As per topic , how do we differentiate direct and looping points ? I've requested my electrician to add 8 points all direct from DB for my tv area but i only saw few wires there . Each direct point supposed to have 3 wires ?

Every point surely got 3 wires of LNE...

If the point is looped to another point then you see extra wires.

Why you want to have direct from DB for all 8 points?
TV appliances won't consumer a lot of electricity, needless to have single direct point from DB.

Looping will save you a lot of wire and tedious work for the wireman, as well as cost.

Whether to consider direct or loop is about the electricity consumption of particular point.

Looping in renovation means they are using the nearest plug point and pull the wire from there. Usually won't really post much hazard unless the plug point you will use for heating or cooling appliance.

By see how many wire, you not able to judge is direct or loop, becoz the concept is, direct is taking power direct from DB, you need at lease 3 wire for normal 13A power point, while loop is sharing power with the nearest power point, that also you will see 3 wire or 6 wire (if the wire still share to other point from this outlet)

But basically, you do not need 8 point ALL direct from DB, the best way is 1 point from DB, then all other 7 point share with that direct point will do, TV and other player not really consume lot of power

Yes it will do the job but i heard it can affect the reliability and even performance .
Should've Seek for more opinions earlier lol but what is done is done . For safety reason i dun mind paying extra , Just wanto knw how to diferentiate to avoid getting cheated . I dowan to pay direct DB charges just for looping only .

This post has been edited by telur: Jul 20 2015, 03:50 AM

Looping won't cause reliability or performance, as long as it is not over-used, or over the rated power/current of the wire.

If every point got direct wire, you see tons of wire being pulled over your place.

The important is to ensure power hungry point/equipment is not using looping method, but direct from DB, eg, heater or those need to use more than 8~10A one.

By switching off the individual circuit breaker normally like 10A/15A20A at the DB will roughly know which point being shared/looped around.

8 direct to TV woverkill lah, usually will do 2 at most 3 direct to TV. Why? because the 2nd and 3rd can be use as spare if the other failed, and some people prefer to split it for Amps, AVR and Woofer as these can sometime total up above 1000Watt.

Too many direct you will have headache if you want to put in a lighting isolation / surged protector. How do you protect all the equipment if all in difference plugs? And that also make the wall Ugly.

For me, each side of the wall, I have at least 2 powerpoints direct from DB will do.

This post has been edited by weikee: Jul 20 2015, 09:06 AM

I can understand you.
The work is done, you just want to make sure are they loop or direct, so that you can pay accordingly and do not get cheated. Am i right?
Direct means, every point is directly connected to your DB. Loop means only 1 line come out from the DB then further distribute from the 1st point to the rest of the points.
So what you need to do is, get your wire man explain to you how is the wiring of each point run. You should have 8 different wiring routes from your DB to your living hall.

It's fairly simple to test. Connect some power-insensitive device to each of the power point (i.e. those devices that won't give trouble if directly turned off - for instance, small fan or power adapter). Turn on all these devices.

Then, in the DB board, take out the circuit breaker for each of the newly installed points. If only one device switches off, then you have a direct connection. If multiple devices switches off, then you have a loop circuit.

This post has been edited by cwtien: Jul 20 2015, 11:04 AM

In that case, there is 2 way you can check, 1st is checking your own, off individual circuit at DB 1 by 1 to see is all 8 point are cut off separately? But sometime this 1 not really work becoz even they having diff wire from DB to TV, but they still using same circuit to giving power, so you may find out some plug are cut off together as well. If this happen, you can request your contractor to test the point for you, by removing the joining wire at DB and show you all the point had diff wire, but not looping some where.

some contractor companies will charge you the same for direct and looping..... just that they will determine which gets direct and which gets looped....
for my case, i pull one 4mm direct, then use eubiq track....
my idea for looping, never have it side by side..... if i want side by side, just use track or extension cords....

Doing the earth leakage will be more effective, since this is the most important check to be done before shifting in

Not some, most of them are doing this shit

first thing first, ur incoming is single phase or 3 phase. If single, loop is only option

secondly, ur main DB got any spare, there are limit for the numbers or ELCB to be installed, hence, loop is only option.

Thirdly, lopping is equivalent a extension port.

Remember, just dont overload it. There are always risk if loop.

Does hood needs direct point or can it ride on looping point?

This post has been edited by honkkydorry: Jul 20 2015, 04:32 PM

can, small current usage

double

This post has been edited by peri peri: Jul 20 2015, 04:41 PM

remember, cable size also plays an important part..... you can loop if you are using thicker cables.... all according you what you want..... with 4mm cable i can turn on 1 induction, 1 electric kettle and 1 oven toaster at the same time, roughly around 4-5 kW

How about fridge? Not sharing it with other appliances of course but the powerpoint is loop from the nearest power point. Is that ok or must it have its own direct point from the main distribution box?

better not, let it stand alone. looping with others like water heater or oven or microwave can cause uneven current distribution. fridge is meant for 7/24 operation. dont disturb it, so that it can serve u long

Basically for kitchen appliances, all shall be direct, not looping.
Fridge sure will be having 1 dedicated plug point, original can do.
Rice cooker, microwave oven can share 1 plug point but cannot operate 2 together, is not the plug point can't take it, is your extension plug can't.
Oven sure have to use its own.