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Model Kits Gundam & Mecha modelling thread V37, Ver Revive

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heally82
post Oct 2 2015, 03:09 PM

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QUOTE(yijinchua @ Oct 2 2015, 02:56 PM)
Guys, mind telling me what's the difference between Non-grade 1/100 and MG 1/100? All i know is, older kits nid to glue, some need paint and a lot of details missing. Am i right? Did i miss anything?
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miss a critical thing, an inner frame.

also may be color separation too, which all in all contributes to the total parts count for mg will have more part than ng...
heally82
post Oct 2 2015, 05:00 PM

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QUOTE(yijinchua @ Oct 2 2015, 03:59 PM)
I currently still have an unbuilt RG Astray Red. Gonna build it 1st and see whether I think the extra features reli matter to me. biggrin.gif

And i like a longer build time. Feel more satisfied after completion smile.gif
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urge you really build the rg 1st, if you think it ok meaning that ng never will satisfy your needs

mg red astray kai is really an overall good red astray kit to start with throughout the red astray lineup... unless you only want the plain red astray instead of the tactical weapon attached, so there's a p bandai mg red astray (yes you can curse bandai for that, we all do)

QUOTE(jloi @ Oct 2 2015, 04:06 PM)
Exp sad.gif
Recently saw conversion resin kits for amatsu mina.
Hope it is not expensive
Get MG. Astray Red Frame Kai MG look sleeker and awesome smile.gif
The PG and NG look bulky on leg
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totally agree on you... pg is not so perfect in the end...
heally82
post Oct 2 2015, 05:27 PM

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QUOTE(jloi @ Oct 2 2015, 05:03 PM)
i think the bulky leg is more anime accurate if not wrong tongue.gif
Almost tempted to get the P-Bandai Red Frame but the price turn me off la
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hehe there's one hanging at mandarake for 6000yen with recent shitting rm value dont think its a wise choice...

QUOTE(mf_yamato @ Oct 2 2015, 05:22 PM)
buy redframe MG,
buy 3rd party astray backpack shield and weapon that china made...
save a whole lot more,
than supporting those p-bandai shietz

huhuhu
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well i think mr jloi wont be satisfied with the ori color separation of those china stuff plus he dont ab...
heally82
post Oct 2 2015, 09:01 PM

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QUOTE(jloi @ Oct 2 2015, 05:35 PM)
dont ab?
lol recently abit slow down in building.
Was customizing build strike + wing honoo
and yes i still learning ab tongue.gif
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Sorry my mistake should be very hard to ab....
heally82
post Oct 4 2015, 09:09 PM

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Watched the anime already seed they have learned the lesson story is simple to understand and good flow of the story rhythm too. So far so good for a pilot episode...
heally82
post Oct 6 2015, 09:55 AM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Oct 5 2015, 11:22 PM)
any quicker way to remove nub marks?

Just the SD Super Gundam mkII already took me 3.5 hours just to do so:

1.Remove parts from runners with cutter.
2.Remove remaining nubs from parts & scratch mold lines with hobby knife.
3.Sand nubs marks with 600 sand paper
4.Sand nub marks with 1000 sand paper
5.Wash every part

In the end some nub marks still not fully remove maybe i use 600 but if lower might just damage the parts.

If just doing 1 robot still ok but i try to do as many as i can so i can spray the same colors all at once since spraying separate session waste alot of time & paint.
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i cut the part from runners using conventional nippers and further trim them with single bladed nippers (usually its god hand but i used takumi nippers) and then file it with wave file which is equivalent to 800 or 1000 sandpaper for the fine side.

strongly recommend on the wave file, as for the nippers depends on user whether wanna use double edge tamiya nippers or single edge godhand

QUOTE(Reix @ Oct 6 2015, 08:05 AM)
I heard God hand and wave file can save you a lot of time.
Just heard only, not sure true or not.
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yeah been using wave file and never go back, all my 400 to 800 grade sandpaper is for modding use now, plus including the file stone i have purchased all eat dust now...
heally82
post Oct 6 2015, 11:29 AM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Oct 6 2015, 10:24 AM)
how long it takes to remove the nub with the file?

and how long usually it takes for you to finish sanding a SD kit?

do you need to polish with nail polisher since marks will be covered by primer.
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unsure bout others but hg took me around 30mins to 2 hours depends on how big and complex of the hg build

sd should be around just below 1 hour depends on which era of sd, older tends to be faster coz simpler
heally82
post Oct 6 2015, 03:45 PM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Oct 6 2015, 03:03 PM)
Assuming standard SD kit has 50 parts, each part has 3 nubs, so total is 150 nubs. Based on Gundam Generation F SDs.

If you can complete it within 1 hour, that means you can complete 1 nubs every 24 seconds, even at 30 seconds that is really quick.

we talking about cutting, trim, file x1.

assume it takes 3 seconds to cut 1 nub, you are left with 27 seconds to trim & file each nub. that's just fast.
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hehe i cut all parts with normal nippers in one go normally took me around 10mins for the last hg rick dias and i dont trim nubs i use my takumi nippers to remove all the nubs that would take me another 10mins but i think less than that. finally i file them with wave file which ends up around 30 mins.

and also older gen like the 90s musha bb shenshi has tremendously little parts so no issue building there...

guess mainly because i hatta do it with my kids still asleep, really scare they wake up and thats the end of my gunpla time...


QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Oct 6 2015, 03:15 PM)
heally is the char builder, 3 times the speed of normal builder laugh.gif
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hehe mainly my time were spent on modding and ab, so i really not care much bout the trim quality cz usually i need to touch up and sanding after prime them

This post has been edited by heally82: Oct 6 2015, 04:43 PM
heally82
post Oct 6 2015, 07:48 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Oct 6 2015, 07:34 PM)
i just realise there's 3 form of rx-78-2 in Gundam The Origin
I wonder which is the one that battle with Char's Zaku 1st encounter,
any manga reader here who can tell which is which?

1st form
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


2nd form
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


3rd form
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


I wonder will there be a ver.ka for MG, since GFF is featuring ver.ka design
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Well for whatever it is I'm sure there will be weapons sets or add ons that's p bandai... Looks kinda cool anyway...


QUOTE(Nawar @ Oct 6 2015, 07:42 PM)
looks very minor.. differences.. the small part on shoulder, pouldron n knee.. all looks like the same kit with extra part to attach or remove
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Hehe still we all fall for the same old bandai milking scheme...

heally82
post Oct 7 2015, 06:35 PM

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QUOTE(IsaacLiew52 @ Oct 7 2015, 05:48 PM)
Hi guys, any marker is suitable for akatsuki gold color??? been searching it for a long time. I did a silly mistake when building the shield and cause a little scratch on it. I need some marker to cover it, tried metallic gold become two tone after it dry. Pls give me some advise, thanks in advance.
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may be you can try fine sand or polish it 1st see whether can bring down the tone difference...
heally82
post Oct 8 2015, 12:25 AM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Oct 7 2015, 10:16 PM)
anyone familiar with Dioramas? wonder how they make all the sand/dust stick so they won't fall out? or they actually fall out?
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Not sure whether it's works for you or not but there's a dude in Plamo tsukurou episode 10 part2 stick some fake grass using just normal adhesive might work for fine sand as well...
heally82
post Oct 8 2015, 01:10 PM

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QUOTE(yijinchua @ Oct 8 2015, 12:44 PM)
Fellow sifus and veterans, im looking to buy my 1st airbrush set and I'm not sure what I should be looking at. People tell me the compressor is 25psi but I searched the model online and it says Working pressure 2~15PSI. Is this enough? :\ What is the minimum working/maximum PSI I should be finding? And can anyone recommend me a compressor model?
Thanks in advance. smile.gif
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for me 1.5bar is enough, you will only require higher pressure to do some higher end air brushing or finer metallic paint finish.

some japan made mini compressor even go lower than that.

just go for mini compressors if you are not sure air brushing suits you but for the long term investment go for conventional compressors with air tank for smoother steady pressure air brushing...


heally82
post Oct 8 2015, 01:34 PM

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QUOTE(yijinchua @ Oct 8 2015, 01:22 PM)
Thx for the response smile.gif Im thinking of going for the TK96 Mini air compressor. Any opinions on it?
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should be all right, so here are some info on compressors might bore u some how but useful when you choose compressor.

pressure always work inverse proportion with air flow, meaning higher air pressure cannot get high air flow for conventional design

so our case has to be average pressure optimal 0.6 to 1.5bar, as for air flow roughly 10l/min actually more than enough unless you're trying to use it to paint your car. so dont be fooled by some specs shown

long term consideration mini compressors usually either mini piston or majority are membrane diaphragm design, mine broken down recently and cant maintain pressure because of diaphragm teared, so dont believe motor spoiled crap coz usually motor will last rather longer than air your pumping areas.

so mini compressor might be cheap but bare in mind only accept them if they provided 1 year warranty (mine broken less than a year)

below are the pics for your references

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

heally82
post Oct 8 2015, 02:12 PM

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QUOTE(yijinchua @ Oct 8 2015, 01:50 PM)
wow... tis didnt bore me at all to be honest. A lot of good information ^^ Well, even though I would like to get a big compressor, there are 3 things restricting me from getting them.
1) Room space, my room now is jam packed there's no place for me to put such a hugh compressor in my room right now.
2) Budget, I'm currently a student and have no income other than allowances from my parents (not really that much) so can't reli spend so much. sad.gif
3) Interest, I have never ever airbrushed so I still don't know whether I would like it yet. So, spending so much on something that i'm still unsure of is kinda risky.
But thanks for the advice. Glad to hear that the TK96 would be ok. Otw to buy it now
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ohh then would be quite big problem for you, let me elaborate...

air brushing paints will have acrylic, enamel and lacquer, for acrylic might suitable for you coz no strong smell and basically less hazardous for the last 2 you might need some air ventilation going to avoid being screwed by your roomies and also some paint mask to avoid health issues.

the problem for acrylic is this, its quite expensive and come in small amount, might need others help to get cheaper source option like industrial grade acrylics like recently just found my replacement mgm top coat from a car paint supplier with many times cheaper.

also if you considering painting outdoor, aside from power source you also restricted by weather issues (even wind direction can cause nuisance)

so i might recommend you build a small air suction box (which we call it paint booth) from some small box with 4 to 5 inch computer fan and airway piping should be sufficient for you. below is a large version for your references:
Attached Image

try look around taobao which might get you lots of these parts cheaper, use middle party like buy2taobao if these parts cant support international shipments

to save money, diy and cheapskate china brand is the way to go...

heally82
post Oct 9 2015, 12:51 AM

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QUOTE(yijinchua @ Oct 8 2015, 10:34 PM)
thanks again for the noob-friendly advice smile.gif
But if I want to do mirror chrome/candy coat, I have to use Lacquet no matter what rite? Since acrylics aren't that strong.
Also, someone adviced me and said its better not to use the same airbrush for both acrylic and lacquer, instead get an airbrush for each. or else it'll spoil easily.
I'm planning on doing a spray booth also smile.gif with the materials u said, I think I can find cheap ones lying around.
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Actually that's not the case unless you have used epoxy type of top coat else the rest of the paint no matter acrylic or lacquer can be clean by soaking overnight, downside of doing that you might need to replace all the rubber o rings. But if you remain cleaning the airbrush everytime you change paint type or color you should be ok. General purpose thinner should be ok, I have been using all the while and it's cheap.

For the record, I purchase my mini compressor and air brush set for around rm180. You can skip the carrying bag, you can take mine if you want.
heally82
post Oct 9 2015, 01:22 PM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Oct 9 2015, 12:44 PM)
pic of your cheaper industrial grade acrylic to coat. comes with special thinner? price?
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It's industrial grade MGM top coat type paint, it's not acrylic but epoxy use for base coat or extra protection.
Attached Image
Also i bought my mini compressor from cheap china brand also motor runs perfect just the diaphragm understandably breaks after certain running cycles. All compressor will have to service no matter what over certain cycles of running.
Yes mini compressor will over heat due to lack of cooling fan unlike bigger compressor do.

There's certain people dot know the air brushes can be salvage by thinner soaking due to lack of care and proper cleaning, mainly it's clog of paint over some time use. It's crucial to know how to take apart your air brushes and clean them.

For starters better start with mini compressor with cheaper airbrush to get the hang of how air brush works. Unless you have spare cash to unload. So cheapest option is mini compressor with hd180 china made, I might be lucky coz no major breakdown until now.

This post has been edited by heally82: Oct 9 2015, 03:02 PM
heally82
post Oct 10 2015, 11:36 AM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Oct 9 2015, 06:37 PM)
i just wan Bandai to announced Char's Zaku The Origin for MG sad.gif
Planning to grab something to build this weekend
wonder what should i grab
a couple of HG grunts?  Or MG range around rm150ish?
since i guess it would be december already when RX-78-2 Origin reach here
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With your preference of nemesis pairing either 08th team gundam paired with Gouf custom, Alex gundam paired kampfer, my guts tell me that you won't like seed or bf line mecha.

Also all those kits quite old so should be rm150ish gp01 you can't consider coz gp02 hard to find and quite expensive.
heally82
post Oct 10 2015, 12:42 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Oct 10 2015, 12:00 PM)
actually i feel like getting Strike RM or Tallgeese EW
or gaera doga as suggested
anything will do
just wanna kill some spare time haha
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But all those should be higher that what you have budgeted, all very nice kits but hard to paired them...


heally82
post Oct 10 2015, 01:42 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Oct 10 2015, 12:51 PM)
Saw prices in gameraarena range between 130-160 for those mentioned. I like tallgeese for its design. But Yea it would be out of the league in term of parallel collection sad.gif
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Then get strike rm, can paired with aegis later plus always can add on sky grasper, aile, sword and cannon back pack.

Heck you can even buy grand slam for it.

Or better collect the complete seed boy band set.
heally82
post Oct 10 2015, 04:27 PM

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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Oct 10 2015, 03:01 PM)
Not a fans of most seed mech, use to like wings but the getting less interest too  biggrin.gif
maybe i should continue venture into UC line, but wonder what to get
the release of Stardust Memories BD put all the 0083 mech on hold for now
Origin probably will release zaku early 2016 hopefully
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Lucky the boy band concept doesn't last else we would be watching gundam west life, gundam learn to rock, gundam Big Bang or gundam g dragon...

Just finished my tryon and in the middle of brainstorming articulation improvement and my version of "shin dryon drei" design concept which involve portion edge sharpening and more tone level of black color separation...
Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image

No holding on the sword on the other end, hatta be like that coz the sword is jus too darn big camera can't get all of it!

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