Some comments from the pix
QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
The back top and bottom roof gutter is the first thing to check. Sludge deposits from bird droppings, wind blown leaves and dust from haze deposited from rain but not completely washed away. The gutter must incline in one direction towards the downpipe and there should be one on your end for each of them rather than rely on neighbour's as sludge and solids can only be carried so far.
Notice the dropped ceiling board from at the right top room. These like the rooms are plywood type which expands when wet. Probably caused by gutter overflow at that spot which overwhelmed the nail and caused water to flow out from there. Gives opportunity for birds to seek shelter temporarily but may not roost due to unsuitable afternoon climate and presence of predators.
Tip: install gypsum board and
soffit vents which can be insect screened on the underside to increase roof space cross ventilation whilst keeping the bugs out. I've heard of ppl using cooker hood filter over that whilst reducing air flow reduces the amount of dust coming into roof space.
QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
It's good to have your own firewall that separates your roof space and structure from your neighbors. The other Taman w mosque facing LDP has one house upper floor burnt down not only his own but his neighbour's roof. See if this is easy to do. Shared roof means one point compromised entry, all kena. Some reduce the risk by bricking up but the wood support is still shared with neighbor and gaps allow visitors access. Common visitors: cats, musang (said to be common in the older days), rats, squirrels. Look for signs of faeces. Mine had them esp on water tangki cover, perhaps warm at night hence the sleep or do business there. Roof insulation wouldn't work unless a separate firewall is raised on either side but that complicates severing the roof truss support to hold their own for your neighbors on either side. Roofing specialist advice needed here. An important aspect if going solar electric because you don't want rat climbing from the house down the road to scamper along and hello what's this and end up possibly chewing the inverter cable and electrocute itself and starting a fire.
QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
An idea under your staircase: A storage cabinet on kitchen wall as deep as the stair steps or slightly out so heads don't bang into it.
QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
Not sure if arch is removable. Needs to check with original plan. The master bedroom toilet soil pipe should run underneath the floor to the back before terminating at the inspection port for sewage. Verify first pic if one or two pipes run out from the external wall and down along the outside wall in the innermost car porch. If you're extending as planned the MBR over the porch, you have to build a faux pillar to hide these pipes which cannot be removed or repositioned unless you're leveling the dining and study the same level as living room.
Anecdote 1: one unit along road next to hospital: the soil pipe broke and sewerage smell seeped into living. The owner had to dig up the old GI soil waste pipe and replace with PVC. That pipe runs under the staircase so you can you guess how much ordeal they had to put through.
Anecdote 2: my old home have a neighbor down the road which spent 300k redoing the house leveling from living to reclaimed back yard to the same level. A lot of undergirding footing support to the foundations because of this. Didn't know why their reno stalled until we self invite after completion to busybody ooing aaing here there everywhere. We didn't see those but the neighbor related what he had done.
QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
Tip: Kitchen cabinetry should be full height. You won't regret it. Learnt it from kitchen supplier fitting website and confirmed with main kitchen users of many homes. Those who do demonstrated practicality of confining all kitchenware within. Those who didn't, have their stuff spilling over into makeshift cabinetry all over the other spaces e.g. dining or utility. The latter respondents all said the same thing: not much kitchen stuff to begin with but overlooked the fact that kitchen is not just food storage but utensils and other storage accessories, rubbish bin, water dispensing unit, washing tools, cleaners, etc. These take space too.
Tip: Allocate 90-100CM for fridge width and 7ft for its height with headroom and side room for heat to dissipate. 13A point located at 6'3" height for easy access.
Idea: Light tubes installed on the wall space above the kitchen window facing the wet kitchen. Either two 10" would be placed else one 13" in the center. The wet kitchen roof is where the tubular light mounts.
Idea:Drying area over dry kitchen sink window
If retaining the sink, knock down the window and install a custom window casement about 3' 10" positioned from the pillar nearest back door. Fill up the rest of the gap with brick and tiles. Install 2 or 3 rows of Ikea Grundtal 120cm 3 rod open kitchen shelves one over the other. The lowest should clear the sink tap. Accessories like plate rack, cup rack, cutlery rack can be hung on the innermost bar but implies level wall support.
QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
Traditional placement for WM which is not ideal for wet kitchen. Alternative placement is washing area.
QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
Tip: Partition wash area from wet kitchen w framed glass casement sliding door. One side walled. Clear demarcation between kitchen and cleaning.
Tip: stainless steel insect netting over this area reduces insect infiltration esp those that fly in.
Tip: extend a metal bar across the bottom of the backlane door but very low just enough for water to course it's way out during washing. You shouldn't see light coming in as easily. The main idea is to prevent shrews or mice squeezing its way in. Insect screen the rest of the gaps.
QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
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The height of the upper floor ceiling is probably slightly over 9'. Floor to top of door frame or window frame should be 7'. Dropped ceiling board area hints at rain spots. Check room wall for rain stains.
Tip: Ceiling extractor fan at corner of each bedrooms speeds up cooling on nights where it feels hot in but very cool outside. If installing roof insulation, ensure turbine ventilators which should be correctly installed just under the ridge caps where two roof slopes meet with perforations over them to allow wicking of roof space air into the atmosphere through the turbines. Some model of extractor fans are more quiet.
QUOTE(phoenixxx @ Oct 24 2015, 07:08 PM)
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Chances are water tangki hangs over stairwell intermediate landing (one before first floor landing). If not light tube could be near where the wall light over that spot.
Tip: ceiling extractor fan over landing outside MBR or next to wall light over intermediate landing if tangki is not over that.
Idea: Partition family area with glass and sliding door. This would enable 1-1.5HP AC over that family space.
Other tips: Check all toilet door frame and doors for wood rot.
This post has been edited by halcyon27: Nov 9 2015, 10:53 AM