if you're going to be pulling at around 20amps 25r is still recommended over the hg2 or 30q (both of which is fine if below 20amps). if above 20amps, vtc4 or vtc5 (just make sure you get them from credible sources since so much fake ones)

it's easier (and safer) to get 26650 batteries and pair it with a chunky mech mod since they have innate higher amp ratings if you plan on building <0.1ohm

those lg batteries while having true 30amp rating, at 0.1 ohm with an 18650 hybrid top cap mech you're already pulling 40+ amp. which is unsafe

you need at least 5amp headroom than what the batteries are rated to be safe. even tests shows 35amp and 40amp was to be done with caution.

on one point I do stand corrected, which is that the Sony 26650s are basically elusive now and even so they were closer to 30amp than the rated 50amp.

a parallel mech box mod with 25r is still easier to obtain locally to go below 0.1ohm safely.

in a perfect world scenario parallel doubles your amperage and mAh. while series doubles the voltage, in a nutshell

shut up! you're supposed to be my alarmist right hand :c

and yeah I'm just glad I didn't lose an eye when I was using my hades thinking I was the dog's danglers doing low sub ohms ;;

even nkon.nl doesn't have those lg hb6s. that oem game too strong

sub ohm tanks innately have more airflow to generate (I refuse to use the term chuck) more vapor, while "flavour chasing" tanks usually have more restrictive airflow (paired with a higher resistance and lower wattage). but in reality even on sub ohm tanks you could still get good flavour, just some relatively more than others depending on your build.

tl;dr - you burn more juice on sub ohm tanks xD

get the competition cap by anarchist to support crazy builds c:

which I happen to be selling!

/smooth

what. your mod gets hot? you sure it isn't arcing? when was the last time you cleaned it

for a mech mod, wash with dish soap since it has degreaser > dry > isopropyl rub down threads, inside of tube, switch assembly, floating pin > polish for brass / copper tube, switch assembly or mineral oil rub down for those that's coated. I do an extra step to ensure minimal voltage drop but that's just me

for regulated, just the contacts I guess

brasso for brass / copper contacts is perfectly fine to remove patina. a wipe with isopropyl after removes any residue and doesn't scratch the hell out of your contact if you were to say, use steel wool on it.

as for using mineral oil on mods that isn't naked, know your mod. it isn't hard to figure out what works best for what your mod is coated with to protect that finish xD

the only regulated mod I kept is my rdna40 vaporshart and I just sharpied the missing paint bits that happens to all vaporsharts xD

could try using a silver marker and smudging it into the scratch and wiping off the excess with your finger

it's safe, since there're three 18650 cells it replicates the 3 cell lipo packs most slimmer dna200 devices uses

if you vape constantly at 120w, once your battery drains and is unable to push that much it'll just give you a weak battery message c:

check out pbusardo's three part tut on the dna200 chip. the one thing you might wanna set is the internal resistance for your mod to get a more accurate reading (which vaporshart actually did for their dna200)

other than that it's basically just know which wires goes for which mode and plug and play c:

also download escribe!


addendum -
remember to marry those three batteries. use them only exclusively with each other, as well as charging those 3 together to try and get a gradual decrease as you use them

This post has been edited by olivur: Nov 17 2015, 08:03 PM

it runs 3 batteries in parallel. even a battery rated to be safe at 15amp would (in a perfect scenario) triple your amp rating and mAh by 3

that and in a regulated device while ohm's law still applies regulated mods has a dc dc converter not to mention transformers to actually deliver constant voltage even as the battery's actual voltage drops unlike on mech mods

This post has been edited by olivur: Nov 17 2015, 08:07 PM

which version is yours? the original tugboat tube mod had obvious vent holes at the bottom while the v2 tugboat tube which I had in copper had a single vent hole at the switch itself where the flawless logo is. which the cerakoted / splatter ones has as well

the chip does all that for you with appropriate cut offs and warnings if shit hits the fan xD

check out pbusardo's three part video on the dna200!

introduction -

http://youtu.be/6KQGxsYfG9U

and a three part break down on the dna200

https://youtu.be/Bywx-twQMM8
https://youtu.be/csOQTYEht5I
https://youtu.be/D3vNJRT0uh4

This post has been edited by olivur: Nov 17 2015, 08:26 PM

miji milk so famous

wash it with dish soap and water and rinse thoroughly! dish soap has degreaser

don't get me wrong, while I find his methods thorough I hate seeing how he handles his stuff. scratches the hell out of shit by just unboxing them e_e makes me cringe a little

and yeah, not a fan of regulated mods myself either, sold off my cloupor, p3 and m class but kept my vaporshart rdna40 just to dry burn my coils at lower wattage xD

mech mods will survive the magnetic pulse apocalypse! just need to figure out how to power one with a potato.

This post has been edited by olivur: Nov 18 2015, 11:07 AM

escribe vs sxi-q

evolv vs yihi

murica vs china

most wattage pants off dance off™

taking bets! taking bets!

This post has been edited by olivur: Nov 18 2015, 08:50 PM

vaporshark dna200 is "more accurate" because they actually set the internal resistance for you. you'd still need to do it yourself on other dna200 devices via escribe

yihi has sxi-q to counter evolv's escribe which while might be in chinglish would still allow you to set your device to your preference

This post has been edited by olivur: Nov 18 2015, 09:00 PM

read - sxi-q control system. until it's actually released the jury is still out. one thing for sure is that you can't claim one is already better than the other.

off topic, but I find it redundant to get a device with 200w which is already overkill and hobbyist tier, then to further add to the irony by getting premade settings instead of tinkering on your own.