Yes. Auto focus is not so crucial in such a wide angle lens.
No matter how you shoot still sharp one. Therefore I am not worry about manual focus in CV15

SPAM SPAM taken using a7 haha


This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 3 2015, 03:30 PM

Are you referring to hyperfocal?

Hi, total newbie here.

I have always envied the beautiful photographs taken by DSLRs. However, the sight of tourists lugging around heavy looking cameras and lenses put me off until I read up on mirrorless cameras.

Six weeks ago I bought a Sony A6000 (with kit lens) and picked up a SEL5518Z which was on sale. I was blown away by the results.


Auto mode indoor low-light conditions


Manual mode | ƒ/22.0 55.0 mm 2 100

Mating the SEL5518Z to the Sony A6000 results in a comical (for me) tele/portrait lens. My crash course in digital photography began as I read all that I could online. I was itching to know how the SEL5518Z will perform on a full frame. I knew my days on the APS-C sensor were numbered.


A7RM2 + SEL1635Z

I've had the Sony ILCE-7RM2 for a week now, bought together with the SEL1635Z (on sale as well). After working for over 20 years I am fortunate to have the budget to spend on gear. From my reading online I took the advice of buying the best gear one can afford and just go out and shoot pictures, which in my instance would be picture of my children, landscape and architectural photos when travelling.


Auto Mode | ƒ/4.0 19.0 mm 1/60 3200


Auto Mode | ƒ/14.0 16.0 mm 1/80 100

Looking forward to learning a lot from all of your here.

Cheers!

nice equipment u got there

btw where do you buy the FE 16-35? wanna to buy one too.

I'm not sure what's the correct term to it, but I think it's Zone Focusing? Or is it Hyper Focal? Or are they the same concept but different terms? LOL! One for sure, it's confusing like hell, especially the calculation part. Anyway. Why set to to f/8-11? It tend to delay the shot about 1/2 a second, and if I move during that time, it'll be blurred. I usually set to f2.8-4 or with the kit lens, it's always at the largest possible. Oh, and since I'm on this lens, I can only be using 67mm filters, right?

Got it from a local IT store (PC Image), they were having a Merdeka promo or something, considerable discount from retail price.

This post has been edited by dctravels: Nov 3 2015, 07:48 PM

The Voigtlander is M-mount right? As I know E-mount version haven't released yet.

LOL
Not even a AF zoom?

I dont have any zoom lens

M Mount, pair with CV VM-E Close Focusing Adapter!

In KL?

Love the 1st photo! Lovely Girl

better get the M-mount version. It can be used with other mount through different adapter.
with e-mount close focusing adapter, u can get VERYYYYYYY close focusing distance.

the pro of e-mount version is having EXIF data only. I think the e-mount version will not have close focusing function.

Google search the store. seems only based in east malaysia - sarawak, sabah

btw, i try to shoot with canon 24-70 F4.

here the sample, hazy dayyy
DSC06851 by ckinhoe, on Flickr

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 3 2015, 09:23 PM

I op for M-Mount too, can use for my GXR too

Send the link you're confused about them at least we'll know what's it about you're referring to.

Sorry for not being clear first time. Yes, bought it in Kuching from one of their outlets. SEL5518Z around RM3k and SEL1635Z for around RM4k. Impulse buy with minimal research as I have year-end trips coming up. Then again, it's not like there's plenty of choice at the moment. I did enquire on the Batis 25mm f/2 but no confirmed delivery dates could be given.

Thank you!

Yoga shoot

DSC02040-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr

Well, like lwliam said, send in the link and we'll figure it out together.

But from what you initially said ("setting a certain distance on the MF so that whenever I shoot, subjects covered in the distance will be focus whereas the rest would be out of focus") it pretty much sounds like Zone Focusing.

Okay, let's break things down to the basics. That said, I might be wrong so people feel free to correct me.

Zone Focusing = Prefocusing your lens so that you have a fair idea of what would be in focus, depending of DOF as per your set aperture and focal length.

Example: Set to f/8 and 3m (by the markings on your lens, in this case the Samyang) and you can be roughly sure that things should be in focus within a wide range around 3m (say roughly between 1m-5m... I lazy to calculate).

DOF = That range (1m-5m) where things can be (to you) considered as being "in-focus". This depends on set aperture and focal length (and to a lesser extent, to what level of sharpness you can accept something as being "in-focus").

The 2/12 is an UWA so it has a comparatively larger DOF at all aperture ranges compared to a lens with a longer FL (when focused at similar distances). That's why a 50mm set to f/2 focused to 1 metre gives you a much thinner DOF compared to a 12mm set to f/2 focused at the same distance.

Hyperfocal Distance = This refers to the distance at which you set your lens (according to the markers on the lens) for a set aperture (say f/8) so that your lens will focus on a range between a certain set distance (say 1m) to infinity (the horizon... and beyond!).

In other words, what you achieve by setting your lens to this "Hyperfocal Distance" is a DOF that stretches between a certain distance to infinity - rather than between certain set distances (as with Zone Focusing).

So, in short:

When you are shooting landscapes, you want to maximise DOF, hence stopping down to smaller apertures (like f/8-11) and setting it to the Hyperfocal Distance to get as much things in focus as you can.

*Of course, you could actually stop it down even further to get even more DOF... but beyond f/16 diffraction sets in and that's an entirely different problem altogether*

That said, stopping down to smaller apertures mean that shutter speed will suffer (because you usually want to keep the camera at or around base ISO for best image quality - which usually is ISO200-400) - unless you're shooting in very good light.

So you mount your camera on a tripod so that it would still take sharp pictures at low shutter speeds.

Ze End.

Bear in mind this entire exercise is for shooting things with optimum DOF for landscapes. Shooting other stuff require entirely different approaches altogether lol.

Also, sometimes your might not *want* everything to be in focus lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 3 2015, 11:59 PM