Nov 4 2015, 09:28 AM
QUOTE(lwliam @ Nov 3 2015, 09:45 PM)
Send the link you're confused about them at least we'll know what's it about you're referring to.
QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 3 2015, 11:28 PM)
Well, like lwliam said, send in the link and we'll figure it out together.
But from what you initially said ("setting a certain distance on the MF so that whenever I shoot, subjects covered in the distance will be focus whereas the rest would be out of focus") it pretty much sounds like Zone Focusing.
Okay, let's break things down to the basics. That said, I might be wrong so people feel free to correct me.
Zone Focusing = Prefocusing your lens so that you have a fair idea of what would be in focus, depending of DOF as per your set aperture and focal length.
Example: Set to f/8 and 3m (by the markings on your lens, in this case the Samyang) and you can be roughly sure that things should be in focus within a wide range around 3m (say roughly between 1m-5m... I lazy to calculate).
DOF = That range (1m-5m) where things can be (to you) considered as being "in-focus". This depends on set aperture and focal length (and to a lesser extent, to what level of sharpness you can accept something as being "in-focus").
The 2/12 is an UWA so it has a comparatively larger DOF at all aperture ranges compared to a lens with a longer FL (when focused at similar distances). That's why a 50mm set to f/2 focused to 1 metre gives you a much thinner DOF compared to a 12mm set to f/2 focused at the same distance.
Hyperfocal Distance = This refers to the distance at which you set your lens (according to the markers on the lens) for a set aperture (say f/8) so that your lens will focus on a range between a certain set distance (say 1m) to infinity (the horizon... and beyond!).
In other words, what you achieve by setting your lens to this "Hyperfocal Distance" is a DOF that stretches between a certain distance to infinity - rather than between certain set distances (as with Zone Focusing).
So, in short:
When you are shooting landscapes, you want to maximise DOF, hence stopping down to smaller apertures (like f/8-11) and setting it to the Hyperfocal Distance to get as much things in focus as you can.
*Of course, you could actually stop it down even further to get even more DOF... but beyond f/16 diffraction sets in and that's an entirely different problem altogether*
That said, stopping down to smaller apertures mean that shutter speed will suffer (because you usually want to keep the camera at or around base ISO for best image quality - which usually is ISO200-400) - unless you're shooting in very good light.
So you mount your camera on a tripod so that it would still take sharp pictures at low shutter speeds.
Ze End.
Bear in mind this entire exercise is for shooting things with optimum DOF for landscapes. Shooting other stuff require entirely different approaches altogether lol.
Also, sometimes your might not *want* everything to be in focus lol.
WAH. I cannot believe I woke up to this... Haha. But from what you initially said ("setting a certain distance on the MF so that whenever I shoot, subjects covered in the distance will be focus whereas the rest would be out of focus") it pretty much sounds like Zone Focusing.
Okay, let's break things down to the basics. That said, I might be wrong so people feel free to correct me.
Zone Focusing = Prefocusing your lens so that you have a fair idea of what would be in focus, depending of DOF as per your set aperture and focal length.
Example: Set to f/8 and 3m (by the markings on your lens, in this case the Samyang) and you can be roughly sure that things should be in focus within a wide range around 3m (say roughly between 1m-5m... I lazy to calculate).
DOF = That range (1m-5m) where things can be (to you) considered as being "in-focus". This depends on set aperture and focal length (and to a lesser extent, to what level of sharpness you can accept something as being "in-focus").
The 2/12 is an UWA so it has a comparatively larger DOF at all aperture ranges compared to a lens with a longer FL (when focused at similar distances). That's why a 50mm set to f/2 focused to 1 metre gives you a much thinner DOF compared to a 12mm set to f/2 focused at the same distance.
Hyperfocal Distance = This refers to the distance at which you set your lens (according to the markers on the lens) for a set aperture (say f/8) so that your lens will focus on a range between a certain set distance (say 1m) to infinity (the horizon... and beyond!).
In other words, what you achieve by setting your lens to this "Hyperfocal Distance" is a DOF that stretches between a certain distance to infinity - rather than between certain set distances (as with Zone Focusing).
So, in short:
When you are shooting landscapes, you want to maximise DOF, hence stopping down to smaller apertures (like f/8-11) and setting it to the Hyperfocal Distance to get as much things in focus as you can.
*Of course, you could actually stop it down even further to get even more DOF... but beyond f/16 diffraction sets in and that's an entirely different problem altogether*
That said, stopping down to smaller apertures mean that shutter speed will suffer (because you usually want to keep the camera at or around base ISO for best image quality - which usually is ISO200-400) - unless you're shooting in very good light.
So you mount your camera on a tripod so that it would still take sharp pictures at low shutter speeds.
Ze End.
Bear in mind this entire exercise is for shooting things with optimum DOF for landscapes. Shooting other stuff require entirely different approaches altogether lol.
Also, sometimes your might not *want* everything to be in focus lol.
Why f/8? 3 meter or 3 feet? Because as on the lens, max is 3 feet, which is about 1 meter. And the Infinity mark, I believe it means anything beyond 1 meter or 3 feet, yeah?
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one more reason to buy a7ii instead of a7
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