No worries bro.. Figure it out already.. Haha.. Someething small only.. As usual.. For spring i use soft all around.. Usually people use soft spring for the front with medium oil.. And medium spring for the rear with medium to hard oil..

Isn't it suppose to be the opposite way? Becoz weight transfer to front when drifting rite? I mean when u initiate the drift.. Correct me if I'm wrong.. Still trying to learn

This post has been edited by kayFX: Dec 11 2011, 10:12 PM

good day people, i have a problem.
my bodyshell is too short for my chassis.

the front wheel fits perfectly and can rotate freely but the rear wheel doesn't looks very proportinate, on the old E10 chassis it was perfect, this is an OTA R31(clone) chassis, I also had to remove the rear diffuser because its too huge, bodyshell is tamiya M3 something
edit, spoilered image coz too big.

This post has been edited by FrozerLaxegon: Dec 11 2011, 10:47 PM

U want the weight to transfer to the front so that the rear drift easily.. so u want the spring in front to be softer.. if the spring is hard, it will limit the weight transfer.. and might not let the rear to drift easily.. U want as much weight as possible to be in front when drifting.. if u have soft spring at the back the weight will be absorb before it will be transfer to the front.. i hate fizik.. anyway.. if im wrong.. im sure the sifu will correct me.. im still learning also.. BTW.. have u been to the track yet bro kayFX?

Not yet play at track.. Still need to fine tune my car.. Currently working on my suspension.. Doing some extensive reading about suspension guide..

regarding on what sprind to use on front/rear dampers are all depends on your chassis characteristic.

usually factory setting is the playable setting when out of box, so i suggest you can try out with factory setting first.

common setting usually have softer spring in front than rear, but that is depend on your liking and chassis characteristic, no such golden rule exists in RC drift. is all about depends on how you wan your car to be and set accordingly.

for beginner, i recommend you look for veteran and ask for help to set your car at the most playable level so you can learn the basic properly.

hi guys..
what the difference between drift and touring chassis?
i read somewhere touring chassis can do drift also..
..or am i misread??..

aduh.. rc smart really give me poison..

This post has been edited by Bangle Ring: Dec 13 2011, 01:50 AM

how good is TA05 GRT ver2 compared to Sakura Zero S chasis?

thinking to let go my 416 vantex and build a new one.

If I'm not mistaken both ta05 n Sakura s chassis are rear mount motor chassis, it's no difference than ur vantex 416 since all are falls under same category.

If u r looking for upgrade, get the chassis with front motor mount chassis. The performance differences are obvious.

TA05 GRT ver2 is a conversion kit.. need a TA05 to complete that if not mistaken.. and its front mount motor similar to VDF..

@bro ayiesz

Are u talking about the eagle racing TA05 conversion kit? that one i think is front motor.. and is design for drifitng. but then its a conversion kit. u need the original part from ta05 VDF.. if TA05 ver. II by tamiya is not meant for drift.. u have to do a lot of modification. if u want it to drift that is.. for touring is okay.. i would recommend go for street jam chassis, if u looking for a drift chassis.

---

Added on December 13, 2011, 1:28 pmBeat me to it..

This post has been edited by crash_99: Dec 13 2011, 01:28 PM

lol.. i got question about bearings.. how many is use in an RC and is ceramic bearing really worth it? i mean drifting is an aggressive style rite..

ok let say i already had a 9T brushless/esc/servo, just need to add new Rx/Tx (FS-GT3B is cheapest i can find) what would you recommend.

something like this?

http://www.mudah.my/Rc+street+jam+white+wo...ew-12684872.htm


or this one better?


chassis ta05 grt ver2(front motor)
http://malaysia-rc.com/index.php?topic=25160.0

This post has been edited by ayiesz: Dec 13 2011, 02:27 PM

the first option is a complete chassis without electronics.. the second chassis does not comes with the bulkhead, front and rear arm. does not have the steering set i think.. as it say only chassis. as far as i know eagle racing chassis for TA05 does not comes with all those think i list. so basically u need to add a lot more money into the chassis to make it complete.. i would say go for the first option.. but am not sure if that is a good price for that chassis.
try and ask the seller if the TA05 chassis comes with bulkhead, front and rear arms, suspension, ball bearing and what ever to make the chassis complete.

This post has been edited by crash_99: Dec 13 2011, 02:55 PM

here is another option for front motor chassis..



can get from here ------> RCSmart

the first option is the clone chassis of RC-ART WhiteWolf/crimson lightning.

there are 2 Drifters i know are using this chassis and won alot of tournament.

original chassis cost about 2.2-2.3k so RM899 is consider very cheap. imo this chassis has wide setting range so it is a very good chassis (the original 1 i mean)

the option is pretty obvious isn't it? get the full complete kit will save alot of your time n money unless you like to built your chassis part by part..

huhu.. my bearings question no reply yet..

Im saying this from my opinion, ceramic bearings are stronger and smoother compared to normal ones. This will give an advantage to high speed touring cars. As for drift I think normal bearings are good enough but you can go for ceramics if you want more spin on the wheels.

If you still want ceramics, you can get from here http://www.acerracing.com/Ceramic_Ball_Bearings-11-1.html

still can't make up my mind either the TA05 GRT or the streetjam.
price wise is not much different.

how to get extra turning angle on the steering?

and 8' C-HUB is what is this main function? do i really need this for drift?

@ayiesz,

go grab streetjam kit man, conversion kit just too much hassle. (well unless u have TA05 at first)

extra turning angle is all depends on the chassis design, if u wan extra angle, u might need to do some modifications on your chassis.

c-hub = caster angle, basically more chub angle give you more steering angle and more responsive in steering.