecting the driver side buttons? i dunno speaker is mounted on the inner door panel or outer, also what about the door lock?
SUSadvocado
post Jan 19 2016, 09:06 PM

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QUOTE(wingonnwong @ Jan 19 2016, 04:35 PM)
Ya... Half is better but mine will still jumping. But not frequent as 2 sec.. maybe 30sec - 40sec once... Sienz !!!
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any chance you pumping BHP? coz i know i pump BHP at Kuchai Lama always trip, pump shell no issue.
SUSadvocado
post Jan 19 2016, 09:22 PM

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QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ Jan 19 2016, 09:10 PM)
The regulator is sold separately. Just to go any spare parts shop and ask them for windscreen sealant. It should be between RM10 ~ RM20 and what you'll get is a roll of black sticky stuff.

I don't know anything about a bracket, but my last memory of the power window assembly is it's motor + regulator only. My problem was with the motor. The speaker should be mounted on the door, not on the door panel, so taking the door panel off shouldn't affect it. The connection to the driver side console can easily be plugged out after you remove the door panel. You can also remove it first by removing its screw and then prying/pulling it out of its slot. Finally, you just need to slide the door panel upwards off the door lock at an angle.
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hi, you mention the bracket is metal, is it like this?

http://akubiomed.com/diy-proton-gen2-power-window-regulator/

the main part is metal but the rolling part is plastic, i suspect might be bracket problem because i can wind down but up halfway & above doesn't go, then finally manage to close it closes real hard.

i found the regulator but only 1 link the picture can't really tell how it looks like looks totally different from the one in the blog, is it compatible for both Left & Right?:

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/int...or-bracket.html

if just the regulator broke is it possible to remove the original regulator from the Motor and use the 3rd party bracket?



This post has been edited by advocado: Jan 19 2016, 09:24 PM
SUSadvocado
post Jan 19 2016, 09:28 PM

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QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ Jan 19 2016, 09:25 PM)
That is the window regulator for the rear windows. Unless they changed it, the front should be the scissors type, like this:

user posted image
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yea the link i posted shows front type, but the roller Official & Non-Official both uses plastic parts? so if regulator broke can just remove the original from the original motor and install new?

now problem is i dunno is motor or regulator problem.
SUSadvocado
post Jan 19 2016, 09:37 PM

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QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ Jan 19 2016, 09:32 PM)
I'm not very clear about the rear window regulator. I think for some batch they were using scissors style window regulators as well for the rear, before it became the one with the plastic. If you want to know, just remove your door panel and you should be able to see the window regulator. The job of removing the door panel is really easy. 5 screws, pry it off, and remove the connection for the driver console.

Edit: I don't remember if the rollers on the scissors type regulator are plastics or metal.
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hi, can you tell me the approx locations of the 5 screws for driver door?

the front regulator you showed, all parts are metal except the rollers right coz the reflection i can't see the big gear like plate.

also people mention Bracket, is it same as Regulator, or is it another part because i tried google power window bracket can't find a result.

SUSadvocado
post Jan 19 2016, 09:49 PM

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QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ Jan 19 2016, 09:38 PM)
I'm not sure about what bracket they are talking about.

The location of the 5 screws:
a) 2 securing the door handle cover
b) 1 securing the driver console
c) 1 towards the side mirror
d) 1 at the side of the door panel beside the door lock
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are they hidden with covers or exposed?

thx btw.
SUSadvocado
post Jan 20 2016, 01:40 PM

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QUOTE(kennywee92 @ Jan 20 2016, 01:25 PM)
You planning to DIY it?
I notice you mentioned BHP Kuchai Lama. If you're reside nearby, I intro you to one of the workshop at Happy Garden.
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well if it's only 5 screws i plan on opening up the panel to check which part is faulty whether it's motor or regulator, coz i send to workshop they might not have the parts in stock too. i check not many online sellers selling Motor and also Regulator, chances are they are 3rd party, i don't know if they can last longer than original Proton or not because original Proton roller is plastic.

i can go Happy Garden which shop and how much do they charge for parts & labor?
SUSadvocado
post Jul 24 2016, 12:31 PM

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Anyone had their head gasket changed? how many km & year did you do it?

Mine had leaking engine oil but not severe just stains. less than 40k km.
SUSadvocado
post Jul 24 2016, 12:52 PM

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QUOTE(kinkeet @ Jun 12 2016, 10:11 PM)
any good tyre shop to recommend at ampang area? last time kena conned with chamber screw stuff like that, dun wish to go back to that shop again
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chamber nut is 1 time con job only, since you already kena, no harm going back same shop.

also helps in the long run if your alignment really way off.
SUSadvocado
post Jul 24 2016, 12:58 PM

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QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ Jun 13 2016, 06:36 PM)
Don't think so... I think you haven't found a good and honest shop. I believe that our car's alignment should be done easily considering that the toe for all four wheels can be adjusted without requiring any parts to be changed. When my car was fitted with camber bolts last time (also kena con), they just adjusted the reading to be 0 with the car in the air. But this was on the pretext that the tyres will wear out faster on the outer edge, which doesn't make sense since a more positive camber will make it worse I think, in addition to having bad/aggressive toe adjustments.

My current all round camber readings are - 1.xx deg + and the shop I go to still can make it straight. The toe reading is also affected by the camber, but as far as I can see, as long as they can get the toe adjustment right, the car will go straight. When I first switched to sports suspension, the camber reading was -2 deg left and -3 deg right. The car's alignment still could be done correctly without any adjustments to the camber.
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people say without chamber nut you can adjust it +-5deg. does this apply to most cars?


SUSadvocado
post Jul 24 2016, 01:00 PM

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QUOTE(zr125 @ Jun 18 2016, 05:10 PM)
my persona reverse sensor/light is always on when i switch on key(free gear)... anyone know whats the problem?
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probably some short circuit or microswitch postion at the gear selector ran off.
SUSadvocado
post Jul 24 2016, 01:03 PM

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QUOTE(caesarx @ Jun 10 2016, 10:22 AM)
Just saw about this news in Chinese newspaper, it was not true. I could not find the article in english paper.

But the article said you need to connect negative cable to engine instead of negative terminal at battery.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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search all the Battery DIY webpage will tell you not connect the -ve to the need to be charged -ve battery because this may cause spark when you connect it and cause explosion if there is Hydrogen around. you connect to engine bay metal to ground it.

anyway most shops connect to -ve either way...

they also like to change battery while car is on to avoid resetting ECU & Radio etc but this poses a risk of frying your electronics because no load present when the battery is removed.
SUSadvocado
post Jul 24 2016, 01:07 PM

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QUOTE(Super Saiya @ Jun 7 2016, 01:08 PM)
where to change and how much budget? brand of the battery?
my location is equinne park, is there any nearby shops to suggest?
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amazing you can use over 2 years, most can tahan 1.5 years already good.

i suggest try the Century Wet battery hybrid, no need frequent top up water, just check once every 6 months to be safe. cheaper than dry. one guy in garage section do free delivery.

regarding tyre, if you go highway or drive on rainy season, best to change better tyres... with weak tyre no ABS/VSC/ESP can help much.
SUSadvocado
post Mar 14 2017, 03:36 PM

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Anyone using Michelin PS3 15", what is your tyre pressure on front & rear for optimum handling + wear? I'm having chunks on the outsides, not sure if it's the tyre pressure/road surface/driving style/tyre material.

Also anyone notice headlights dim when the car is at idle? it will dim slightly for 1 second than back to normal, can hear more sound (engine?) when it tries to go back normal brightness, idle rpm is around 900-1k.
SUSadvocado
post Mar 14 2017, 03:48 PM

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QUOTE(Ricky300 @ Mar 6 2017, 05:51 PM)
Depending on whether you the car you intend to buy/sell has any outstanding loan.

Assuming no loan involved,

Seller responsibility:-
1) Secure a buyer
2) Bring the car for inspection (Puspakom)
3) Get the result inspection result, Seller is given 30 days valid period to transfer the ownership.
4) Visit JPJ with Buyer and do the thumbprint. (Seller preference if he/she wants to received the money before or after the transfer)
5) Vehicle is sold.

Buyer responsibility:-
1) Source for a car
2) Confirm with deposit.
3) Visit JPJ with seller once the car past the inspection.
4) Thumbprint at JPJ and the car is yours. (Payment is subject to negotiation between Seller and Buyer)
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hi, the real question for both buyer & seller comes when buying in Cahs:

1.Seller Problem: How to ensure buyers pay and seller gets the money? Transfer ownership 1st or receive payment 1st? If pay by nont direct deposit how to ensure money is legit (no bounce cheque/no fake cash/fake money order)?

2.Buyer Problem: How to ensure seller will honor his deal by transferring the ownership when payment received?

I can think of getting a bank as 3rd party so they receive money from buyer, hold the money and release it to seller once transfer ownership is completed. however usually this cost alot more maybe 10% of total amount.
SUSadvocado
post Mar 14 2017, 06:28 PM

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QUOTE(Ricky300 @ Mar 14 2017, 05:05 PM)
i normally pay everything in JPJ.
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how do you pay everything including car price in JPJ?
SUSadvocado
post Mar 16 2017, 03:21 PM

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what is the wiper size?

i went ACE there is 2 charts from different brand both give different sizes for L & R. do we follow exact size or based on brand sizing?

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