hahahahahaha..

Ori price and clone price much different mah?

Really? I didn't know it that. How about burning with lighter instead of dry burn? Think I better change it to be save.

thx bro, time to drop by to vapeshop & buy some wire

Yeah , that's why i'm afraid too . Nickel wire is different compared to Kanthal .

Lighter to burn i am not too sure , but previous thread people say can but i don't dare to , haha .

The box is the biggest giveaway. EHpro one the box write big big EHpro and nothing else. Tobaco one they don't use the Kayfun style box. They put their own box and the polycarb is matt one instead of clear like the original. Infinite one need experience to tell.


Good luck. They sell the UD coil rolls there. It's RM20 for 10m I think.


If you cannot wait, I can sell you mine first. I bought 3 sets for I also dunno why I bought 3 sets.

i'm having the one which has identical box, according to seller, he say is 1 to 1 clone, not sure is he crapping or not

Guys ...other than the vape shop at 1st floor in sg wang.....pls name a few shops which are in town centre ....thx

If this is the case, I think we narrow down to 2 clone makers. Either Infinite or Robotech.
For the price that you pay, it should be a Robotech.

Most of the clones are 1:1 in terms of size but the etching and engravings confirm cannot 1:1.

End of the day, you buy the technology of the original tank for the fraction of the price of the original. And that's all that matters.

thanks for the heads up

later go home still need to rebuild the whole thing, yest night dismantle already and no time to reassemble it back

Finally FT is getting some unique additions! https://www.fasttech.com/products/3099/1001...-510-drip-tip-5
Anyone ordered these yet?

So, I can imagine that panic mode hahaha


FT semua Ada

There are different type of smoke detectors as well. All doesn't work the same. So what does work on one might not work on another type

I kat hat yai now :hehe

You don't dry burn nickel cause usually the tc kicks in. If u tried on power mode there is chance risk on melting the nickel(due to low res) and screw ur base. (Never tried but I've been reading)

Just to add to your TC discussion, the Nickel coil should be at room temperature before calibrating with the TC mod. Hence the lack of need (or the possibility of melting the Nickel) to pulse the coils to get the even heating from inside out.

Funny story, when I started vaping I coiled using Nickel and was trying to figure out why it kept melting/shorting whenever I dry burn. I'm glad I didn't have to go to FT to purchase new hands!

hi all newbied ipv4 here. ..did any1 know where i can get sticker for my ipv

This post has been edited by slash_r0ck: Jun 8 2015, 06:50 PM

How much you bought it and where?
What's the package u got for the ipv4?

i bought it fullset rm460 on fb seller - subtank mini n 2 samsung battery

This post has been edited by slash_r0ck: Jun 8 2015, 07:02 PM

I lagi bodoh. Using dripper on power mode. Then change subtank on nickel forgot to change to tc mode. Then that deep lung burn crap inhale is omigawd. Wasted few ni200 occ

Remember when I first got M class playing with TC, I didn't know have to set resistance by holding the up and down button, and constantly got dry coil no liquid as it kick in very fast no matter how high I set the temperature. And even did 5-6 different wrap could but all failed. Only recently saw YouTube review. Lol. So any newbie out there playing TC make sure to lock your resistance at room temperature. Make sure u don't fire the coil first!

Yeah me too. Coz forgot which tank use nickel coil. I guess if started nickel all change to nickel is the best as there is no way to tell which is which unless u manually sticker label nickel or kanthal. Lol.

One thing I realize with TC is that cotton still will burn but not that extreme compared to Kanthal. The only good thing is it wouldn't have dry burnt hits. Since I switch to nickel I almost forgot the taste of dry hits. Hehe....