If you want a foldable bike, you should get one. Modifying one is risking one's life.

I agree, but that means the bike will remain for show only. Not much fun going longer distances. Some japanese owners do it rather well, upgrading the bike with modern bits and larger 349 wheels and tyres.

I think the original mudguards would be difficult to find. As they are made of hard plastic, they break easily.

May have to find some modern ones which would be far more robust. In any case, the bike will never be ridden in the rain

[quote=KenC,Aug 10 2016, 01:32 AM]
[QUOTE]
stainless steel bike don't ride in rain, kesian the bike…

How about this?
[attachmentid=7287074]

[/quote]

Perfect, please send me at least 8, ok?

I still have mine. Unfortunately, it is way too low geared. Mine uses freewheel so I couldnt find a replacement with a 11t sprocket. I hope they have improved the bike after all these years. It is a solid bike but heavy.

The name of that freewheel sound familiar, maybe I did change it. Remember thinking it wasn't very high quality item, like Shimano. In the end it suited my sister so it is now sitting in a cupboard somewhere....

Walau..... there's only one sifu lah.....etigge. I'm only a grasshopper who like playing with bikes

Most of my foldies are shod with Marathons and my Speed TR on Big Apple. I haven't really noticed the difference in rolling resistance, mainly because I ride on average 25-28km/h. What I have noticed is how much easier it is on my Surly with 700c Mavic wheels. I put it down to better hubs, bigger wheels and no hub gears. Because there are so many factors at play, I consider the differences between tyres are fairly minor. I value time saved not having to fix punctures, so I am prepared to roll a little slower.

I see a lot of bikes on Kojaks, while tempting, I will stick to my Marathons. I have a set of Supremes but have not tried them yet.

Big Apples are definitely more comfortable, more volume lower pressure. Have not run Big Apples long enough to know if they give better puncture protection over the Marathons.

I did get a puncture on the front Marathon of the Birdy last week. Looks like it was due to a small split in the tube rather than a puncture. Cheng Shin tube.......

Just for tcb2012.....

I just went for a 30km ride to test out the new Big Apples on my Speed TR. Very windy day, cool 16 degrees. Pumped up the tyres to its max around 70psi. Still cushioned ride but 60psi is much better. Because of the wind, south-westerly 36kmh, so sections I was crawling at 15kmh or so.....😂
That being the case, all I can say is if you want comfort stick to Big A, otherwise Marathon or Kojak or Durano if you want speed over puncture protection.

👌


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Haha, yes that is the upper end of the range. 40psi would be too soft, maybe thats wht the pedalling effort is high?

I don't foresee touring on my Speed TR anytime soon, so will consider selling it if someone is interested.
The bike is in excellent condition, unmarked paint work. Everything works flawlessly. Comes with an extra dynamo front wheel if you want to run the original headlight. New Big Apple tyres.
Hard to find classic. To save you asking how much, I would expect over rm2000. Can send photos if you are serious. Bike only available in Jan 2017 when I'm in KL.
😀

Why 24"? Neither here nor there. So much better tyre choices in 20" and they fold smaller.

I don't believe you can cross mtb shifters/derailieurs with road ones. RDs are dumb and controlled by the shifter. You are correct in saying that the range of gears can be covered using the limit screws. Important thing is the pull ratio of the shifter, whether it is 2:1 or 1:1. If the shifter and RD matches this ratio, then you should be able to use say an 8 speed shifter with a 10 speed RD.

Don't forget the chain. I recently replaced the cranks and RD to 105 10 speed, but using the existing 9 speed shifter. Works well but occasionally it wouldn't shift a gear up or down or sometimes changes up two gears. Can't fine tune, but when I decided to try using an Ultegra 10 speed chain, all of a sudden all the shifting problems went away!

RM11,600 for a Tern?? No thanks!

Im glad to hear they all work well together! You know, sometimes we mod knowing it will not improve anything but we hope it will, haha or we do it because of colour scheme etc.

I agree with Sifu E that sometimes it is hard to justify the cost of parts that actually does very little to improve the efficiency of the bike. I think the best upgrade must be a good wheelset, but unfortunately a good set could be as much as a whole bike!

Can I ask you girls and guys for your opinion on the Litepro K Fun and K Pro wheelsets. Are the bearings smooth? Whats the difference between the two?
Thanks!

Too much power loss from the stock crank? Don't think that can be easily felt, maybe you meant that it is more flexy?

Anyway, a lot of these mods are done to feel good rather than any measured efficiency. Good fun regardless.

Do you need higher gears? ie to go faster? If so why bother with double front chainrings? You just need a bigger chainring, say 56t or 60t. That way you are sacrificing lower gears for higher gears.
You wont need to go Ultegra RD unless youve got money to burn. Tiagra or 105 will do the job and you wont notice any difference.

If you want more lower gears. ie climbing, then refer to sifu's comments.

LOL!

If you had installed an Ultegra RD, you would have made it easily!