Aircond selection based on power consumption.

Onedrive link, excel spreadsheet:
https://1drv.ms/x/s!AtoOl-yLHwuzjBJsjBkuUVtv3vNB
What was changed from previous
=====================
Updated reference purchasing price
Added Daikin model FTK10T
Added Hisense model HAC-__DJN
Added Hitachi model RAS-VX__CG
Added LG models
Added Midea model MSF-__CRN1
Added Mitsubishi Electric model MS-HK__VA
Added Panasonic model CS-PS__TKH, CS-PV__TKH, CS-S__TKH and CS-PV__SKH
Removed some Samsung models
Added Samsung model AR__MVFSBWKNME, AR__MVFHJWKNME, AR__KVSDBWKNME, AR__JRFLBWKNME
Removed some Sharp models
Added Sharp model AHX__UED, AHXP__UHD, AHA__UCD
Disclaimer: All data is harvested from respective manufacturers website, I am not responsible for any information accuracy in the spreadsheet provided.

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When you said maintain moisture level in room, meaning the aircond moisture removal should be as the same rate as the moisture being generated.
Well I am not sure what is the amount of moisture generated in your room, but I can tell you is that from all the Panasonic 1.0 HP aircond, the moisture removal are all the same when obtained from spec in website, at 1.6 L/h or 3.4 Pt/h.

If you want more moisture removal, go for higher HP aircond of the same brand and model.
Panasonic 1.5 HP at 2.1 L/h or 4.4 pt/h.
Panasonic 2.0 HP at 2.9 L/h or 6.1 pt/h

AC installer can advice. Might as well do for all AC you own when it's due for maintenance, ask him to check the pipe diameter for all. Just ensure you record it down so that when you shop, the replacement is suitable.

Piping can be used for smaller HP even if their pipe specification is smaller but never the other way round viz AC with larger pipe specification to fit on smaller pipes.

Can sell. Ask installer to do it for you or find second hand sellers in LYN. They are around.

For AC, cannot just advise like that as that's subjectively putting the cart before the horse. Start with these first...
1. Room dimension (LxWxH)
2. dwelling landed or condo?
2a. If landed, is it intermediate or corner and does roof has insulation?
2b. If condo, which floor? 1st, in between or top?
3. How big is window area in % of total frontage (all walls if condo where windows are installed)
3a. If landed, are there trees planted directly in the path where the sun hits ie how much shading does these trees provide?
4. bedroom facing where in compass point (all applicable points for condo).

With the info above, you'll know if 1hp sufficient or not and start narrowing down your options.

If your bedroom is in double story home upstairs with no insulation in the roof, 30% additional cooling is typically required even if the area seems to be sized for 1hp. Usually for AC, in this situation, SkyAire would not be desirable unless the room is precooled without any occupant inside first or used in combination of ceiling fan. Reliability should go for Daikin or Mitsubishi Electric or Mitsubishi Heavy Industries.

Buy from Jintex as they are competitive. AC unlike Genting or Kinabalu is based on condensation with moisture removed.

Nanoe is basically hydroxylization based purifying. The resulting effect is added moisture but not as much.

Either run at 27-28°C with 2-3 speed ceiling fan to bring about perceptible cooling of about 25-26°C. Moisture is removed but at a slower rate or if preferring colder - without resorting to investing in a humidifier - add a wide mouthed plastic tub like those use for washing clothes and fill it a quarter full with water. That compensates for moisture removed so the air doesn't feel too dry. This is the oldest trick which I've been told parents used for their young children to prevent their lungs from drying out too much.

Having moved back to condo, we're getting used to sleeping without AC as much as we can. The humidity is in the high 80s to 90s but the temperature can fall to 24-25°C. Only on oppressively hot nights do we turn it on.

No worries but hope you don't misunderstand that I'm not against nanoe or Plasmacluster or Samsung plasma (Splasma) or LG etc. They are truly beneficial esp when integrated in AC.

However, maintaining high humidity works cross purposes to how an AC works. There's a compromise needed. Hence in my home, if AC is turned on the house rule is no colder than 26°C and lightly dressed e.g.singlet and sleeping shorts and fleece blanket. Normally it would be 27°C AUTO with 2 speed ceiling fan which brings the humidity down to 65% and temperature 25°C owing to windchill. Everyone needs to drink at least two cups of water before they sleep. Colder than that is harmful long term.

My own preference is Sharp inverters with plasma cluster and self clean (mould prevention) and their upward air throw such was introduced in 2008-2009, way before Skyair entered the market. The newer models had long throw out 14m as of 2015.

Any recommendation have take a wider view that just AC hp.

Hence, all the questions I raised earlier should be the primary driver first to determine the cooling load in BTU/hr from which you then derive the AC's HP required.

I've lived both in landed and condo, some afternoon sun facing, some morning sun facing and am familiar with the seasonal variation of sunlight on the buildings over the year where I live.

Basically it's the compass points where the room is oriented that matters when calculating. Trees over the frontage of the room adds to solar shading. Insulation over the roof matters as it brings down the heat load factor. Living in the top floor of a condo matters if the roof is not covered ie bare concrete exposed to the elements. Facing W,SW,NW will increase heat load. Ground floor is more insulated than top floors typically but that depends if there's a garden (affords better ground heat insulation) or fully paved front yard (living room becomes an oven by 1pm if there's no awning), etc.

Don't rush into which model....just work out the factors affecting the room that needs cooling than based on that go for the features or requirements that matters. Good piping and installer handiwork matters and don't stinge on that and the AC will be operating well as long as they're reputable.

25°C is ok for me. One thing you need to be aware of is the choice of flooring matters. Marble/terrazo is cooler than wood than tiles. These affect perception of cooling also. Calcium carbonate in marble / terrace sequesters moisture and makes the room less humid and pleasant. To recreate that effect in a room, Venetian wall is an alternative while retaining original flooring.

Air flow mitigates by giving a sense of cooling but it's only one part but where the room faces weighs more. W,SW,NW facing rooms esp condo and if two or more walls faces that direction, God help the occupants without AC after a cloudless day. They will be baked through until 1am. Rooftop or landed corner worst as the heat doesn't dissipate until 3am esp if it's cloudy sky and no rain. Cloud cover at night has an albedo effect likened to a wool blanket in a hot humid day. Condo with adjacent condo blocks at those compass points may act as trees also hence adds to shading.

See this posts on piping here.

To calculate the cooling load for each room, see this post here.

Glad to help out.

One living used to be Megatronik or 18 electronics at least in SS2 before they became (or was acquired) by oneliving. I buy from there and Jintex as their prices are competitive.