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TSphoenixxx
post Nov 7 2015, 08:25 PM

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QUOTE(windwong @ Oct 24 2015, 08:56 PM)
1. I will extend the groundfloor toilet to the wash area and vent to backlane. Access utility from the dinning. Ill even consider to access toilet from dinning> utility > toilet.

Have considered changing location of groundfloor toilet to the back. Not main concern now, only if budget allows. Otherwise will leave as is.

Knock the kitchen dinning wall to make one open space with island/peninsula in btw.

Exactly what I'm doing. It will really open up the space, just picturing it makes me feel happy already tongue.gif

2. I will remodel the masterbedroom toilet to the side. Not hard as you are already doing a whole new room above your porch. the existing toilet will be a good spot for walking closet. Also, brand new toilet in your master will be a highlight

Doing this as well.

3. for the 2 smaller bathroom remodelling, I will hesitate to touch cause U are gaining only little usable squarefoot but the work will be huge. I will leave it and spend the money just on re-tiling, changing the vanity and toilet bowl. give them refresh but not total remodel.
Upstairs toilet might extend together with the room. Original plan wanted to make 2 bathrooms out of it, now I think I'm just going to make it bigger and leave it as sharing to save cost.

By the way, nice house! do update us on the progress
Definitely will share on the progress. Now planning phase, nothing much to show yet. icon_rolleyes.gif
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This post has been edited by phoenixxx: Nov 7 2015, 08:26 PM
halcyon27
post Nov 8 2015, 08:18 AM

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QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Nov 7 2015, 08:15 PM)
Thanks all for the replies. Been busy seeing contractors, so nothing really to update here. So far prices range from 120k - 200+k on rough estimates.

Given the option, I would agree to keep the terrazo & parquet however the main concern is only to match the flooring of the new extended areas. The few contractors I've spoken with says new terrazo will be off-colour compared to the existing even after polish.

After getting a better feel of the prices (probably easily 200k) I'm now in cost-cutting mode to try and save some cost for other things (solar, grills, etc etc all not counted yet).

From the original plan, I've decided:
1) not to extend one of the back rooms to preserve the inner yard
2) if possible, maintain flooring - ground & 1st floor
3) not sure if I need 3 phase. There's a 3-phase thread that I've been reading so far but havent really come to a conclusion yet (40 pagesĀ  sweat.gif ). It seems the safer and costlier way of course is to do 3-phase.

However, there's a potential hidden cost that I've not really factored in - the roof - depending on condition, might be a headache.
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Turbine ventilator and Parsec roof insulation (must be laid over the roof battens - the wood supporting the tiles) from this company. Ask them to perforate it at the point where the ventilator neck base meets the insulation foil. Air ventilated into the roof space must have an exit point otherwise it's unhealthy. This would be a good chance to check the roof space, roof support wood quality and tiles too. Normally this done before installing solar panels or solar water heater. Because of your home's orientation, it faces WSW. Solar hot water will be over front roof. Ideally it should straddle over the two sides of the pitched roof for maximum solar harvesting which takes advantage of morning to evening sun. Mine was NNE hence that places the solar hot water at its most ideal SSW.

Natural tubular (runs in tubes) skylight differs from skylight or skydome. These two may just be a light admitting fixture i.e. transparent roof tiles or a dome that can be laid over the roof but without the light channeling tubes. Hence these also illuminates the roof space and brings in that heat. An existing forum thread discusses this. Here is an overview in concept.

Depending upon the light admitting brightness, kitchen 2x10", shared bathroom and downstairs toilet 10", stair wells 12-14", walk in wardrobe 10-12". Family hall 2x12". For kitchen, it will mounted from the wall but light gathering will be from the yard roof. Same with guest toilet. Here is one local contact. If you want, even the master esp the dark innermost part away from the window will benefit. See here for before and after examples. Note: smooth mirror tint tubes emit a greater fraction of light than creased wrinkled tubes like those use for cooker hoods.

Parquet: I'll get you a contact from a friend who's done it matte. Very nicely done. Only thing with parquet is scratches. Should be last before furnishing moves in. What would help is to survey it's condition in each room. Check with the other threads. Just ask around first and if still didn't like, go for your preferred choice. Also if not done, some install a vapour barrier kind of raised step between the bath and the bed rooms. This prevents wood rots and a host of problems that comes after. Oh and change the skirting to a 3" height/width type if you plan to use Ikea esp Billy book cases.

You might want to check if there's hot water piping in the bath which you might want to change to stainless steel if you're going solar.

Mechanical ventilation here refers to extractor fans either wall or ceiling mounted. These are cheap. In my place, that roof turbines sometimes draw lots of hot air in the afternoon that that ceiling extractor fan turns by itself without being turned on. In my opinion and experience, mechanical ventilation in bathrooms are necessary to wick excess moisture to the outside esp after hot showers. If doing roof insulation, never install ceiling venting port in bathrooms for hygiene reasons. Insist on this. Let bathroom be ventilated via wall mounted extractor fans.

Oh forgot about this but need to mention: two things that must be done.
1. Ceiling board - change wood board to gypsum board. If there's water stain from rain, roof tiles could be compromised ie crack or shifted out of alignment by wind. Also, is upstairs ceiling height is 9ft, I recommend not doing plaster ceiling for heat stratification (the distinct layering of air based on temperature from the bottom to the the ceiling and it's dynamic movement by heat convection) impact climate comfort. Below the minimum of 9', there's a trade off in room climate comfort as heat cannot dissipate easily and tends to accumulate at standing height. Sweetspot starts from 10'. 8.5' is actually not ideal. Also down lights ballast emit and accumulate heat into the plaster ceiling space which tends to radiate it downwards like an oven upper heating element. Unless roof insulation and bottom-top ventilation (ceiling to outside roof via turbine ventilator) is in place but even 8.5' is not ideal for heat stratification. I know so because my older condo was of that height without plaster and even on the low teenth floors without opening the balcony doors, it's very uncomfortable. If it feels so in a condo, what happens to a west facing landed with tile roof.

2. Incoming supply to tangki. Install membrane filter (for solar hot water and washing machine sake) after meter and after that route water pipe upwards to the roof space in front to tangki, tee off into tangki, the straight goes to the back into kitchen and backyard. Kitchen tap is terminating point. After 40 years you can't be sure how long the GI water supply pipe will last. Some burst in the porch giving rise to unseen leaks they only shows up in the water bill. Three neighbors did this. I learnt the hard way. I didn't do mine but two years after installing solar my master bath pipe sprung an unseen leak from a old terminated pipe at the porch pillar for gardening. The supply pipe still holding when I lived there but don't know for how long more.

Oh, the upper back room extension hurdle is more of by law (minimum distance set back for fire safety and drainage irrigation laws) and engineering in that order. It's easier to do so if you're in the other taman cos the by law is "relaxed". Things may have changed so I might be wrong but I'm happy if it's otherwise (ie not a hurdle). Good luck.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Nov 8 2015, 10:22 AM
halcyon27
post Nov 8 2015, 11:56 PM

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Some comments from the pix
QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
[attachmentid=5178561]
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The back top and bottom roof gutter is the first thing to check. Sludge deposits from bird droppings, wind blown leaves and dust from haze deposited from rain but not completely washed away. The gutter must incline in one direction towards the downpipe and there should be one on your end for each of them rather than rely on neighbour's as sludge and solids can only be carried so far.


Notice the dropped ceiling board from at the right top room. These like the rooms are plywood type which expands when wet. Probably caused by gutter overflow at that spot which overwhelmed the nail and caused water to flow out from there. Gives opportunity for birds to seek shelter temporarily but may not roost due to unsuitable afternoon climate and presence of predators.

Tip: install gypsum board and soffit vents which can be insect screened on the underside to increase roof space cross ventilation whilst keeping the bugs out. I've heard of ppl using cooker hood filter over that whilst reducing air flow reduces the amount of dust coming into roof space.


QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
[attachmentid=5178562]
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It's good to have your own firewall that separates your roof space and structure from your neighbors. The other Taman w mosque facing LDP has one house upper floor burnt down not only his own but his neighbour's roof. See if this is easy to do. Shared roof means one point compromised entry, all kena. Some reduce the risk by bricking up but the wood support is still shared with neighbor and gaps allow visitors access. Common visitors: cats, musang (said to be common in the older days), rats, squirrels. Look for signs of faeces. Mine had them esp on water tangki cover, perhaps warm at night hence the sleep or do business there. Roof insulation wouldn't work unless a separate firewall is raised on either side but that complicates severing the roof truss support to hold their own for your neighbors on either side. Roofing specialist advice needed here. An important aspect if going solar electric because you don't want rat climbing from the house down the road to scamper along and hello what's this and end up possibly chewing the inverter cable and electrocute itself and starting a fire.

QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
[attachmentid=5178564]
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An idea under your staircase: A storage cabinet on kitchen wall as deep as the stair steps or slightly out so heads don't bang into it.

QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
[attachmentid=5178565]
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Not sure if arch is removable. Needs to check with original plan. The master bedroom toilet soil pipe should run underneath the floor to the back before terminating at the inspection port for sewage. Verify first pic if one or two pipes run out from the external wall and down along the outside wall in the innermost car porch. If you're extending as planned the MBR over the porch, you have to build a faux pillar to hide these pipes which cannot be removed or repositioned unless you're leveling the dining and study the same level as living room.

Anecdote 1: one unit along road next to hospital: the soil pipe broke and sewerage smell seeped into living. The owner had to dig up the old GI soil waste pipe and replace with PVC. That pipe runs under the staircase so you can you guess how much ordeal they had to put through.

Anecdote 2: my old home have a neighbor down the road which spent 300k redoing the house leveling from living to reclaimed back yard to the same level. A lot of undergirding footing support to the foundations because of this. Didn't know why their reno stalled until we self invite after completion to busybody ooing aaing here there everywhere. We didn't see those but the neighbor related what he had done.

QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
[attachmentid=5178566]
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QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
[attachmentid=5178567]
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Tip: Kitchen cabinetry should be full height. You won't regret it. Learnt it from kitchen supplier fitting website and confirmed with main kitchen users of many homes. Those who do demonstrated practicality of confining all kitchenware within. Those who didn't, have their stuff spilling over into makeshift cabinetry all over the other spaces e.g. dining or utility. The latter respondents all said the same thing: not much kitchen stuff to begin with but overlooked the fact that kitchen is not just food storage but utensils and other storage accessories, rubbish bin, water dispensing unit, washing tools, cleaners, etc. These take space too.

Tip: Allocate 90-100CM for fridge width and 7ft for its height with headroom and side room for heat to dissipate. 13A point located at 6'3" height for easy access.


Idea: Light tubes installed on the wall space above the kitchen window facing the wet kitchen. Either two 10" would be placed else one 13" in the center. The wet kitchen roof is where the tubular light mounts.

Idea:Drying area over dry kitchen sink window
If retaining the sink, knock down the window and install a custom window casement about 3' 10" positioned from the pillar nearest back door. Fill up the rest of the gap with brick and tiles. Install 2 or 3 rows of Ikea Grundtal 120cm 3 rod open kitchen shelves one over the other. The lowest should clear the sink tap. Accessories like plate rack, cup rack, cutlery rack can be hung on the innermost bar but implies level wall support.

QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
[attachmentid=5178568]
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Traditional placement for WM which is not ideal for wet kitchen. Alternative placement is washing area.

QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
[attachmentid=5178569]
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Tip: Partition wash area from wet kitchen w framed glass casement sliding door. One side walled. Clear demarcation between kitchen and cleaning.

Tip: stainless steel insect netting over this area reduces insect infiltration esp those that fly in.

Tip: extend a metal bar across the bottom of the backlane door but very low just enough for water to course it's way out during washing. You shouldn't see light coming in as easily. The main idea is to prevent shrews or mice squeezing its way in. Insect screen the rest of the gaps.

QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
[attachmentid=5178571]
[attachmentid=5178572]
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The height of the upper floor ceiling is probably slightly over 9'. Floor to top of door frame or window frame should be 7'. Dropped ceiling board area hints at rain spots. Check room wall for rain stains.

Tip: Ceiling extractor fan at corner of each bedrooms speeds up cooling on nights where it feels hot in but very cool outside. If installing roof insulation, ensure turbine ventilators which should be correctly installed just under the ridge caps where two roof slopes meet with perforations over them to allow wicking of roof space air into the atmosphere through the turbines. Some model of extractor fans are more quiet.

QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
[attachmentid=5178570]
[attachmentid=5178573]
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Chances are water tangki hangs over stairwell intermediate landing (one before first floor landing). If not light tube could be near where the wall light over that spot.

Tip: ceiling extractor fan over landing outside MBR or next to wall light over intermediate landing if tangki is not over that.

Idea: Partition family area with glass and sliding door. This would enable 1-1.5HP AC over that family space.


Other tips: Check all toilet door frame and doors for wood rot.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Nov 9 2015, 10:53 AM
TSphoenixxx
post Nov 9 2015, 04:06 PM

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Seriously thanks alot sifu halcyon for all the tips... a lot of these I never considered, really really newbie to all these sleep.gif
halcyon27
post Nov 9 2015, 04:36 PM

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QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Nov 9 2015, 04:06 PM)
Seriously thanks alot sifu halcyon for all the tips... a lot of these I never considered, really really newbie to all these sleep.gif
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LOL. Bro, I used to live in the area. I know some of the problems which I faced but each area got issue unique to their location. You've to ask your neighbours regarding security, etc. Also drive around the Taman and see how others did their renovation and bodek sikit. wink.gif Be neighborly.

Btw, I've confirmed with the friend on the parquet. Before that it was dull like someone poured brown-red paint. The contractor sand down and lacquer clear but can see each strip in its original tone, some very light birch, pine or beech tone. Others like rosewood or oak. But perhaps all are from Merbau or Balau wood etc. Very lively and nice unlike what I know of the old parquet until like I want to retain it if I was still there in the old place.

Update: To give an idea, matte parquet looks like the fourth picture from top left and bottom right at this link. The glossiness not so obvious. This one is not the contact; just want to illustrate what it looks like.

[Update 21-Nov]
Here's the parquet close up so you'd only see the features. Last photo is low light without flash on staircase.
Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Nov 22 2015, 10:51 PM
TSphoenixxx
post Nov 12 2015, 08:54 AM

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What is the best solution for low ceiling at extension areas? Due to the slope of the roof... Anywhere I extend, the ceiling will be lower. Eg front master bedroom (the balcony area) and worse is the back room. The current ceiling already low. Less than 9 ft. The new ceiling gonna be maximum 8.5 ft.

Is there any cost effective way to eliminate / reduce this problem? Or is changing the roof structure / raising the roof the only way?

Otherwise might have to give up extending the back rooms because the extended area is quite huge... That big space with a claustrophobic ceiling height I feel not worth it.

halcyon27

This post has been edited by phoenixxx: Nov 12 2015, 05:53 PM
hibiki98
post Nov 12 2015, 08:59 AM

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dont need the kitchen to be dry or wet. lol. just make one kitchen and then that area make living room. and study area become another living room. if u need a study or work room. just design open a room. in future if u had more kid then that room can be useful too. move your study or work room stuff into your master room. lol
halcyon27
post Nov 13 2015, 07:48 PM

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QUOTE(hibiki98 @ Nov 12 2015, 08:59 AM)
dont need the kitchen to be dry or wet. lol. just make one kitchen and then that area make living room. and study area become another living room. if u need a study or work room. just design open a room. in future if u had more kid then that room can be useful too. move your study or work room stuff into your master room. lol
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The wet and dry kitchen leveled is a good idea to consider since that will allow a more spacious kitchen but it's up to the kitchen's primary user preference as not all buy into that. There's still the keep-wet-separate-from-dry school.

If doing, cost depends on either:
A. raising the back/wet up to the be level with the dry - less headroom in the back unless the backyard roof is raised to the same height
B. Lower dry kitchen level with wet - lower than dining/study; ingress egress issues and the unknown: does the guest toilet, dining and study needs to lower also, etc. Risk is whether there's extra foundational footwork and support needed and for that the knowledge of those who'd done this before may give better information before deciding.
C. lower one step for the dry kitchen and raise up one step for the wet.
All these needs to see what neighbours have done and ask around. First place to check is to take a walk along the back lane.

The extension besides the MBR across the void over the porch can potentially be a study area if so wished. Phoenix, your reclaiming the balcony could serve the purpose of a private study too.

BTW and very important, changing water tank is not an easy thing to do and perhaps this is the only occasion to add another 500l water tangki above this reclaimed area. Hence the structure should cater for the added weight. Also this will be an opportunity to lay new and reroute existing water supply piping to the new tangki as well as the existing one for the shared bath. The pipe should be external but routed upwards from the front structure rather then embedded in the floor. If touching the existing roof (due to laying insulation), there's a slim chance that a new higher capacity tangki can replace the older one. Roof specialists can advice on that and plumber on tangki.


halcyon27
post Nov 13 2015, 08:12 PM

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QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Nov 12 2015, 08:54 AM)
What is the best solution for low ceiling at extension areas? Due to the slope of the roof... Anywhere I extend, the ceiling will be lower. Eg front master bedroom (the balcony area) and worse is the back room. The current ceiling already low. Less than 9 ft. The new ceiling gonna be maximum 8.5 ft.

Is there any cost effective way to eliminate / reduce this problem? Or is changing the roof structure / raising the roof the only way?

Otherwise might have to give up extending the back rooms because the extended area is quite huge... That big space with a claustrophobic ceiling height I feel not worth it.

halcyon27
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Sounds like it but I've never done roof raising before. Engineer and architect might be able to sound out on feasibility of that idea as these touches structure. In FT, some places are allowed to add another storey ex the next Taman can see on LDP. Not sure about your area though. I think the end lot unit on your road did firewall, roof insulation, security windows, plastered ceiling but low. However their MBR ceiling very high perhaps due to removing ceiling board and they probably use durable wood or painted it dark color stain to preserve the roofing supports. They plaster up behind the insulation and have skylight. Lovely kitchen design though albeit cramped. Been there to view once. The unit diagonally opposite but facing main road same thing but nice theme.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Nov 13 2015, 08:18 PM
halcyon27
post Nov 14 2015, 12:51 AM

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phoenixx, check out this thread esp post #64. Get qualified advice if you're touching structure.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Nov 14 2015, 12:52 AM
halcyon27
post Nov 15 2015, 01:26 PM

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Check this house out in terms of the addition whose roof slopes perpendicularly to the original roof. Notice this owner's home either added or originally has a firewall (party wall) on the neighbours side to the right dividing their roof.
Attached Image
This could be an idea for the extension over the car porch as it solves at least two things:
1. Ideal placement for solar hot water which in your home this would give it NNE to SSW orientation. The sun path in this manner is ideal as the panel is shined on all day long. Edit: NNE means it faces your existing MBR. SSW is towards your neighbour to your right. Hence it slopes downwards facing your right hand side neighbour. Ensure the roof supports are spaced 2ft apart and can withstand the additional load from the solar water heater. Call up the manufacturer and ask.
2. The wall facing your MBR roof (from outside looking in) can install clerestory windows that will illuminate the room very good from the north all day long.

The challenge is building it high enough to give clearance over the neighbours roof plus the space inside it if accommodating a water tangki. The clerestory windows are just under the tangki.

Edit: another radical idea for ideal solar anything in the future is build a firewall/party wall dividing the roofs. If local council permits. Reroof using a shed or skillion roof. It starts high facing your neighbor to the left and slopes towards the right. Make it high enough so that you can add clerestory on either left (NNE) and right (SSW). This will bring in light without resorting to light tubes. It allows for new higher capacity tangki as well. If done in cascading terrace skillion, one side higher and the roof interrupted by another wall before the other lower roof half continues sloping, you could effectively collect rainwater in another tangki. Perhaps with this approach, it could effectively raise the ceiling height as well if structural engineering allows this design. Three tangkis envisaged. One over each bathroom and rainwater tangki over where the existing tangki used to sit.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Nov 15 2015, 08:31 PM
TSphoenixxx
post Nov 24 2015, 08:54 AM

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Currently getting approval / permit. Doing this concurrently while engaging contractors. Spoke to MBPJ, apparently I can't use their pelan setara (standard plans) as those can only be used if extending ground floor.

Since my extension involves balcony & 1st floor as well, I have to engage a draughtsman to draw up a proper plan.
Elven11
post Nov 30 2015, 01:21 AM

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QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Nov 24 2015, 08:54 AM)
Currently getting approval / permit. Doing this concurrently while engaging contractors. Spoke to MBPJ, apparently I can't use their pelan setara (standard plans) as those can only be used if extending ground floor.

Since my extension involves balcony & 1st floor as well, I have to engage a draughtsman to draw up a proper plan.
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Where do you stay bro? Are you based in KL? I am looking for contractor as well but mine is 22 x 70. My ideal renovation looks similar to yours. Mind to share you contacts?
TravyJoy
post Nov 30 2015, 02:11 AM

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hi.. you may want to consider this:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?act=ST&f...0#entry77580557
TSphoenixxx
post Nov 30 2015, 10:31 AM

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QUOTE(Elven11 @ Nov 30 2015, 01:21 AM)
Where do you stay bro? Are you based in KL? I am looking for contractor as well but mine is 22 x 70. My ideal renovation looks similar to yours. Mind to share you contacts?
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Bro
Based in Selangor. I've not selected a contractor yet. I'll PM you the contacts later this evening.
TSphoenixxx
post Dec 5 2015, 01:42 PM

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-Double post-

This post has been edited by phoenixxx: Dec 5 2015, 01:45 PM
TSphoenixxx
post Dec 5 2015, 01:44 PM

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A small distraction in the midst of planning. Went to Eubiq warehouse today, and spent an absurd amount of money just for plug & switches sleep.gif

Again the photo orientation is screwed eventhough I have the orientation right on the PC. More neck training

Eubiq track + 6 plugs + Bachman elevator

Attached Image


Eubiq track - currently using 6 plugs, but can fit up to 8. For computer area.

Attached Image

Bachman elevator - for kitchen island. 1 plug + 2 USB

Attached Image Attached Image

Total damage: RM1.2k doh.gif
Noregrets
post Dec 6 2015, 06:41 AM

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Have you got a "theme" for your house yet ?
I started my Reno with a theme first and take it from there.
It is easier to design once you have a theme in mind.
For eg whether you want a modern look or a minimalist look or traditional, hotel look, etc.
For eg if you want modern or minimalist, you would want to change the staircase railing to glass.
If you want traditional, you might use leave the wood banister and just revarnish.



Noregrets
post Dec 6 2015, 06:43 AM

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QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Dec 5 2015, 01:44 PM)
A small distraction in the midst of planning. Went to Eubiq warehouse today, and spent an absurd amount of money just for plug & switches sleep.gif

Again the photo orientation is screwed eventhough I have the orientation right on the PC. More neck training

Eubiq track + 6 plugs + Bachman elevator

Attached Image
Eubiq track - currently using 6 plugs, but can fit up to 8. For computer area.

Attached Image

Bachman elevator - for kitchen island. 1 plug + 2 USB

Attached Image Attached Image

Total damage: RM1.2k  doh.gif
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When you come to switches and power outlets, it will cost you even more.
Have a look at Schneider or Simone.
If you want smart switches, Schneider Neo looks good but very expensive.
TSphoenixxx
post Dec 6 2015, 09:17 AM

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QUOTE(Noregrets @ Dec 6 2015, 06:41 AM)
Have you got a "theme" for your house yet ?
I started my Reno with a theme first and take it from there.
It is easier to design once you have a theme in mind.
For eg whether you want a modern look or a minimalist look or traditional, hotel look, etc.
For eg if you want modern or minimalist, you would want to change the staircase railing to glass.
If you want traditional, you might use leave the wood banister and just revarnish.
*
Thx for the tips. Definitely want a modern design with wood elements. Some initial sample & layout from one of my con, will change more but the general feel is there I suppose.
- one of the bedrooms (2 / 3) will incorporate a study room + less bed (single maybe)
- downstairs foyer will remodel a bit to incorporate a general working area.

Appreciate any comments & critique on the layout. Any concerns, etc. Any better way to do it? This floor plan will otherwise be accepted, with minor modifications as mentioned above.

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This post has been edited by phoenixxx: Dec 6 2015, 10:30 AM

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