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 Proton PrevĂ© V23, Livin la vida loca

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winners8
post Aug 7 2015, 08:55 AM

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QUOTE(bobby25 @ Aug 6 2015, 08:37 PM)
Guys ,
Quick question ,
Does the preve 's start /stop switch light ever go off or is is on all the time ?
I've locked my car , but the light on the button is on for 10 mins already
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There is a timer determined by the Advanced Body Control Module (ABCM). The white light will switch itself OFF after a set time which I think should be no more than 15 minutes, although I don't really timed it. It will also happen similarly to the light in the boot, if the boot is not closed.

winners8
post Aug 7 2015, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Aug 6 2015, 07:28 PM)
It's not an issue actually, it's the design of the transmission. Unlike other CVT car, you do not step hard on the accelerator from stand still, just a gentle step. Once over 2k rpm, then do as you like.
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LOL, agree with you. This CVT must be handled with a bit of "Loving Tender Care".

winners8
post Sep 2 2015, 08:13 AM

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QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Sep 1 2015, 03:05 PM)
I put both front and rear at 35psi, 3-4psi higher than recommendation by Proton. You can never know the conditions of the roads in Malaysia.
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Same for me, but it'll be a little more bumpy as compared to 30 p.s.i..
winners8
post Sep 2 2015, 08:17 AM

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QUOTE(SportyHandling @ Sep 1 2015, 03:24 PM)
From this experience, I would think that any major component replacement or upgrade may get the car into a worse state or condition instead of a better shape. Even if you have got a new component installed onto the car, ie. new gearbox or maybe new engine, it is not guaranteed that the condition of the car will improve. It may get considerably worse.

Even if there is warranty for certain parts, I would think it is a better bet that one does not encounter any problem with the car that may require a warranty claim on the part(s). It may just get your car into a poorer state with many frequent visits to troubleshoot the "after-effects" of the change.
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The whole problem is the mechanics in some of the SCs are not adequately trained to handle major repairs as compared to those in the assembly line. Inadequate and/or incorrect tools/equipment, as well as improper attitude are the other factors.

winners8
post Oct 7 2015, 09:24 AM

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Yesterday, I drove at 110km/h for the first time because my PREVE CFE's mileage has just clocked about 1,100km. The "woo-woo" sound from the CVT was very loud. At 100km/h and 120km/h, the "woo-woo" sound was lesser and bearable though.

It seems that this PUNCH CVT is really horrible. Will monitor the situation again before deciding if I'll need to complain to the SC.
winners8
post Oct 7 2015, 05:42 PM

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QUOTE(SportyHandling @ Oct 7 2015, 09:43 AM)
The woo woo sound only happens at low speed 0 to 40 km/h and when the car is stationary at 0 km/h, and it is loud to the point that you will know that something is really wrong with the car (in my case the gearbox).
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Why is there the "woo-woo" sound when the car is stationary at 0km/h? The CVT gearbox will be at its minimum stress and operation at 0km/h. I don't quite understand your case.

This post has been edited by winners8: Oct 7 2015, 05:42 PM
winners8
post Oct 8 2015, 08:15 AM

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QUOTE(quezora @ Oct 7 2015, 09:15 PM)
to sifus....
want to share my situation here....

my cfe is 1.5 year old already....i got this wooing sound....i went to one mechanic and take him for a ride with me....and he told me that the wooing sound is caused by the tyre bearing...then take my car to his workshop and check it....then he told me its not the tyre bearing that cause the wooing sound...he said the wooing sound comes from the tyre itself....because the tyre bulging and swelling a little bit...my car already clocked 48000 km....

is it possible that the wooing sound comes from the tyre....?...
the loudest woo sound is when driving at 65 to 70 km per hour....i tried shifting the gear to Neutral while driving and still can hear the wooo sound.....
does shifting to Neutral while driving makes the gearbox idle (not operating)... ?...
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If the wooing sound is from the tyre, it should be proportional to the speed of the vehicle. For my case, it gets softer at 120km/h than at 110km/h.

From my experience, it seems that the CVT gearbox is not totally disengaged when set to Neutral. I did try it whilst cruising down a slope at about 20-30km/h and I still see the engine rpm increasing proportionally with the speed of the vehicle, despite being in Neutral gear.
winners8
post Oct 9 2015, 08:50 AM

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QUOTE(mengsuan @ Oct 8 2015, 07:02 PM)
The primary pulley is always connected. Hence coasting with N and on-wheel balancing, can be hazardous for your gearbox. Poor lubrication but yet the internals are still moving fast.
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This I agree with you. I have tried to manually move the vehicle with engine OFF and at NEUTRAL gear by slowly rotating the front wheel. I could hear the mechanical "click click" sound during the slow movement, meaning the gearbox is still engaged to the front wheels.

winners8
post Nov 4 2015, 09:55 PM

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An Off-Topic discussion here, but for those who intend to upgrade their Head Unit, please be aware of the shop: MAX AUDIO ONLINE SDN BHD and their installer: MAX AUTOMART. They are both located in KL.

I had bought a DVD player with GPS from the former and installed by the latter as recommended by MAX AUDIO ONLINE SDN BHD as their appointed "Professional Installer".

I had paid RM1,500 for the set and another RM80 to the installer for the installation job. Later, I found out that another shop in Nilai: ELEVEN A AUTOMART SDN BHD, is selling the same thing for RM820, inclusive of installation charge. Also, the GUI and Firmware Version from ELEVEN A AUTOMART SDN BHD are even newer (later version) than the set from MAX AUDIO ONLINE SDN BHD.

Although I will accept the exorbitant charges which I had paid (for not doing my homework), my greatest grievance was that the installer had done a very bad job from the beginning. After the first installation job, I later found out that the 12V live wire was not connected and hence, the system's time and radio pre-sets are all erased when the ACC is switched OFF. Also, the wires of my front left tweeter had been wrongly connected to the rear right speaker. Finally, the view from my reverse camera was also flickering during operation whenever the brake pedal is depressed. This is the type of outcome from their so-called "Professional Installer".

I had to return to their installer the next morning to rectify all those problems. During this second trip, they had even broke the pivot pin on the dampener (to slow down the lowering effect) of my glove box. So, the dampener could not even be connected because of the broken pivot pin. They don't even have the courtesy to inform me, but had kept quiet about it. I only realized it when I had wanted to tidy up the wires behind the set by myself after 2 days. I was also very sure that the pivot pin was broken during the second trip because I had taken some photos of the same area during the initial (first) installation job and the pivot pin was intact and in good condition. Mind you, my vehicle is only 5 months old.

I'd also have some setting problems which I needed clarification, but the seller would push the responsibility to the installer and when I inquired to the installer, he promised to revert to me after their own testing, but eventually, I don't receive a reply from them even after a week, not even an SMS.

They had both given me the feeling of a really bad service and a big letdown I would say

This post has been edited by winners8: Nov 5 2015, 06:43 AM
winners8
post Nov 5 2015, 09:26 AM

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QUOTE(biggie @ Nov 5 2015, 08:50 AM)
I absolutely share the frustration with this audio installers. After my last was ruined due to so called professional jobs, I only install audio mod after the warranty. In the case of Nilai Eleven A, I sat with them for 4 hours for DVD installation in my Exora, and from my observation I will not let them touch my Preve as yet.

However on I can recommend the Nilai shop, its cheap, the installer know their job, but depends on time of day, just that you need to ensure that they are careful not to break anything. The support is good, I came by few time (it has been 2 yrs already) to update GPS Map (free), and other setting questions.
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I can't comment on the installer job for Nilai's ELEVEN A AUTOMART SDN BHD, but I have to admit that their staff are helpful and polite. One of them, Shah, had even offered to connect up onto his demo rack and showed me the display and function of the DVD player (to compare with my existing set) despite having told him that I had already installed 1 in my PROTON PREVE.

I believe if for other installers/sellers, most if not all, will not even be bothered to entertain you after learning that you have already installed and is no longer interested to make another purchase.

This post has been edited by winners8: Nov 5 2015, 09:33 AM
winners8
post Nov 6 2015, 08:22 AM

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QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Nov 5 2015, 06:54 PM)
Which model did you buy? In the past I always bought and sent to authorized SC to install a HU, although some SC did not offer that service.
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It's 1 of those unbranded model from Mudah. 4 months ago, I had already replaced the original BLAUPUNKT HU to a SANSUI HU, which is so-called "branded". Later, I found out that the SANSUI HU has 2 major problems: the PAPAGO volume is too soft and hardly audible unless I increase the main volume. Then, the radio's volume will become excessively loud and I fear it may damage the speakers. Also, the PAPAGO software is not stable and will always hang after several minutes of operation, especially when using in conjunction with the MP3 player. It's not the PAPAGO MicroSD card's problem because I had used the same MicroSD card on other players and it had worked fine. I suspect the SANSUI HU's RAM memory is insufficient or faulty RAM memory. I had already sent it back to the shop for repair and will see what's the outcome later.

The reasons why I changed the original BLAUPUNKT HU are because they don't have the socket to connect the rear view camera and also, the SD Card can only support up to 16GB whilst I would prefer to use a 32GB SD Card.

From my knowledge, the PROTON SC will never offer you alternative HU replacements because they don't want to be responsible for voiding the warranty. Even when I asked about installing the rear view camera on the original BLAUPUNKT HU, they also said they can't do it, but asked me to go to those car accessories shops myself and at my own risks. These 2 HU replacements had cost me near to RM3k already.... Sigh...

I'd really regretted not removing my iMAX HU from my ex-PROTON SAGA when I traded in for the current PROTON PREVE. That HU (also with PAPAGO GPS) was working well with no problem at all. The only disadvantage is that it doesn't have Equalizer setting, but then, cannot expect too much from a RM700 unit.

This post has been edited by winners8: Nov 6 2015, 08:43 AM
winners8
post Nov 27 2015, 09:44 AM

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QUOTE(gurrenlagann @ Nov 26 2015, 03:39 PM)
how to solve this? will this affect a/c?
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Have to remove the whole air-con vent's panel. There are 2 screws in front (at above) the speedometer which will need to be removed first before "prying" out the whole panel.

Alternatively, why don't just use a pair of pincers to carefully "grab" those sponges out? It'll be a lot easier this way.

Attached Image

This post has been edited by winners8: Nov 27 2015, 09:50 AM
winners8
post Nov 28 2015, 08:25 AM

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QUOTE(ChokenBako @ Nov 27 2015, 03:07 PM)
No. No change in setting has been made, ie all doors are to open or lock at the same time. It's just that when any of the 2 front doors is ajar, the car would not lock/arm and would not give out any alert on the matter either.
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Mine is also same like this. I will always ensure that the side mirrors are automatically folded to confirm the locking and arming of the vehicle.

winners8
post Nov 30 2015, 08:41 PM

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QUOTE(vincent818 @ Nov 30 2015, 07:48 PM)
5+2 year extended warranty
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Whilst on this topic, my PROTON PREVE is entitled to the above 7-year extended warranty, but I have not even receive the EWP Certificate from Multi-Purpose Insurance as yet. Any idea why?

winners8
post Dec 1 2015, 09:49 AM

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QUOTE(vincent818 @ Dec 1 2015, 09:04 AM)
accroding to what i know , there's no certificate by multi-purpose
all is in proton system , you can try to call wecare to verify
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I have even written to PROTON Wecare and they replied that the certificates will be sent out from September 2015. Until now I still don't receive it. Will write to them to check again when I'm free.

winners8
post Dec 5 2015, 07:08 AM

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QUOTE(xphr3ak @ Dec 4 2015, 02:55 PM)
Not sure that's due to the krek...krek...krek... sound when turning the steering eventhought I have replaced to new steering rack still same.

-Preve Premium 2015-
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Ha, my 2015 PREVE CFE also have that krek...krek...krek sound when turning the steering. I had also sprayed some high temperature lithium grease onto the steering's "universal joint", but to no avail. I thought of going to check with the SC but since you have already changed to a new steering rack and still the same, I think I'll just live with it. Actually, it's not very obvious and with the radio switched ON, most of the time, you'll not notice it.

As for the steering force, I think it's normal for the PROTON PREVE. Hydraulic power steering will definitely be heavier than those Electrical power steering type.

winners8
post Dec 7 2015, 08:05 AM

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QUOTE(ropaisoft @ Dec 6 2015, 05:35 PM)
front absorber top mount. change it.
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But the krek....krek....krek.... sound is coming from the steering column inside the car. There's no abnormal sound from the engine compartment nor from areas near the front absorber when turning the steering wheel.

winners8
post Dec 8 2015, 12:39 AM

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QUOTE(ropaisoft @ Dec 7 2015, 07:05 PM)
are you absolutely sure it coming from there?

sound happens at low speed, when parking etc, but disappear at higher speeds?
if yes, then the absorber top mount is very likely.

had it once, SC changed steering rack, doesn't solve it.
then SC changed top mount, problem solved.

also, take out the passenger side steering rack bush (c-shaped), add grease to the inside surface.
can also try removing the strut bar (4 screws) then put it back together.
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Sound happens when turning the steering wheel regardless of whether the vehicle is in motion or is at stationary. I suspect the sound is coming from the steering column inside the vehicle's cabin. The sound is definitely not from the engine compartment. Already verified on this by myself.

winners8
post Dec 13 2015, 07:07 AM

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QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Dec 13 2015, 05:30 AM)
Bullshit, they just want you to pay more.

Any Syntium will work fine with your car, up to your preference. You can challenge them to prove where it is stated that only Syntium 3000 is allowed. Call Proton HQ in front of them.

Go to different service center.
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My SC told me if use mineral oil, service interval is 5k km or 3 months, whichever is earlier. If use Syntium 3000 or higher (synthetic oil), service interval is 10k km or 6 months. So, in the end I use Syntium 3000.

winners8
post Dec 13 2015, 09:02 AM

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QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Dec 13 2015, 08:29 AM)
Syntium 800 (semi) can go 10k km, but 'recommended' to just go 5k km.
Syntium 1000, 3000, 5000, and 7000 are all full synthetic, they can go up to 15k (recommended 10k) with no actual problem.

SC would want to stick with the recommendation mileage because, more money. Now for cars still under warranty, you have to follow the recommendation set.

But there's not ever that for CFE we can only use Syn3000. That's just SC being unethical by misleading customers.
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Noted. Unfortunately, my SC only has Syntium 800, Syntium 3000, Syntium 5000 and SHELL Helix Ultra. So I chose Syntium 3000 because my usage is low and my mileage will not reach 10k km even after 6 months.

Anyway, I find the Syntium 3000 (5W/40) is good and not heavy, unlike those usual 20W/50 grade.


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