Which is the model of R32?
So far seen on Daikin only , not too sure is it cheaper way or not.
Cause due to R410a will be shortage and price has been went up.

Since im planning to get 2 unit of 1.0HP would it make any sense to get 1 inverter and 1 non-inverter?
Would that defeat the purpose of having inverter units in the first place?

Any comment of GREE 1.0 HP non-inverter? 3 star power consumption making me hesitate.

Which is the model of R32?
So far seen on Daikin only , not too sure is it cheaper way or not.
Cause due to R410a will be shortage and price has been went up.

ME R32 is MS/MU-HN

What is the break even point/durations of using an inverter air conditioner to repay back using the TNB bill savings for the initial high cost of buying an inverter compare to use a non inverter air conditioner?

In other words, what is the ROI of an inverter air conditioner purchase?

What is the break even point/durations of using an inverter air conditioner to repay back using the TNB bill savings for the initial high cost of buying an inverter compare to use a non inverter air conditioner?

In other words, what is the ROI of an inverter air conditioner purchase?

Between a yrs for my case.

The reason I ask because some of my rooms only use max 5 hours per week, not sure it is valuable to buy an inverter compared to non inverter.

Yes, Doesn't matter the hour.

I thought the more the a/c being used, then the faster is the ROI?

My aircon service guy said panasonic non-inverter is good, but inverter type has more problems. Just to let u know

It depends if it's easy to isolate the zones such that each one can cool it down without being overtaxed. I'll prefer this approach too. If you think it might overtax then go for 1.5hp at the crucial one like bedroom. One easy way to partition is to use thick curtains.

Three things to consider:
1. Piping insulation. Individually sleeved per pipe. Use Inaba Denko's (JP) or Smartco's (KR) Paircoil. Sets you back a bit but guarantee will not develop leaks so long as installed correctly. Use 0.8" thickness for R410a which is also compatible with R32. The requirement is to guarantee AC runs at its rated power without which (all in one jacket/sleeve), the mixture causes the compressor to overwork (higher electricity consumption than rated) which can potentially damage the indoor unit cooling fins esp if the piping runs are in excess of 3m. This is evident when there's freezing on the AC cooling fins due to this caused by the compressor overworking to compensate for inadequate cooling capacity. You'll know when you hear the sudden tak tak sound of ice forming and bending the fins. Leaky pipes can also cause this over time. Quite common in old AC but not sure perhaps they've mitigated this now.

2. Piping size - it's ok to oversize such that in future, if you need to upsize, there's no need to hack and repipe. Bear in mind the gas / return / hot pipe should be equal or larger, never smaller than that of that AC model used. For example, 1.5HP on a 2HP pipe or 2HP on a 2.5/3HP pipe. If experience bears out that a 1HP or 1.5HP cooling is insufficient, you can in future swap that out and get a 2HP but without changing pipes.

3. Long air throw. If relying on a single, bear in mind that certain AC have what's called long throw feature like the Sharp inverter (14m even on a 1HP) or a Mitsubishi Electric Mr Slim. The Sharp has a ceiling throw mode for gentler cooling too.

Regarding the pipe size, the installer said to me that the developer of my new house use the 1.5hp pipe size, i bought the 1.0hp only, he mention that he will not to be responsible if anything happen to my aircond bcoz the size of pipe supply by developer is not match, i'm like shit, need to buy 1.5hp aircond.
Buying that panasonic sky series, so i already sudah kena la,huu

The bottom line on AC HP,  pipe diameter spec is the common factor that determines accommodating other models when changing.  It's common seeing or hearing stories where Panasonic 1.5HP non inverter replaced by a 2.0HP Daikin R22-inverter probably due to common pipe diameter. Even the Sharp 1.5hp inverter diameter is equivalent to that of a 2hp of other brands whereas most 1.0 and 1.5hp have common diameter. Same goes Mitsubishi Electric 2.0HP whose pipe size is that of other brands 2.5HP. Based on my installer's experience larger gas return pipes can accommodate smaller HP but never the way round ie smaller gas return pipes to accommodate larger HP. To accommodate, I take it that there are pipe reducing coupling adapters that facilitate this at the compressor and blower if smaller HP are used on larger pipes.

Generally it is okay to use a bigger copper pipe than manufacturer's requirement.
One thing to note is that pipe size requirements vary from one brand to another.
What the M&E consultant may do is to take the brand with the larger pipe size as a reference size for his project.
Therefore, the new house owner can install any of his preferred brand to the concealed piping.
However, additional refrigerant may need to be top up (especially for longer piping length) to maintain the design pressure of the system.

It is true that one should not use a smaller pipe size than recommended.
A smaller pipe size will introduce more pressure drop in the system.
This will cause a drop in the cooling performance. It may also cause other problems such as the premature failure of the compressor due to compressor oil failing to return to the compressor.