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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V69, 69 :3

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cain11
post Dec 15 2015, 07:48 AM

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QUOTE(THE CLASS OF 13 @ Dec 14 2015, 11:44 PM)
off topic

wts spring and absorber

1.one set stock spring from saga flx rm80
2.front right side heavy duty absorber GReber rm50
3.front left side standard oem blm/fl absorber apm i think rm70

do pm or call me straight at 0129154850
cod klang or shah alam
thanks guysssss
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I also have some used part to sell.
BTW, where to post used car spare part for sell in lowyat? .Sorry, I'm not familiar with it. Thanks.
cain11
post Dec 15 2015, 10:05 PM

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QUOTE(iskazulka @ Dec 15 2015, 09:34 AM)
Thanks
cain11
post Dec 23 2015, 01:39 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Dec 21 2015, 04:15 PM)
1) when you have kork kork sound when braking
2) when you have kork kork sound when accelerating
3) when you have kork kork sound when turning
4) when you have kork kork sound when rolling on uneven roads
5) when you have kork kork sound when rolling on even roads
6) when you have kork kork sound when going over speed humps
7) when the interior you feel the vibration is like huark
8) when you feel the vibration from the seteering is like huark
9) when you feel the vibration from your car seats is like getting huark
10) when you feel like kena toto/magnum/damacai
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My car fulfill item 2 , 3 and 8, but still yet meet item 10.
Engine mounting has to one shot replace 4 pcs or just replace front and back mounting will do? The left right mounting look big and solid.
cain11
post Dec 23 2015, 03:38 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Dec 23 2015, 02:13 PM)
jack up the car. usually the one that goes kaput first is the one below, between the exhaust 'nenas' and engine. Second is the one in front of the radiator. Kira is front and back mounting la.
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Thanks.
Checked. Front and back confirm worn out, looks sagging .
Move a lot when engage from N to D with brake apply.

Left and right mounting will last longer? How to verify left &right mounting worn out too? 4.5years car.

cain11
post Dec 23 2015, 07:27 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Dec 23 2015, 03:44 PM)
after change the front and back, if still gegar gegar krak krak like huark then change also lo. But usually those two rarely fails first.
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Noted. Thanks

cain11
post Dec 23 2015, 09:53 PM

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Just now my engine auto shut down during idling , start again and it auto shut down again . Tried few times still same behavior, finally notice that engine temperature rise to 5 bar. Air cond also has louder noise when the gas is flow through the expansion valve.

My car down on road tonight with bonnet open , after inspection discover the connector of radiator fan was disconnected. Check engine coolant condition was ok no smoke no smell ,reconnect the fan connector and let it idle for few minute. Temperature bar drop back to 3 bar then I drive back to home. I suspected previously the foreman disconnect the connector and forget to plug back this afternoon.

I was drive my car for about 15km mix of city and and highway including traffic jam at night.. Should I inspect any component or others that may cause potential problem in future? My car is AT 4 speed.

This post has been edited by cain11: Dec 23 2015, 09:58 PM
cain11
post Dec 24 2015, 08:18 AM

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QUOTE(ohcipala @ Dec 23 2015, 11:18 PM)
Any place to buy topup paint (fire red) ? My door got dent and some paint chipped.
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Did you means this one
http://kereta.info/car-scratches-touch-up-paint-repair/
cain11
post Dec 24 2015, 08:21 AM

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QUOTE(carcraze66 @ Dec 23 2015, 10:45 PM)
afaik if the fan was disconnected that means the foreman forgot to plug it back and thats what causes the issue probably?
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I also don't know. Just hope after the engine overheat, nothing damage or degrade. Anyway anything to inspect?
cain11
post Dec 24 2015, 01:55 PM

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QUOTE(ohcipala @ Dec 24 2015, 12:18 PM)
Ya something like that. Have you use this?
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4years ago, I bought the 'solid white' for Proton and applied on my scratch area. But the color a bit out from my original paint which cause quite ugly. Finally I send for re paint at workshop.
Is ok to try since one bottle still cheap, if everything ok u can keep it for future use.

cain11
post Dec 24 2015, 02:09 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Dec 24 2015, 12:27 PM)
When the temperature high until engine shut down, it means the over heating already caused your air fuel mixture inefficient to burn anymore. There's a chance that your gasket already fried. There's nothing much you can troubleshoot or do, but you can continue to monitor and hope things is fine.

1) Monitor your engine oil color on weekly basis. Make sure the color stays BLACK. Should you see the color become NESCAFE AIS or KOPI BENG from restaurant, means your head gasket already fried.

2) Monitor your engine oil LEVEL on weekly basis. Make sure the oil level stays the same atleast for the next 2 months / 5000km. If you notice oil level decreasing on weekly basis, on a hot afternoon whilst your engine is in working temperature, get someone help you step on the gas pedal to simulate a 4krpm revs, you yourself go to the back of the car and monitor your ekzos see if got white smoke kamout. If yes, meaning piston ring sudah koyak. Again, nothing much you can do but continue to drive the car and top up engine oil. Until you have budget of 2.5k, then send the car for full overhaul, may be can consider 1 shot kasi stroke up 1.6 brows.gif

3) If item no.2 detected engine oil consistently decreasing yet no white smoke, there may be engine oil leak. If you can see it drip on the floor, that's not too horrible. Could be crankshaft oil seal, camshaft oil seal. All these can be changed externally without going through major surgery. However, if you can't see oil drip on the floor and engine oil consistently decreasing and no white smoke.... bugger your engine is beyond item no.1 damage. In the morning before warm up engine, start it and open radiator cap to see the coolant change color from whatever it is originally(green/red/brown/rusty orange), to slowly turn white. This means engine oil goes into your coolant.

If none of the above happen to you for the next 2 months, congratulations you just saved yourself from a major overhaul that may cost you 2.5k. nod.gif

Good luck
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Thanks a lot David for the detail checklist. I will monitor it.
cain11
post Dec 26 2015, 12:13 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Dec 26 2015, 10:49 AM)
First of all, welcome to the club.

Now, serious business. Your friend is half correct, it all depending on what Plotong have balance in hand. So not surprise if you got rim kompang where you see other pipu gets alloy. Regardless, you're already in good hand since u traded in for a good old TE37 looked rims. The throttle lag will take sometime to adapt, and much significant on manual tranny engine as the "lag" on CVT has been compensated with transmission lag. Hendling wise... I'd like to request a photoshot of your ID plate under your B pillar step sill area. Ayam suspecting you get yourself an FL instead of FLX hmm.gif

Not saying FL or FLX better, FL got it's own advantage interms of handling. FLX no doubt it feels harder on the suspension, but agility wise FL can tapau a stock FLX with some tweak.

Last but not lease, piktar plis! I think most if not all of us like to see another GaGa with sporty look rims running around and dominate the globe surface thumbup.gif
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FL got it's own advantage interms of handling? hmm.gif What is FL advantage in term of handling? I owned FL ,only feel same handling with FLX after did some chassis strengthening.

What is the tweak for FL(AT) to tapau FLX ? icon_question.gif Personally feel FLX 1.3(CVT) improved the torque in between 1.5-2k rpm. The acceleration of 1.3 FLX CVT almost same with my 1.6FL AT at low end torque.



cain11
post Dec 31 2015, 10:45 PM

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QUOTE(koh_424 @ Dec 31 2015, 01:17 PM)
Looking for Saga FLX front & rear original spring & absorber. tongue.gif
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Pm you already.

cain11
post Jan 16 2016, 10:05 AM

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QUOTE(NewbieBetta @ Jan 15 2016, 07:52 PM)
Anyone here can share with me Saga FL maintenance schedule table?
I lost mine and I cant seems to find the Saga FL on website.

update:
After checking my service booklet for Saga FL 4AT, transmission oil is change every 40,000km??
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Although service booklet stated 40k.
I change mine with 20-25k interval due to everyday traffic jam.33km take 2 hour to reach destination with my work route.
Most of the time only use gear 1 and gear 2.ATF still running inside torque convertor , pump....... etc when gear in D with brake applied, ATF heatup more with torque convertor in stall.
cain11
post Jan 16 2016, 03:09 PM

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QUOTE(uncleben @ Jan 16 2016, 10:57 AM)
hi guys.. jz wanna ask.. my original ramcar battery are already needing replacement after nearly 4 years of service.. can any1 rec any good battery in price n longevity?
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Currently using Hyundai Enercell maintenance free battery,serve me until today 2 years 10months still function well. RM 190 during purchase inculding trade in old battery.

Personally recommend it.

cain11
post Jan 17 2016, 04:39 PM

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QUOTE(uncleben @ Jan 17 2016, 11:19 AM)
ty bro.. the shop i went dont have the model u said.. but he said globalt brand is good brand from korea.. so i change to that..

Last time the tyre shop boss told me, Korea car consume a lot of electric, so Korea battery design to handle it. He said it should last longer on national car. The shop no longer sell this battery, my another car also use Korea battery.
cain11
post Jan 28 2016, 03:39 PM

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QUOTE(carcraze66 @ Jan 27 2016, 09:35 PM)
sifu, if rear brake cylinder jammed stil got what other symptoms? haha

mine only got "screeching" or should i call "liquid suction sound" coming from rear wheel only during morning  sweat.gif  sweat.gif

went to SC previously service brake or whatever then no more, now balik sudah
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My rear brake have loud screeching since 4X k mileage , only when brake in cool ambient temperature .Example early morning, after car wash and raining day. Open up discover that is a lot of brown color dust and after service brake no more sound any more. But everytime after service only last for 8-12k km the rear sound effect come back again. FYI, I brake more than 500times everyday with my traffic jam work route.
cain11
post Jan 29 2016, 12:56 PM

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QUOTE(Maxwell6635 @ Jan 28 2016, 05:52 PM)
blink.gif 5XX per day , better check ur rear brake lor , but ur brake pad seem so lasting . Never Change before?
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Changed on 3Xk km due to uneven wear rate in between left and right cause by brake cylinder jam,now running on 2nd set of drum shoe.



QUOTE(TitanRev @ Jan 28 2016, 07:49 PM)
Other cars also have my neighbour vios also every morning hear his yeee brake sound. My ex pug206 also have this sound. my grandis sometimes also have especially if that day weather was humid.
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First set of drum shoe from factory did not create any sound at all.
Workshop foreman tend to tell me my front brake pad has worn out already rclxub.gif when they hear the 'screeching' sound before they inspect the brake pad. The sound always mislead people that the brake pad worn out indicator is touching disc brake.

Any method to avoid it happen so frequent? Some time is quite scary especially at early morning when I brake at speed bump beside senior citizen or child icon_question.gif
cain11
post Jan 30 2016, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(TitanRev @ Jan 29 2016, 02:28 PM)
Brake lightly 1st dont brake too hard when just start to drive so less sound.
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Noted with thanks thumbup.gif
cain11
post Feb 4 2016, 09:52 PM

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QUOTE(coolkwc @ Feb 4 2016, 05:13 PM)
Well the sign of noisy started since 1st day i put on the car. whistling.gif

I only have problem to wear it down now. but finally it seems reach that point after an aggressive drive in recent 6 months. whistling.gif  Seriously this tyre can last until 70k, ...same driving style (more conservative) can last M3 and CC5 40-45k only.

Will change tyre after CNY, but won't be XM2 or those 'ECO' tyre anymore.
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My XM2 185/60/14 , clocked at 45k km. Front left 2.5mm & rear 1mm of thread from wear indicator. Aggressive drive at the 1st half of its life,the 420 thread wear not 'play play' one ,really last. notworthy.gif Silent than stock Goodyear Ducaro, also noise level not much raise from 1st day until now cool2.gif But crack a lot at the outside thread due to aggressive corner,going to try other brand 185/65/14 on next drool.gif Personally feel that Ducaro has better grip on dry road.
cain11
post Feb 13 2016, 11:36 AM

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QUOTE(king_lover23 @ Feb 12 2016, 11:36 AM)
thx for ur reply...
so it meas that the "tikus" sound might come from the timing belt side?
either fead belt or tensioner bearing?
but is the "tikus" sound will get louder when passing by uneven road due to bearing?
Because when the car is idling, the "tikus" sound just very very minor..  blink.gif
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Previously my car also has same "tikus" inside engine bay making noise,it make noise depend on its mood rclxub.gif . After replace the FEAD belt tensioner, the "tikus" dumb already. whistling.gif Old version of tensional was metal roller, new version is plastic roller.
According to Proton SA, they discover after the bearing heat up and making noise they changed the design to plastic roller for all Campro engine .Now day all new proton model come with plastic roller belt tensional.

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